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jackierooke
15 years ago
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jackierooke
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Plumerias and the garden of phosphorus-intolerant plants
Comments (1)Diana, I cannot see a problem with the planting. Because of the enormous amount of misinformation that is published about the extra-ordinary need of phosphate for plumeria blooms, which in reality is horticulturaly incorrect you could feed quite easily with many low phosphate formulas commercially available to satisfy the needs for your entire garden including plumeria. When plumeria are growing naturally in the ground such as Hawaii they continue to flower profusely without the "High Middle Number" marketing baloney. We were growing plumeria way before the "high middle number" fertilizer was ever thought of. We have had no lack of bloom issues in close to forty years not feeding "high middle number" fertilizers. Yes you can only foliar/leaf feed your plumeria and they will survive and prosper. A. L. Labs Canada has done many studies on this very subject and published very informative Tech Bulletins: http://www.alcanada.com/techs/tech_leafVsFoliar.html http://www.alcanada.com/techs/tech_WhyFoliar.html We have found these articles which are horticulturaly correct very important to the commercial grower and the hobbyist. We have permission from A. L. Labs Canada to reprint these articles on our websites. Jack...See MorePlumerias and the garden of phosphorus-intolerant plants
Comments (7)Diana, Not knowing how long your plants have had time to establish themselves I will say this. Most plants of the type you are planting need at least a season to become acclimated to their new environment to flourish. Root development is a big part of the adjustment and phosphate (P) is one of the principle elements for root development. Root development will come with a well balance feeding program. And another important item to consider is that your "Drought Tolerant" plants will not be drought tolerant until they become well established. I would use a very mild dose of a low phosphate (P) continuous liquid feed program adding a 12% Humic Acid and Seaweed Extract included in the regimen. In addition, I will make this a very strong point. The addition of a Mycorrizae Inoculant Product is essential to your garden for the best establishment. This product will enhance the intake of moisture and nutrients more efficiently. The following is a brief explanation of Mycorrizae: "Most plant species form a symbiosis (mutually advantageous living arrangement) with beneficial fungi. The roots are colonized by the fungus, which also ramifies through the soil. The combination of root and fungus is called mycorrhiza (Mycor = fungus Rhiza = root). Mycorrhiza is considered such a fundamental part of the plant that most species could not survive in nature without it." My personal experiences with all the above has been highly successful. I believe that many of the drought tolerant apocynaceae plants such as Adenium, Pachypodium and Plumeria can be an important addition to the drought tolerant garden. They bring important structure, character and flowers to a sometimes boring garden. Jack http://cropsoil.psu.edu/sylvia/mycorrhiza.htm...See MoreReplacing tiles
Comments (4)Tiles can be replaced without doing plaster. There will likely be a thin line between the new tile and old plaster where the two meet. The plaster finish is typically undercut and chipped an inch or so. When the tile guys try to match the undercut plaster, being cementacious, the different ages and likely batch numbers of the product used will likely cause a slightly different tint or hue there. The pool, when tile is replaced, is usually fully drained. When tile is removed, its going to drop to the bottom. To get the old tiles, grout and thin set out of a partially full pool, is a ponderous and time consuming process. It is much easier to remove the old tile, clean up, and apply the new tile when you are standing in the pool. It is possible/likely the old tile surface was poorly prepped and grouted. Water got behind it and it broke down the thin set's bond. It is possible that the spa wall may need some repair if a coat of sealer was not applied to the tile area first, to begin with. The same processes that broke the thin set down also work on the gunite. I have seen situations that, because of neglect, needed a couple inches of cement removed and re-floated prior to the new tile being applied. This is usually limited to the spa wall unless the coping was neglected too. Then the top of the bond beam needs a similar repair. Scott Scott...See MoreNot only in California ...
Comments (34)I've been going Xeric with all my plantings. I've also found that polymer water crystals are great for potted plants. Some people are afraid of it but it allows me to grow a few, more thirsty, plants. I haven't seen any conclusive, documented, research that shows they break down into anything harmful, in amounts to be of concern. But to be on the safe side I don't use it in the food garden and I re-use the dirt in the pots. We have Bermuda grass and it is left to fend for itself. When it rains, it flourishes. When it's dry, it goes dormant. (Right now it's an invading army assaulting my flowerbeds.) The city doesn't care if its brown as long as it doesn't get too high. The HOA doesn't care, as it's a very laid-back, member run, HOA in an individualist respecting subdivision. They insist you keep junk cars and old appliances out of sight but, other than that, pretty much leave everyone alone to do their own thing. I'm the only one I know who likes their HOA. We also have an aerobic septic system and every drop of water gets treated and goes out into the yard sprinklers. I want to convert one of the sprinkler heads into a drip system but the laws are not DYI friendly and I haven't taken the time to find a work around....See Morewestern_pa_luann
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15 years agolast modified: 9 years agostir_fryi SE Mich
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15 years agolast modified: 9 years agorob333 (zone 7b)
15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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