These are not "shady" deals, but I think that all 3 favor the dealership, and not the auto owner. 1. Extend the warranty from 5 to 7 years for $1480 and get the money back if no claims. This is a free loan of $1480 to the dealer for 7 years and it probably does not cover much, maybe just the drive train. These parts are already warranteed for 5 years. What happens if the dealership changes hand, goes out of business, or re-incorporates before the 7 years is up? These days, auto dealerships are very fluid and a long term, fixed business arrangement for 7 years is more rare than new dealerships. Do you thnik you will own this vehicle for 7 years? What happens to your money if you replace this vehicle within 5 years? 2. Rust proofig for $848 or more option at $1248. The time to add rust proofing to a vehicle is when it is new and the surfaces are clean. This one is a maybe. Some sources say it is wasted money. It all depends on what is done. If it merely duplicates the coatings already placed by the manufacturer, it is not very helpful. It may offer some protection if you live on a gravel road where the undercarraige gets pelted with stones on a regular basis. If they add coatings to the interior of the doors, be careful here. Too much in the wrong place can gum up the workings of electric door locks; It can plug door drains. If you live in the "rust belt" where road salts are used extensively, it may some added value. This one is a judgement call. 3. Accident and health insurance. This is assurance (to the dealer) that you'll have cash to pay off the loan in case of debilitating accident or sickness to you. Very likely, it will be written to the effect that in case of accident or illiness, the car loan is the first item to be satisfied. If you are employed, have adequate health and life insurance, this is not needed. For a long trerm loan, say 5 years, the dealer (and loan agency) is very anxious to make sure that the loan covered.

A number of Dodge cars have had some form of automatic door locking feature since at least 1989. Usually, after a front door has been opened, all four door locks are activated upon passing through 15 mph. This doesn't hamper the front passengers since their doors will unlock upon moving the inside door handle, however, the rear passengers may find themselves locked in depending on the setting of the rear door child locks. Even when the child lock has not been set, the rear passengers may find that they have to manually move the lock button to the unlock position before the door handle will unlatch the door. There are many variations on this theme. For Dodges, there is a routine of on-off-on cycles executed through the ignition switch that can activate or de-activate the auto-locking feature. I suspect you vehicle also has a similar method that won't require a trip to the dealer. However, I have never de-activated this feature in my car since it does not cause an inconvenience and the procedure is not intuitive; 6 mo later, I won't remember the sequence and would have to look it up again. However, in your case, unlocking all doors upon key removal could get to be a nusiance. If you can't find the arm/disarm procedure in your 3rd party repair manual, you may be able to find it on-line at your local library.

Calm down, Sue. I hope you don't feel I was flaming you because I sure didn't mean to. I was saying I hated last minute customers when I was in the restaurant business so I don't go late. Even though I agreed with you, I still had some sympathy for the employees. The bottom line is you are right, and no one can dispute that even if their answers weren't quite as matteroffact as the simplicity of the subject. The sign said 8:30, so the door should not be locked until 8:30. To each their own in the way they do things. I don't arrive so late and others don't either, but many people do. Really not that big a deal. But, please don't let it all rile you like this. Not everyone agrees is all.

As long as you trim the shrubs so they're not scratching the car paint and/or limiting walking/parking area, they're a good idea. If you want a finished driveway right away, decide on the size and shape you want and contact a pro. Or spend a lot of time watching You Tube vids until you have a good idea what you're doing. There are things you can do do minimize your cost ... digging out the place to pour the concrete yourself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cttBwkR-FK0 If you dig yourself and end up creating a raised curb on the fence side with cap blocks outlining the driveway and soil you remove from the yard, put a barrier against the bottom of the fence and any sod you add beside the fence to guard against fence rust and erosion of the sod through the fence. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Suncast-Dig-In-40-Ft-Resin-Edging-Black-Plastic-Landscape-Edging-Roll/1000573709?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--lwn--google--lia--236--landscapefabricandlawnedging--1000573709-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sH1z7bH8AIVAY3ICh25lg2aEAQYASABEgKjovD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds If you decide to add gravel where you dug out the sod rather than pouring concrete), driving on the gravel will pack it down over time and you can make a point of driving over all of it and packing all of it down (not just one row of tracks), then add more gravel as you pack it down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cttBwkR-FK0