OK, back. Organic feedings are slower trickles of nitrogen (and other resources) that feed the lawn gently over time and improve the soil while you're doing it. They also encourage lots of worms (a good thing) and insects that eat the feeding (also a good thing). How much depends. It's hard to overdo it--I couldn't manage and I was slamming the soil--and I generally recommend the same number of feedings you'd do synthetically, just at slightly different times. Organics take a few weeks to work, so you have to anticipate what the grass will want a little more. That's actually very easy. For synthetics like Scott's, my general recommendation is late May, early September, the first of October, and when the grass ceases growth for the season, as long as that's after October 21st (if not, the October feeding is fine). For northeast OH, I'd expect that you'll be performing that last feeding in early November, but the date will vary a lot either way. For organics, early to mid May, mid August to early September, October first, and then winterize with a synthetic when growth stops (organics don't make good winterizers, they're too slow and don't decay in very cold weather fast enough). I use plain old soybean meal on my lawn at 15 pounds per thousand square feet. For you, that'll probably also be a good option. Strength of organics varies--soybean and cottonseed meal are at the top with around 45% protein, or the equivalent of 7% nitrogen. Alfalfa, corn, oats, and so on are much weaker and would require larger amounts to provide an equivalent feeding. That can actually be a good thing--to transform my soil, I used copious cracked corn as it didn't overdo the nitrogen but added a lot of organic matter to the soil. But for feeding, they're inferior. For alfalfa, you also shouldn't exceed 20 pounds per thousand three times a year due to the growth hormones in it, but that's another story.

My Dd did (does) the same thing.. ( biting herself) the best thing is to ignore it..i have analyzed the situation and if you ignore the behavior,they stop it.there is nothing else to do-they will stop. When he bites his sister-say NO!! and put him in his high chair or crib--he will get the picture. he is showing very common behavior for his age..my dd was biting her little friends and i would let her know very clearly..We do not bite--and she will go away from her friends for this behavior.-then has to make nice.

Do NOT let him get away with this. Do not allow it. My dog, when I was younger did this and we got bit a lot. He even did it with tennis balls. When we got another dog, the other died, I was older and every time she would eat, my hand would be in her bowl and I would move it away occasionally. I would also pick it up and then give it back to her after a minute. I was determined not to go through food aggression again! My dog wouldn't bite if you smacked her in the face with a chicken leg but prevention is the key. When you put the food down. Tell him to sit or lie down. Hold it above the floor, keeping eye contact, hold it there for a minute. When YOU'RE ready, put it down. Maybe pick it up a few times before he can get to it. Make sure you stand between him and the food. Block him for a while. Only let him eat when you decide it's okay. If he starts growling, step between him and the food. Tell him to drop it. Don't sound excited, just be very firm. You may need tough shoes or a garbage can lid. No stick or anything! Keep at it and it should stop. The dominant dogs in the pack eat first. AFTER they're done, then they move away. Even if a lower dog made the kill, the dominant dog will move in and take the kill. The insubordinates will move aside. Your dog isn't respectful of your dominance if he's challenging you. If this is his nature, then you just have to be persistent. The problem may stem from other situations. Does he get down from the couch when you say to? Does he beg even if you say no? Is he pulling on the leash? People may disagree on the importance of this but just think, what if your dog gets into some chocolate? How would you be able to yoink it out of his mouth? Teaching him to "drop it" is very important for this kind of purpose. If I don't know where my dog got something and don't know what it is, I tell her to drop it and some times she doesn't but I have no objections from her when I reach into her mouth to pull it out. Take the food away from him some times and give it back. Display your dominance. If he senses that you're a strong leader, than he'll realize he doesn't have a chance of pushing you aside. Animals pick on the weak. All these things need to be a constant practice so that he doesn't forget and it's not stressful for him.

I thought I'd write an update since a lot has happened since I posted just the other day. Studying Ellie's test results and everything online about it, the finger pointed directly at FIP. I'm guessing the "dry" variety since the doctor didn't see any fluid accumulation in Ellie. About the time I came to this sad conclusion, Anne-Marie read this post and emailed me directly, reminding me of the helpful Yahoo communities, of which they had an FIP group. Once there, I read an update by a woman named Karin whose kitty, Gracie, was diagnosed with dry FIP 26 months ago. She was enrolled in a Univ. of Tenn. study for a new drug, and today the kitty is free of FIP! Anyway, from her I got the contact information for the study director and the drug mfg. Finally, I called my vet who admitted he thought it was FIP. Since he knows it to be a death sentence, he hadn't wanted to leave me with no hope, so he just said FIP could be one of the reasons for her test results. I was initially upset that he could've told me this a month ago, but if he had, I'd have probably accepted his prognosis (since I've read enough about FIP in the past on this board) and not gone searching on my own, which led me to the drug, a polyprenyl immunostimulant (PI). Anyway, I've contacted the study leader and am trying to obtain the drug for my kitty. This evening, my vet contacted him also to see what was needed (by the way of further testing) to get her considered. It's a long-shot, I know--but it's the only one we have. My vet hadn't even heard of the study, much less the drug's potential. Heck, he obviously didn't even know much about FIP (which I guess is good--not many kitties around here having it hopefully). Here's something about it: "Recently, a new drug tested in three cats with the dry form of FIP demonstrated efficacy in prolonging life and alleviating signs.38 The drug, a polyprenyl immunostimulant, is an investigatory veterinary biologic that upregulates mRNA expression of T helper lymphocytes responsible for effective cell-mediated immunity. In this study, two cats with FIP were still alive two years after diagnosis, while one cat survived 14 months. Further studies are under way to assess this drug's potential for FIP treatment.38" So, there IS hope for some kitties.....and my prayers are that there is hope for Ellie, too. Tracey