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pine and cedar t&g beadboard ... paint or stain?

Posted by liketolearn (My Page) on
Sat, Nov 18, 06 at 2:25

We purchased some 3/4" T&G for wainscoting and I'm looking for a finishing solution ...

~ We plan to use the cedar in the Master Bathroom and DH has reluctantly agreed to it painted white.
~ We also plan to use cedar in the 2FL bathroom and I've already promised DH he could use a clear stain.
We compromised on this one as I really wanted white beadboard in Master Bathroom and so I agreed to give DH "free reign" on 2FL bathroom (meaning clear finish cedar).

~ We plan to use the pine T&G at the mudroom entrance hall.
~ And we plan to use the pine T&G in the laundry room. The laundry room will have maple cabinets in a clear natural finish.
These 2 areas are located close but not next to each other.

~ DH is pushing hard for his favorite of a clear finish so you can see all the wood grain. He likes a clear finish on all wood (no stain or paint). He says the knots will bleed and ruin the paint.
~ I'm just feeling it's too much with most of the house having red oaking flooring (and stairs) in a clear natural finish, and whitewashed hickory cabinets or clear natural finish maple cabinets. I'd like some variety, texture, and some COLOR!!!

So I'm looking for a compromise. I see that some companies offer colored stains that give color (greens, blues, etc) and allow the knots and grain to show through. I think it could be a good compromise for the pine T&G. Must mention too that the pine T&G has lots of knots of varying sizes. Not usually sought after but DH loves the wood grain and knots!

Has anyone used these colored stains?
Any suggestions on finishing pine T&G?
Would love to see pictures!

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: pine and cedar t&g beadboard ... paint or stain?

The pine will bleed when it is painted unless you use a good primer that will seal. I used Zinsser 123 on the inside of a cabinet and I could still see the grain and knots. I then coved those areas with Zinsser BIN.

I have 2 rooms with tongue and groove on the ceilings. The living room is vaulted and has beams also. I did the work on the boards. I sanded them, put on a clear coat of poly, let dry, lightly sand and another clear coat of poly. I choose oil poly because it will natually become darker, and they look very nice! Latex poly will not become darker. I like the depth of the look so much that I decided to put it on my dining room ceiling, instead of replacing the sheetrock.

My carpenter delivered 36 16 ft boards for me to finish and then he put them up. It was worth all the extra work!

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