I should mention that I've had no problems so far.

They make a point in the video that you should cut in a small area then immediately follow that with rolling on the wall. For example, if you cut in 3 feet of ceiling, you should then follow with rolling three feet of wall to blend in with that line. This technique minimizes the chance that you'll have a visible cut-in frame around the perimeter of the wall.

I have to admit I've never done this. I cut in the ceiling, down the corners, and then around the baseboard. THEN I roll the wall. It just seems so crazy to be jumping up and down from the ladder and rolling in-between.

Is this technique correct? I'm not sure I'll change my methods, just wondering how other folks proceed.

Here's my method:

1 - Feather the cut-in area out into the room 6-8 inches, from 100% coverage 3-4 inches out from the wall to barely 10% (just visible) at the end of the feather. The goal is to NOT have a straight line of paint.

2 - let it dry completely

3 - When I roll the wall, I cover the cut-in area, making at one full stroke parallel to the wall or ceiling and as close as I can get with the roller. The broad feathered area minimizes the 'framing" effect you get if you have a 4-inch cut in with a hard edge and then cover it with the roller.

I also tend to apply paint thicker than most non-professionals, which also minimizes the framing effect.

Besides...if you're chasing a cut-in line around the wall with a roller, and only doing 3' down....what's happening with the edge of your 3' path?!??!?!

>>> All that accomplishes is moving your cut-in down 3'!!
>>> Also...by the time you get back around the room, THAT roller edge is now near-dry, making the main body of wall all that much harder to blend in, if at all!
>>> PLUS...that edge is now @ EYE-LEVEL, instead of 8' up!

(Faron shaking his head here!!)

Unless you live behind a roller/brush, here's MY perfect technique:
* Cut-in the whole room first...everything!
* Modern latexes dry too fast to EVER keep up with a wet cut-in edge.
* I just brush my cut-in down ~ 3" to a hazy/feather-edge.
* Now when rolling, I'll roll horizontally about 3', pretty tight to ceiling (and/or sidewall, etc.), with my pressure eased-off slightly over the cut-in...just to get a little roller-stipple, but not a full coat of paint, over the cut-in.
* Now I always do a "Column" of paint. On an 8' wall, I'll do 4 sections of paint in a column 3' wide. That's 4 ROLLER-LOADS OF PAINT IN A 3'-wide COLUMN.
* When done with this column, don't re-load. Bring roller to the upper-left and lightly do a continuous sweep over your paint to the baseboard. REPEAT these light downsweeps and end about 6" shy of your columns' right edge.
* Repeat around room!
* The whole idea of the light downstrokes is to even and level your main roller areas. You'll have thick&thin spots you can't see because they're wet! Plus you avoid the "baseball-field" mowed look when paint is leaning the same direction!
* I always do this and my paint looks perfect...no banding, thin areas, differing reflection-angles, etc.

Faron

Here's another thing I found curious. The painter in the video used an extension pole when painting the wall--top to bottom of what looked to be a standard 8-ft wall. Of course, as she was rolling from top to bottom she was backing into the room to maintain steady pressure. Looked like more of a hassle than just rolling the wall up close and personal.

I use Faron's column method, making sure to use enough paint to get good coverage. The #1 noobie painter flaw is they try to do too much wall per roller-full and end up with skips and thin spots. One roller-full does (for me) about a 2x3 section of wall.

I make a W or an X and then roll it sideways into the finished part and then top to bottom, ending each column with the one long top to bottom smoothing stroke. It usually works best if you start on your dominant side (right end of the wall for a righty, left end for a leftie) and work around the room that way. Try not to cross your arm in front of your body.

Windows ... I do above the window as if it were a small wall, then do under the window, then resume the columns on the other side of the window.

I want to paint my ceilings last, lol. Bad idea?

yes

I probably will do the ceiling a little lighter or in some areas will anyway. Bathroom was all the same paint. I'm also using matte. Right, but flat for the ceiling. I used the matte B&S all over in the bathroom.

Maybe I could do the ceiling cutting in part first but not the dreaded roller part.

Brush the ceiling-paint onto the side wall about 3" down.
Feather-out the bottom edge to nothing.

Now...ALL of the overhead is done!
If something gets splatted onto the side-walls, who cares! You haven't painted them yet...;-) !!

Next, as PG said, just cut-in your walls. At the top, you can leave a 1/2" or even a full 1" of the C-P on the sidewall showing.

Faron

How about ceiling technique? The 8' columns on a wall are manageable but with wider rooms, how do you manage rolling the ceiling without these fast drying paints being tacky for the next section?

Think of yourself painting inside a shoebox! The underside of the "lid" is your ceiling. Obviously, it's rectangular.
* Draw an imaginary line down the middle of the LONG length.
* Now you've got 2 long/skinny rectangles.
* Roll each rect. across its SHORT side. This translates into "real-life" reachable stroking-lengths...usually!
* Plus, your footwork is mainly in a straight line, centered under the skinny rectangles!
* On your FIRST roll, start ~1' AWAY from the wall, and roll at AN ANGLE towards the corner. We'll just say you're doing ~5'-6' roll...MAX.
* Now roll square-to-the-wall at the edge, moving out from the corner, going towards the start of that angled stroke.
* Next, roll thru the first pass, at a slight angle, to the opposite corner.
* Then, just "square-up" this edge by rolling-over the first angled pass.

>>> All you're doing here is painting a ~2'x6' skinny X!
* Don't push too hard on the first passes!!
* You wanna slowly unload the roller equally on the first 2 strokes.
* The other 2-4 strokes in this SKINNY X are ~90% overlapping, with some squaring-off rolls.

>>> For the 2nd section away from the sidewall, start ~1' AWAY from your wet-edge, roll at the slight angle towards your 1st X....and repeat through this X.
* When you meet your 1st sections' edge, slightly overlap ~1", with slightly less pressure on that edge. It's all about finesse here!
* Practice this little "dance" with a dry roller 1st~.
* You'll maybe be doing ~6 long/continuous strokes per X.

>>> Use a good Cover!!

Faron

Thanks : )

Constantly switching tools is a lot of wasted motion, & increases odds of a paint accident.

Besides...Paints dry pretty fast nowadays!
If I was doing this room:
* Cut-in the ceiling edges ~3" on the actual ceiling, and down ~3" onto the sidewall. Again, brush-out your bottom-edge on the wall so no ridge shows.
* OPTION-B4 even pouring the paint, caulk the wall/ceiling joint, and smooth out the bead.
* This gives a "smoothed-out" corner appearance all around the top.
* Ceiling/wall corners are rarely pristine anyway!
* Now roll the whole ceiling using the pattern I suggested.

Snookums-
* Think of laying down 10 dominos, long sides touching. Now add another row, short-sides touching the same on 1st row.
* Just mentally picture a skinny X on each domino.
* Repeat pattern in my earlier post, and soon you'll have the whole grid filled in!
* Finish-off each rect. with light/long/continuous strokes to further even-out your paint distribution in each "Domino".

Faron