The info above is excellent. I use graph paper, too. FYI, most planners recommend that you orient your rows north to south so that all plants get maximum sun. Also, if you store your leftover seed in ziploc bags in the refrigerator, you can use it for two, maybe even 3 or 4 years more. If my seed is more than two years old, I sow more heavily in order to get a good stand. Still, it's better than wasting seed altogether. I would just point out that if your plot is four feet wide AND has an adequate path around it, you can plant the entire 24'x4' area solidly with plants (a la Square Foot Gardening). By standing in the path, you should be able to reach into the center of the bed without needing to step among your plants, thus eliminating the need for rows. (Seed packets might say plant seeds four inches apart in rows two feet apart. You can ignore the two feet apart if you don't have to walk among the plants.) If you have good soil and are feeding no more than four people, and not planning to can, etc., 3 or 4 tomato plants are probably all you will need. If you cage them, you can plant them 2 feet apart. So a 4'x4' square on the north end will accomodate your tomatoes and you still have 20x4' left for other things. Tomatoes must be rotated every year, so next year you get back to the shading problem. You might want to consider growing your tomatoes in pots so that you can change out the potting mix every year. This, of course, would free up sixteen more square feet for other things. Gardeners Supply has a garden planning tool on their website that you can use for free too. I enclose a link. (I don't work for them. I just buy from them.) Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Planner

Kathy, if they are dry when you package them, there is no problem. For trading purposes, the small 2 x 3 ziplocks are wonderful, they are usually the perfect size for a small amount of seeds. I store all my bulk seed inside the quart freezer ziplocks. In fact, I organize and store my trades (incoming and outgoing) in the quart size ziplocks too! For drying purposes, I have come to love my disposable ziplock containers, they are cheap, stackable when necessary, reusable and don't tie up all my cooking bowls!!! Brown paper lunch bags work fairly well too, except little seeds get caught in the bottom folds and creases. Lisa

vwwhippiechick: have you ever done anything like this before? If not, (in my opinion) here's a few things to keep in mind: 1. READ EVERYTHING (I'm presuming you're not a guy like me who'd "skim" over the instructions...HA!) READ ALL of the instructions completely - BEFORE you do ANYTHING ELSE... I'm sure that the company you are working with spent alot of time and effort to come up with a consise and cojent means of giving you direction, so use the tools they provide - then, if you are still scratching your head - post here on GW or e-mail me at kevin@azschoolofrock.com - I will help where I can. 2. TAKE YOUR TIME (again, don't be like me and "blow and go" so you can watch the Packers - oh yeah... that's right - they have a "bye" this week... ;-) ) DO NOT be in a hurry - lives are not depending upon your speed, so GO SLOW 3. REMEMBER YOUR OVERHANGS - typical front overhang is 1 1/2" from the face of the cabinet. Overhangs adjacent to slide in ranges will depend on the space available - measure your stone width to confirm what you'll need to allow - I usually allow 30 1/4" for the stove- flat polish the egdes that go up against the stove sides 4. SINK SET BACKS & CENTERLINES - most kitchen sink set backs are 4" from the front of the finished edge -NOT the cabinet face also, check your inside cabinet dimensions to make sure that your sink will fit - side to side and frnt to back. Center lines are usually the center point between the two front dors of the sink base cabinet. 5. SPACE BEHIND YOUR FAUCET & ACCESSORIES - is your project goinG to be fabbed out of 3CM material? if so, I'd do a simulation that will allow you to visuallize where the sink is, where the faucet will go, And how much space will be left behind the faucet - ESPECIALLY if you are using 3CM back splash - many jobs go into crisis mode because this gets overlooked until it's too late - usually on the day of install - which is way too late in my opinion. This is compounded when there are escutcheons (trim rings)that are used with the faucet and accessories... 6. SEAM PLACEMENT - remember that the slabs are only so long, and that seams will probably be part of the project - the only place that I try to NOT put a seam at - is over a dishwasher - just my personal preference... 7. SCRIBING TO YOUR WALLS - your walls are NOT square or even, so remember that you will want to check the points where the stone meets your walls - DO NOT ASSUME that your walls run straight 8. DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING - you are giving info to someone that will never be in you home and can't see what you want, let alone see your "vision"... you ar essentially telling somone how to BLINDLY create a series of objects that YOU will be istalling in your HOME.. remember the old "garbage in-garbage out" analogy, and give as much relevant intel as you can. Include pohots and diagrams of special areas, that can be used as reference... Thomas Edison used to use a two word reference that I love: "MAKE THIS" Remember that is what you'll be doing too... Worst case scenario, you could hire a Fabricator to do the templating - or at least - hold your hand "on site" while you do it... just a thought.... hope that helps kevin Kevin M. Padden MIA SFA Fabricator, Trainer & Consultant to the Natural Stone Industry www.azschoolofrock.com

Hi Taigen...I was just coming to say that the other template that came from a link that was posted isn't right. It makes an oval instead of a half circle. Thanks for posting this. I just finished using a compass and making mine. I'm going to try using some of the scrapbooking paper today too. To see if I like them in color. Last year I made mine all white with the shiny clear glitter (pearl ?) patti