We had problems with the neighbors (okay, part of our yard was guilty too) letting English Ivy and Japanese Honeysuckle run rampant on the chainlink fence. This created rat runs all up and down the fences. We never noticed until they started eating our tomatoes. Which definety required action. We caught a lot at first, in the large snap traps with cheese (oftentimes just starting to spoil), but then the numbers went down. Since we were still seeing them, we got one of those little smoke bomb things and chucked it into the pile of concrete slabs where we thought they were living. Later when we cleaed up the pile there wasn't any evidence of rats, though. Soon after, our next door neighbor had problems with them in her basement stairwell and bushes. When she used the smoke bombs, they came back over here! AAgh! The traps have stopped working, but maybe we will try different baits now that I have some ideas. I wanted to share our recent finding, which is that Spurge (you may have heard of "Gopher Spurge") (Euphorbia is the genus, I believe) is very repellant to rats (this info. comes after we tried Wormwood (Artemisia) for the same reason--but found that the rats ate it!) The smell of the Euphorbia is supposed to be what does it...as a matter of fact it is said to be repellant to squirrels, as well. Many of the Euphorbias are shrub-like and so should be large enough to make a difference (hopefully). I will say that although we have no evidence of whether or not it is working yet, after bringing that plant home in the car---phew! Does it smell! Good luck to you all!

Mice and rats have not lived on earth for much longer the we have without knowing how to survive in some very hostile conditions. Traps are quite passive and require the animal to initiate contact. If the baited traps are not attracting the animal then it is finding food in easier to obtain places, or maybe does not like the selection offered. Mice and rats are omnivores and eat anything, so that you are finding droppings tells you that animal is finding ample food, somewhere. Time and patience are needed.

Great info story teller I'll certainly keep my mind open on the subject but after my experience I am too shy to reintroduce standing water ie bird baths or bird seeds. I do however provide plenty of fruiting shrubs and trees that the birds can enjoy and I hate to think about it but I am sure blueberries, crabapples, ilex berries are enjoyed by rodents as well. I suppose this is all a population management program with the ultimate goal of keeping the rodents out of my living and gardening area. Abi, You bring up a good point and the sad truth in all of this is there really is no one perfect solution. Without becoming too descriptive I will say the poison was the most effective to date. The rats after they ate the poison tended (not all of the time) to go back to their home and die, we were able to determine their location and dispose of them because of the very distinctive odor. The snap traps (which we stopped baiting) killed a number of birds and mice but no rats (maybe they are all gone). I did call the exterminator regarding secondary poisoning at the advice of a forum member, the response was a non scientific opinion so they mailed me to gov. specs of the bait and bait station which is as difficult to understand as my homeowners insurance. But if I am correct in my understanding of this, the amounts used in the bait stations to cause death to rats either by ingestion or skin contact cause no reaction in rabbits. Again there was no mention of secondary poisoning but being pet owners (Ollie our NYC city slicker kitty has arrive and is protecting the inside of our home)we are doing our best to be responsible. The bottom line however is rats are a real health threat that are difficult to get rid of once they have moved in. I am at the point now where talking to my neighbors has gotten nowhere and the county rat control agent will not approach them without a request from the board of health who I now feel compelled to petition. I really hate being put in this position but feel the need to get a handle on this before the cold weather comes. I ask with no malice, what would you do? kt

I have rentals from college students to retirees. I agree with lazygardens that hardwood in the kitchen is fine if you have a great finish and the right tenants (never college students). It appears it can take more abuse than the laminate in my rentals. Laminate tiles are cheap and quick too but can look worn in a few years (again, depending on the tenant). Tile flooring for me can take the most abuse and not show it. As someone previously said, determine your target rental group and set the kitchen tone with that. Check out a few other rental houses in the area. Now I only list on craigslist. 10 times more responses and better quality tenants than from the local paper. It's free and easy. You can see the other local rentals there too with pics. Since this is not a high end market laminate countgertops (Wilson Art at HD) is great and cheap. Get something with a few colors in it so you can't see cuts, etc. I have white cabinets in one apartment and I would never do that again. Yes, it's low end HD but it always looks dirty and worn (vs. darker or stained cabinets). Darker cabinets and appliances will make it look darker but go with light laminate flooring, light paint color, light countertops and good lighting and it will make a difference. And remember - don't go too crazy since this is a rental (and you're going to charge below market rent) Also, MA state law says you cannot take a security deposit more than one months's rent. Not sure of the laws in your state.