can the hardware store mix the paint with only 1/2 of the pigments to get a lighter shade? has anyone done this?

And, save the formula if you need to buy more paint.

IF that Green goes into the darkest tint-base, you can only back-off the formula...A LITTLE....25% MAX.
* Since these tintbases are pretty sheer, if ya cut back colorant 50%, you'll basically have GLAZE.
* All we'll do at our store is the "somewhat arbitrary" 25%. Even then, it depends on the formula.
* A (slightly) better way to go is OVERTINTING the next base "up" from the darkest one....maybe to ~ 125% MAX of its formula. IF this base will handle the total colorant!!
* I wouldn't do it AT ALL for bright Yellows, Reds, Burgundies or real saturated colors. Only option here would be the "overtinting" the next base up.
* It'll work better for "Earth"-tones, since these colorants are much more opaque.

Faron

Two things you have to remember a lot of people talk about color who have not one fat clue what their talking about

and

Designers, decorators and stages are not paint and color experts. They are designers, decorators and stagers.

Color consultants on the other oughta know better. But many of them do not. Because several rolled out of bed one morning and decided since a family member told them they had a "flair for color" they would hang out a shingle and announce to the world that they are a color designer, expert, and consultant.

Compounding that fact there are now color consultant certification programs being taught by people who really do not have any quantifiable architectural color experience. No worries tho, they'll still give you advice about everything color from physiopsychological responses to the best color strategies for your website.

Shocking, but true.

It's the consumer that suffers. Buyer beware.

Cutting formulas is a risk and you need proper support from behind the counter in order for it to be successful. If we could clone Faron, it'd be a better paint world.

However, I don't think it's okay to say that you can (or could) cut a formula if you want to -- because the vast majority of the time the percentage business is not a literal -25% or -50%, etc. For exactly the reasons Faron outlined.

Not listening to the the paint pro behind the counter is insane unless you have nothin' but time and money to burn. That's assuming you've found a competent paint pro.

They're not likely to tell you can't do it, they're just going to tell you they won't guarantee what will happen -- most of them are game to try whatever you want to try because whether or not you like the reformulation, you're buying the gallon.

No sweat off their azz what you want to *try* as long as you can pay for it.

Like I said before, messing with the original formula is a risk and folks need to clearly understand that risk. And you need support from the other side of that counter in order to have a shot at it being successful.

I will respectfully agree to disagree.

This IS a good "mini-topic", and touches on many facets of "creating/altering colors", and design/decorating.

* LIGHT-TO-MEDIUM colors are easy to "shade".
* The darker the color though, the harder it is. Mainly because the tintbases have less white (opacity) the darker you go.
"Sure Ma'am, I can mix your 50% Burgundy GLAZE..."
;-)

Obviously, I don't know what goes into the actual color-training for ASID. My best guess is...that they don't get into how the PAINT ITSELF operates. It's easy to envision "shades" when looking at swatches/fabrics/booklets at a consultation table. But, alas, translating deeper tones into ACTUAL useable paint is where a disconnect happens.

Fun-C.....Gosh! Your high praise makes me blush! I maybe deserve 10% of it....
YOU, however, bring a whole universe of clarity to all design/decorating/reasoning themes and practices. I get smarter just reading your posts.

Faron

;)