Get an adapter to put on the washing machine hose that is male hose threads on both ends.

Thank you for the kind respones. "Per code there should be a line stop valve inside the house before the line drops into the vented crawl space. In winter the line stop is closed and the hose bibb is left open so that if any water should happen to leak past the line stop it could still drain out through the hose bibb. Care should be taken to insure that the horizontal line in the crawl space is properly supported by pipe hangers to insure it will maintain a downward pitch and not sag." Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Lazypup, your very knowledgable. I am young and inexperienced but trying to do the best i can. This is my Mom's home and she is a parapalegic, so I try to fix what I can for her and if I can't do it I make sure she don't get ripped off by repairmen since she can't even acess the areas the work is in. I don't even think the plumbing meets code. It's over a hundred year old house with many additions and jerry-rigged workmanship. Had to insulate the pipes to stop them from freezing a few winters ago, but the last 2 winters where very mild. Majority of the plumbing is under the house in the crawl space. The copper pipes, pvc, and ducting are all barely hanging to the floor joists with rusty wire and nails. I spent countless days with a full repirator breathing mask clean this crawl space out. It was filled with trash, car parts, old waste building materials, and a bunch of mold rotted fiberglass insulation. It was a real pain, especially consider I had to crawl through holes at points only 2' x 2' wide! I think the previous occupants used the crawl space as a free landfill. The only 2 ways to shut off the water is either at the street or in the crawl space where the main water line comes out of the ground vertically rising to the plumbing in the floor joists. There is a very old gate valve in this main line and I have to crawl through 2 different holes in the labryinth that is my crawl space to the deepest part to shut off the water which is a big hassel. Whereas the pipe to the faucet is more easily acessible with minimal crawling so it would be nice to have a shut off valve prior to the outside bib. I like the idea of ball valves, thanks Kisu. I should probably have the gate valve at the main water line replaced with a ball valve as well. I want to have an encapsulated crawl space eventually, but I got huge water issues with runoff, yard grade, gutters, downspouts, leaky faucet, ect. Until i take care of exterior water issues there is really no point to addressing water and moisture problems in the crawl space. So that is why the crawl space is vented for now, but I digress off topic. "First off, there is no such thing as a "Freeze Proof hose bibb". They do make "Frost proof hose bibbs" which are a type of hydrant valve where the actual valving action takes place inside the house in the heated space but even that would not work in this situation." Thanks for setting me straight Lazypup. The frost proof faucet wouldn't work in this situation because the faucet's valve could be comprimsed being at relativly the same temp as outside in winter. So i should just have a traditional sillock bib on the exterior and have a ball valve in the interior prior to the bib. When winter comes close the ball valve and open the hose bibe to let the water drain out inbetween the stop valve and hose bib. Insulate the water lines in the crawl space and hope for no subzero temps this winter. Maybe I could have all this work done by winter and have the crawl space enclosed, but it doesn't seem likely. Sorry about being longwinded but the added explaination may help you guys help me understand the best potential solution.

I got home safely yesterday about 1:30 and promptly took a nap! I'm still unpacking and sorting through things. Thanks to Jennifer, Beverly, Tim, Jim and everyone who helped to make this retreat such a pleasant experience. There are some wonderful folks on the Cheerio staff who always see that our stay is carefree and free of problems as is possible. It is so easy for me to go to our retreat, but I know other campers here have to make more of an effort to attend and I am so glad that they manage to make it year after year. So, I'm off to work today, but I can tell you, I'd much rather be having my early morning coffee in the quiet of the dining hall at Cheerio right now! Teresa

I'm sharing what I e-mailed to Beverly with the rest who may be interested. If someone finds the perfect blend, let me know! The recipe that I found is in RecipeLand.com. It is under the title Portuguese Corn Bread. When I followed the recipe at this site, the dough seemed way too thick for my machine so when I heard how the machine was struggling to knead the dough, I added an egg, a little milk (maybe 3 Tablespoons) and a good squirt of honey to what was listed. The consistency turned out fine, but I think what we had at camp was a little sweeter. Next time I try it I am going to add more sugar (or more honey and sugar) and possibly decrease the amount of cornmeal a bit and increase the amount of bread flour a little. To me this recipe seemed to taste a bit more strongly of the cornmeal. It seemed like a camp there was the yellow coloring, but not such an obvious flavor of cornmeal. Anyway, I think anyone would enjoy it even the way mine turned out... just trying to get it to replicate the one at camp a bit better. Oh, I set my bread machine for the small loaf and regular setting. Not sure that will be the same for yours. Also, my bread machine does not make a loaf of bread in one hour like the instructions read. It takes well over 2 hours in my machine. I guess you just need to adapt certain things to your own bread maker. If I hit on the perfect combination, I will let you know and everyone else do the same for me! Jeanne