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| I've searched threads here, without luck. DD2's home has builder's grade oak cabinets that were recently painted (four months ago) that didn't turn out as expected. Color is just wrong. A small end table done as a test looked great, but on the cabinets - not so much.
They used products the BM dealer recommended - deglosser, primer, dark chocolate brown paint, medium dark green coat over that (put on with an older brush so that some of the brown shows through), THEN a glaze over that. It reminds me of methods my grandmother used on a teacart in the 70s. Now DD2 wants to paint over them using BM paint. Probably an off-white on top and maybe a medium gray on bottom. In her dream world, the bottom would be some shade of turquoise, but I'm not sure that's a good idea. Anyway, she doesn't cook that much so no grease on the cabinets. I read a link to website that talked about the 6 steps. Surely to Buddha that's not necessary this time around. Ok, experts, what needs to be done so that the paint stays and looks good. She has eclectic taste, with a mix of old and new. Doesn't mind roughed up, painted vintage pieces but don't think she wants to go so far as using Ann Sloan's chalk paint and roughing them up. Thanks in advance. |
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| Allison, reality is that people skimp on prep work all the time. Sometimes they get away with it, sometimes things go wrong. Things like the 6 step tutorial help you cover the bases to help prevent anything going wrong, but only you can judge if you don't feel you need to degrease or if you'll be happy with the finish if you don't sand between coats. You wouldn't be the first...just weigh the options knowing that you're taking a chance and make the judgement call accordingly. Actually, the tutorial mentions that both degreasing and sanding between coats may be optional depending on your situation. It's always a good idea to degloss paint sheen before painting to give the paint a surface it can bond to...but I recently learned my parents have never sanded their semi-gloss banister before repainting. Advisable? No. But they seem to get away with it. Have you seen the Rustoleum Cabinet Tranformations? The big bragging point with their product is no priming or sanding; you use a deglosser instead of sanding, a "bond coat" instead of priming, and the glaze and top coat for the finish coats; things you can do on your own with products of your choosing, but they've found a catchy way to market it as a package. Essentially you need to: If you're not changing hardware or filling holes you're saved a lot of work. I think the tutorial can look intimidating...but it's really not that bad. |
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- Posted by allison0704 (My Page) on Thu, Aug 4, 11 at 17:21
| Thank you for your time. I realize the doors will have to be sanding and did consider primer for cover on the lighter cabs. I have not seen the Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations but will check it out. Baby due this next week, so we won't be repainting for awhile longer. |
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| don't forget , after sanding wipe down with damp rag ( paper towels in a color other than the color of paint you are sanding would be I deal , I use a spray bottle to lightly mist the surface then wipe off . Change towels often to be sure you get all the dust off. This is probably the the single biggest thing you can do to prevent chipping I have seen chipping on some jobs because of this (not mine of course) . Its so much work but must be done don't even thing about doing this if you don't have 2 weeks, a thousand dollar sprayer, a 2 car garage for spraying , racks for racking the doors and drawers, and at least 3 to 4 coats per side |
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