I've been growing LAMBERT CLOSSE for 4-5 years now, and have somewhat mixed feelings about it. It's a really good re-bloomer--which is nice--when the rest of the garden is taking a rest, I can usually count on LC to give me at least a few blooms. Bloom color is attractive--med. pink/light pink blend. Unfortunately, the bloom can look rather muddled at times--not "shapely" at all most of the time. However, if you put the rose in the background where it is not usually closely examined, the blooms still look quite attractive. So far, I'm having trouble with the overall shape of the bush. Either it is just simply a rather shapeless bush, or I haven't figured out the correct way to prune it in the spring. Right now it is suddenly putting out some rather long canes--maybe 7-8 ft long. Before that it seemed more like a 4-5 ft bush--or maybe my pruning kept it at that height. When I bought it, I did not think it was supposed to be a taller shrub--but maybe I was wrong. It's got good disease resistance and no hardiness problems here in my Zone 6. I have no plans to get rid of my LC, but am glad I moved it towards the back of my property where I most often enjoy it at a distance. Kate

I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess.

You've got a 180,000 mile truck that is begining to need front end parts, which is not unusual. If the left side is bad, can the right side be far behind? My vehicles from the 1980's through 1990's often needed ball joints every 100,000 miles or so. Major points to consider are motor, transmission, steering, and fuel mileage. If you have an automatic transmission, 180,000 mile is lot of use unless it was all highway. I've owned only one automatic tranny that went this far; It was in a Jeep Cherokee (190,000 miles and still ok) Commuting requires a lot of shifting and wear on the clutches. If you have a manual, the clutch and throwout bearings must be considered. Of course, don't forget the brakes. Is the body holing out, or is it still servicable? If $800 of work on the front suspension will get you one more year, that's pretty good and you'll get some use out of those new tires. However, I'd sure take a hard look at the joints and pins on the other side as well. I don't know your needs, but surely you can find a people hauler that gets better mileage. Car lots are full of new and 3 year old SUVs that are not selling. Sales are down on SUVs making it easier to bargain on a new one. A number of 3 year old SUVs are coming off lease and are being replaced with vehicles with better fuel mileage. Bargains may be found in these 3 yr olds. Dealers want to move these expired leasers off their lots.

My 9 year old stepdaughter doesn't refuse to DO her homework, but she has been 'forgetting' it or has flat out lied to me & said she didn't have any, when she hid it in her desk. So, in that way... she's not doing her homework. When I asked her why she lied (and I think the forgetting was also a lie & that she just left it in her desk so she didn't have to do it), she told me she didn't want to do it. So, I told her that I don't want to do some of the fun things she enjoys (like baking, helping me with dinner or most recently, carving pumpkins) if she isn't going to do the things we want her to do. It has only been a week and she's been caught in a few lies already... again. I personally think it works better to give it less attention or no attention and shrug your shoulders and say, "I guess you'd rather not watch tv with us, since you don't have your homework done." My husband used to spend half his evening frustrated beyond belief because SD would guess at the answers or write down the wrong answer that made absolutely no sense & DH would erase it, try to explain it & end up yelling at her out of frustration. One evening, he was running around, angry/frustrated looking for another eraser. He was all worked up and SD was calmly sitting on the edge of her bed, humming to herself. I grabbed DH aside & pointed out... if she isn't stressed out or upset over her work not being done, why are YOU? I walked into the room & told SD that daddy is NOT helping you with your work. When it's done correctly, the two of you can sit and play a game or watch TV until bedtime, but if you screw around until bedtime, you will take it back to school unfinished & I will call your teacher & tell her why it's not done. There were a couple of days that she took her homework back to school not done & I talked to the teacher. Her teacher said that it's explained in class & she should not need help, she should know what to do. She then lost her recess and did the work in class. After that, she would get it done correctly the first time.. sometimes with minor corrections, but she'd get it done & want to spend time with dad. While in counseling, she admitted she wasn't doing it right on purpose because it meant dad spent the majority of the evening focused just on her. She didn't seem to care that it was negative attention. He was too frazzled to realize what she was doing & after I pointed it out, he's better at recognizing it. Now, when she comes home and says she has no idea what to do, he knows she wasn't paying attention when the teacher was explaining it. She's had an ongoing problem with talking in class & not paying attention. It really helps to have good communication with the teacher.