That tear down isn't so bad, if you believe in blank stickers or taped on notes. Seriously. If you just tape a note to each screw, bundle like screws together and don't mind drawing crude schematics, it's not all that bad. I've been on a mission for some time, to not let guys get ripped off on that deal with Sears. But,,, the pictures weren't taken until most of the tear down was complete. They will show you the tranny disassembly process and that's the most important part. Tiller comes apart by 'section' (think factory assembly floor ) and you just need to type notes and small drawings of every single thing you take off. You'll start on all cables and those have to be drawn as to the correct re assembly, there's a particular 'grip clip' midway up the handle and it has a couple grated clamps, and is vital that it be put back where it started, so that's one you give special attention to, placing electrical tape on the cable for later hook up ( all this advice is for not, if you have a good owner's manual or service manual ) At the carb, same thing, firmly placed tape will save hours, again and again. Even the front weight 'axle' has a particular system of it's own, take a bolt off, draw it, tape drawing to any space of frame where it won't get scrapped off later. Everything comes off and though that seems daunting, it isn't. One thing at a time, drawing, then tape drawing. Cables are off. Whole handle comes off. Then, pull wheels, weights and engine, with the intervening pully cover and pully being of utmost importance, especially the 'key' so involved there, that it has to go back right. It's real easy if you draw as you go, even if you have a manual, I wouldn't do it any other way. So, look at that pully cover and pully real close. Keeper 'ring clip' has to go back, of course. I guess I'm just saying that unless you do it for a living, this is one where you better take intricate notes, or you'll have a pile of junk. With emphasis that if you do notes and tape them around, even drawing a decent bolt pattern for the main tranny housing, with the exact number of holes for exact number of bolts, you will find this a cakewalk. If you plan to 'remember things', take it to the scrap yard and buy a new one. When you're down to the tranny, with the axles sticking through, the real surprise is that everything stays in one place, since the central axles are fixed to one side of the tranny's housing, from inside. Lot of guys tried pounding them out, but it's not that way, you spread the housing apart and one side slides up the axles and you can raise it pretty high for visual. So, one side of the housing, up on wood blocks, so the few inches of axle extending out don't touch the table below, but rest a half inch or so above the table, with the housing resting on the blocks. So, you removed the main bolts and now you're going to spread the housing apart. Flat head screwdriver, fitted in the crease and you pry around the seam and it'll slide upward. What you're looking for is the 'gravity gear' ( my name for it, they used a lot of them on old farm equipment which I seem to live inside of). It's dead center below the actuating arm hook from your shift lever, where it meets the center top of the housing. You know, the arm that would bend if you tried to shift any harder. Sear's contractor used passable gasket but was too cheap to add a little RTV goop to finish the job. So, you won't need a new gasket, I tried not to tear it too much and just laid it back together later, with the new addition of a dollars worth of RTV on the rim. Point is, if you look at the machine before you take it apart, the thing sits so it creates a 'pool', directly above the internal shift mechanism, that 'low spot' is right above an internal sliding 'gravity gear' which of course, gives all forward, reverse and the rest. Guys broke bolts, bent steel rod arms, snapped handles, you name it. Understandable really, the directions tell a guy to 'adjust, adjust, adjust'. Okay, you're spreading the housing and you have notes taped everywhere and since it's a $600 plus machine, it's worth every cent, if not just principle alone. Your goal is the gravity gear and you won't miss it, since it will be what looks like a hopelessly rusted mass. It's not. But it's to be respected, since yes, you can remove it just by lifting it out. But don't. DRAW it. Draw it first and do not turn it upside down, don't turn it around, just be very careful of 'top' versus 'bottom'. Because it will and can, go back together wrong, it will reassemble upside down if you want it to. If you do that, you will 'bench test' it and it will work fine on the bench. It will shift, wheels will turn, you'll think you have it. You'll put it back together and fire it up, but standing upright now, it will be the same. I'll just say, that at this critical juncture, if top from bottom has gotten away from you, the only way to know is process of elimination, that is, risk it backwards and then tear the whole machine down again. You'll likely find red grease, rusty looking, just leave it, there's no internal hydraulics anyway and no internal pressure. I mean if you want to dig the grease out and change it fine, I just stirred mine up. It doesn't get heated to burn level, ever and I can't go dumping old still workable never heated grease out of the machines I repair, it's just too costly. The 'Gravity Gear'. It's rusted. I used an equal mix of WD 40 and Brake Fluid and some cheap rust loosener fluids you get at bargain stores. Soaked the thing for three days. Tapping, very lightly, several times a day. Guy could just order the gear, I suppose and save this step. After three days, it just decided to fall loose and yes it's real obvious once it starts to move, but it most certainly does. Then, you slide the center pin out and sand and sand and sand. Use light sand paper, be patient and once it's smooth as porcelain, you put it back in. If you aren't a patient type guy, just fork over the cash for a new gear. Because if you don't make it real smooth it will hang up and same problem, these type gears need to be very 'fluid', very smooth, Mine, though visibly pitted, smoothed out just fine and the tiller is brand new, runs and tills great. here is the links. http://tinypic.com/r/25ann09/5 [IMG]http://i41.tinypic.com/25ann09.jpg[/IMG] http://i41.tinypic.com/25ann09.jpg Here is a link that might be useful: tinypic tiller pictures.

My LG W/D set is only 2 years old but I really love it. I bought it because I liked the looks of it, has reversible door on the dryer and the adaptable control panel on dryer so it can by set next to each other. I have it stacked and the control panel now is on the bottom of the dryer so it is very comfortable to use. This was my main reason as I am short. I read reviews later and they were very good. Many people are happy w/the set too. I have other LG appliances, all without problems. I definitely buy another LG in future or I might consider Siemens. I personaly don't care for GE, I had good luck w/ Kenmore induction cooktop,but their DW turned out to be lemon, so for me LG won.

Update- Sorry for the lack of recent updates I have just wanted to forget about Sears for a while. I also did not see the response from Dianne above until now so did not contact her about my Sears experience, so not sure what could of be done differently. Thank you Dianne for your response. Well Sears did come out and pickup the appliances the next day about 10:30, so that went well. The manager at the store said they would be stored in their local warehouse in our city so they would not be sent back to the main warehouse in other city and have to be re-ordered again. We set up a date for them to be re-deliverered on March 29th to our home. I was happy with this agreement and though all was fine. The important part was that they would be here in the local warehouse and not be backordered........ On Friday I picked-up my mail and to my surprise was a check from Sears refunding our money!?!? What ?!?! Last I heard they would be delivered on the 29th. So I decided to stop in a Sears store closer than the original Sears store and ask what happened. They looked up our file and said that the last information in the system was our appliances were dropped off. It showed nothing about them being picked back up or the new delivery information. Nothing. If I decided to re-ordered them the earliest we would get them would be March 31st. They said to call the manager I dealt with at the other store, so I did. He then told me the local warehouse could not and did not store our appliances as agreed and they were shipped back to other city. He would get my salesman to redo our order and call me back right away within 30 mins (still have not received a call 2 days later). So then the local Sears store said they wanted to have my business, maybe my experience with them might be better, and unfortunately not many stores here sell the brand we wanted. All was well until I asked if they would take a check as the other Sears store did, they said no checks. I then offered to get a bank draft for them, once again they said no. They would accept only major credit cards or a Sears card. I said I do not want a Sears card and do not have a credit card I could put over $10,000 on. He said it was because of the possibility of check not clearing before we received the appliances....... me and the other salespeople explained the appliances would be delivered weeks after the check already cleared, he said no. I told him the other store took my check and he went on and on about how the other store does not follow policy all the time and how tired he is of it.......... I said it was quite obvious Sears did not want my money, one of the salesladies said yeah we're definitely not making this easy on you, and I walked out. So I went to another compeditors store and was able due to a new promotion save $1500 off my order compared Sears so I'm pretty excited!!! Plus the wall canopy vent fan we originally ordered was now discontinued and we are getting the fancier newer model cheaper, yay!!! Hopefully we will have a better experience this time, fingers are crossed, lol. Thanks for listening again, sorry to everyone else who has shared their bad Sears experiences and so happy for those who had good ones. :)

They are much safer in a stroller. Some people use those baby leashes, but that would be much harder with two of them running in different directions. I agree that they are too young to toilet train - and it's not like you could let them go to the bathroom unsupervised anyway, unless you wanted to fish toy trucks out of the toilet. Is there any reason to think that they may have any mild developmental or speech delays? Your town should have screenings for anyone at risk - and merely being a multiple would be considered at risk most places. The preschooler of someone in my town was able to go to a special needs/integrated preschool, and I think the basis for that was not a disability but rather because his father had died, leaving his wife with three kids under 4 and one on the way. I think the little boy was considered socially at risk. My daughter attended the same preschool, due to her language delays, and it was a good experience for her. Door-to-door transportation, in a van with car seats and seat belts, was provided.