pPc? Details about width and depth of area caulked?

This is what DH said:
The top of the chair rail is about 1/8" wide. The depth varied �" at times there was none (where the chair rail was flush with the wall), but in other spots there was as much as an 1/8" gap. The crack runs almost the entire length of the area caulked, so depth doesn't seem to be the issue. Would it crack if I smoothed the caulk too thin(ly)?

also, out of curiosity, what does "pPc" mean? Not "pay-per-click," I imagine.

Oops, that was supposed to be Pic for picture. Sometimes said to be worth a thousand words.

Here ya go.

We weren't 100% sure about caulking the gap, so I guess we have our answer now. :( However, the crack does run the length of the rail, even where there was no gap, so I'm not sure if that was the problem. Regardless, do we just need to keep applying small beads until it doesn't crack?

This has been so frustrating!

We weren't 100% sure about caulking the gap, so I guess we have our answer now. :( However, the crack does run the length of the rail, even where there was no gap, so I'm not sure if that was the problem. Regardless, do we just need to keep applying small beads until it doesn't crack?

This has been so frustrating!

The only two hints I can give:
1) Primer before caulking on new sheetrock , because caulk sticks a lot better to painted materials than raw ones.
2) If the gap is "healthy", use a caulk with more solids/water ratio, like Big Stretch caulk. Since there is less water, it really does not shrink down very much as it dries.
Casey

Spend a few extra dollars on a good flexible caulk and follow the instructions.

Dynaflex is one quality caulk that is elastomeric and will perform much better than the inexpensive Alex caulk.

Did you tool the caulk in place?

What do you mean by tool the caulk. Do you think its' necessary to use one of those little caulking tools? I haven't come across that tip yet.

(I know this is an old thread).

No, tooling just means using your finger to smooth the caulk into the gap evenly.

okay, thanks.

I am guessing it cracked because it was lousy caulk. Polyseamseal and White Lightning are two brands to avoid. Polyseamseal will crack because it is just not flexible enough. W/L will crack because what do you expect at that price point? It is more water than solids, shrinks back a lot.
If you work the caulk too much, it may separate because not enough was left to fillet across the gap.
Casey

Alex plus is supposed to be a better caulk. It is siliconized, so It is supposed to give more.

quote"Alex plus is supposed to be a better caulk."

It is not. It would be at the lower end of the quality scale

Use a good elastomeric caulk like DAP Dynaflex 230 that meets Class 25 specs. Don't use cheap painter's caulk.

Make sure the joint is clean, dust free and dry.

Apply to a primed/painted surface, not bare absorbent ones (wood, drywall board, plaster, etc).

The trim etc. expands and contracts seasonally, so if possible, I would also caulk at a time when the humidity level is mid-point for the room. If the range spans 50-75, then around 60+.