Kurt, I apologize for the extreme lateness of my reply. Seems my junk mail filter is a touch overzealous, but it's great that you're getting other feedback on this too. So there were two things that really made the biggest difference on keeping the blue flame heater alive at night in the sealed gh. One was the incoming pipe from the outside, and the other was the sealing off of the rest of the air inlets on the heater. As I dig through my photo archive here… I guess I can start at the beginning… https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/P1010008.JPG 8x16, mostly double layer plastic hoop house. Note the thing jutting out to the right of the door, attached to the inside wood brace. That's the dryer vent cover. Up close: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/P1010007.JPG Inside there is the flap for one-way airflow. This is really important because you just don't want warm air being blown out through the sidewall. The lower you can mount the vent, the better, to take advantage of natural convection currents. On the inside: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/P1010006.JPG The fan is there to shove the heat down the length of the gh. Note how the piece of air register vent metal is attached [and reasonably well sealed] to the heater. I also pulled the thermostat bulb out from the heater housing so it would be more exposed to the greenhouse air… which helped better regulate temps. Skipping ahead a couple revisions here: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/PICT0031.jpeg Better sealed. And time-warping again to a subsequent revision: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/PICT0029.jpeg Note how black duct tape takes on a decorative and functional role around the front… completely obscuring the holes. The top vents stay open, as those actually have nothing to do with combustion air. That's where the heater's internal fan hangs out and does a pitiful job of blowing air around. I don't bother with it. My original version of my greenhouse was REALLY heat lossy, as I had to cut too many corners for fiscal reasons. Ended up paying for that with the loss of most of what I started that first year: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/P1010012.JPG It was nice for awhile at least… :) The plastic was contractor grade… not UV treated. About a year later, it finally gave up the ghost… life got in the way… and I had to effectively abandon ship. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/100_0106.jpeg But the durable parts got a second life… https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/PICT0002.jpeg Slightly smaller, but built smarter. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/PICT0019.jpeg Note the insulated north and west walls. Still double layer plastic… still contractor grade, but much easier to replace given the size. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/PICT0024.jpeg And there were much happier plants. Also got some work done in there - hooray for wifi! https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/PICT0022.JPG Sadly, after about a year I moved out from this location, and the gh was dismantled yet again. The heater and a few other items will be making the jump to a new greenhouse I am designing for this year. This one's going to actually have a PLAN first, and will be using a whole bunch of windows that we replaced in our house last year. The heater will live on… It's in the basement, just waiting for me to fire it back up again! :) https://dl.dropbox.com/u/374870/GardenWeb%20Post%20Pics/PICT0021.jpeg Hope this helps a little. I've recently made some new friends in the area and will be helping them to put together their first hoop house. Between my plans - where I know for sure I am over engineering things simply because I don't know any better - and the plans my new friends have... I hope to be up to my eyeballs in experience by the end of the year! Best of luck - and drop me a line if you have any questions. I promise to not let your email end up in my spam bucket. Oh, one thing - I don't have a clue how GardenWeb lets you reply to an email that you send thru GardenWeb... there doesn't seem to be a 'GardenWeb Inbox' or anything like that... so while I got your email [eventually] I could only respond by doing a post. *shrug*

That might be true, on the vibration. This engine is 24 years old lol; it's still running strong when I can keep everything firmly connected. I HAVE had issues with the engine mount bolts coming loose and have to tighten them up regularly. Discovered when we inherited the tractor from hubby's grandma that the engine was being held to the frame with only three of four bolts, and those just regular bolts, not the OEM engine bolts, if it makes any difference. Got four OEM B&S engine bolts on eBay, and the lock washer that was supposed to go on one of them, but that one somehow came loose and fell out someplace. So back to a regular bolt in that hole. But I periodically tighten those bolts because they do seem to work loose; there is definitely some vibration going on but don't know if it's related to the PTO or not. No problems engaging or disengaging; no unusual vibration. So probably a good case for the carb bolts working loose; once they loosened (before I discovered the problem with them and the engine mount bolts) maybe they started wearing on the bolt hole threads??? Anyway, back to current problem. The bottom screw on the carb mount still can be tightened I think, but the muffler shield on top of the muffler directly below the carb is in the way making it REALLY difficult to access or pull the bolt; you can barely work a screwdriver in there to turn it and you have to bend the back edge of the shield down to do that. I think I need to use Locktite on both bolts though. I tried re-doing the Locktite on the top bolt and tightening the bottom one, and it held for all of about 5-10 minutes of running. After that I ended up bungee-cording the air cleaner to the engine to hold it against the engine block just to finish mowing, but by the time I was done both bolts were loose again. The carb mounts to the left side of the engine, btw. I can link you to a diagram if you like. (see below) I used the same tube of locktite I had from three years ago (still pretty liquid) but maybe it was no good? It was the removable type of Locktite and I am wondering if I should try something with a little more hold? Would JB Weld be better? I noticed it did grip the bolt in the hole better once it began to set but was afraid to tighten it down too much; just turned it till it felt like it was catching a bit and then let it set. Otherwise the bolt would just spin in the hole. I have gotten some more OEM bolts to try new ones but they are shorter than the bolt I used last; last time I just used an ordinary bolt that was a little longer than the original, and it did the trick, but this time I used the same longer bolt and it let go, after applying Locktite, tightening as best I could, and letting it cure 24 hrs before running. Should I replace the carb mount gasket again too? Seems to be ok but I haven't pulled it; I replaced it last go-around. The mower starts and runs just fine if I can just keep the darn carb on the engine! Here is the link showing the carb and air cleaner assembly for my B&S engine, no. 280707-0411-02. If you look at the carb bottom left, you can see the attachment point (intake??) you can also see the bracket I was referring to (no. 662 in the chart). Just a strip of metal that attaches to the little box with the choke linkage on it. Doesn't really support the carb-to-engine connection; the whole unit including aircleaner and bracket moves, I think. It's screwed down pretty tightly regardless. Carb and aircleaner assembly B & S 280707-0411-02 Thanks for any suggestions or advice!

I would put in some more friendly bedding. I put in some organic home made compost with the news paper and card baord. THey really like old wet cardbaord. having some soil in there helps. Where they came from probably had compost, soil or at least worm castings all over, so the new moist news print might seem like a foriegn place to them. you could put soil or compost in just half of your worm bin and see if they like it. Egg shells crushed up very fine and boil some leaves and put them in there too. News paper or any thing natural is hard to break down with out any soil in it or with out much worm castings in there. Once the soil is mixed in with paper, cardbaord or leaves ist will start to break down and end up as food stuff for the creatures in the bin and the worms too. The creatures are bacteria and stuff we cannot see. Newly wet news print is not food instantly, it is only a place to hide for now. BUt in time it will break down and get slimey or decompose and become food. Good luck BIll C

Good point baymee, I'll have to contemplate that one but also check to see if the draft is in fact adjusted correctly. Mark, thanx for that chart, thats really helpfull, I'm printing that as we speak. You work in a northern climate too as I recall. You probably see the same thing all the time too, people blocking off their combustion air vents because of the cold air coming in and the fear of freezing pipes. Thats why I think the "fan in a can" is such a good idea. We seemed to have comandeered this "Beckett burner won't stay running" post, but I believe we've all told him all he has to know to make a decision on what to do.