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Trouble with oil base primer

Posted by dreamthedream (My Page) on
Tue, Aug 17, 10 at 13:03

I am practicing on a drawer back before I start to paint my cabinets and am having a very difficult time with the oil primer. I am using BM Fresh Start, the first time I applied it I was using an older Purdy brush and it turned out to be real "ropy" and rough. Talked to the paint store, he suggested a new "white china bristle brush" and to thin the primer (even tho on the back of the can it clearly states "Do not thin". So bought the brush and thined the primer, it still turned out ropy and rought altho not quite as bad. What am I doing wrong? I usually work with latex (hate oil) and never have a problem. Can someone please help me. After reading all day yesterday I am thinking about buying FPE paint (right now I have BM Satin Impervo) but am concerned about trying another oil primer until I figure out my problem. Thank you so much.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Trouble with oil base primer

I don't know what you mean by ropy and rough. If you are priming raw wood, it is normal for any primer to raise the grain of the wood which will make it rough. You will always have to sand smooth after primer.

RE: Trouble with oil base primer

I guess the best way to explain it is - real thick brush marks . When I tried to sand it the brush marks were still very rough. I am painting over previously stained wood, which I have prepared by cleaning and sanding. It's kind of like the paint doesn't level off, hope this makes sense. It's only the back of a drawer so I can't be over working the paint, or at least I don't think so. Thanks for your advice.

RE: Trouble with oil base primer

Is it the fast dry? That one is hard to brush out because it has so little oil, I would not use it under an enamel job.
Enamel undercoater is the Moore primer I'd recommend for you. And thin it as much as you need to get it on smooth.
I always apply with a roller and brush out.
When dry, sand it all with 240 grit, and see if it needs a second coat of primer (likely). The second primer can effectively be rolled on with a foam roller cover, and not back-brushed. Sand that with 320 if there is any texture, before the finish coat. If the primer is difficult to sand, allow it to dry longer.

RE: Trouble with oil base primer

This dries to touch in 6 to 8 hours. I used a 150 sand paper and it hardly phased it at all, it dried hard as a brick. I have never used oil primer before so truly do not know how it is suspose to feel, but this surely can't be right. I have only used latex in the past and never have any problems at all.

How much should I thin it? I used 2 tablespoons to a quart.

RE: Trouble with oil base primer

When I did my FPE sample boards, I just used two coats of C2's SAP (Sandable Acrylic Primer-Latex) a couple hours apart, and let them sit 'till the next day. These sanded-off nice.
(You can use Zinsser's 123 primer as well.)
You CAN do 2 or 3 coats of primer to give yourself SOME grain-filling function and sanding-cushion.

I then did two coats of FPE's ECO-series (Latex) White....WOW! can thin primer. Cans often state "No thinning" 'cuz sometimes people use the wrong stuff, or way too much, etc.
* A very good "relaxer" for Oil primers is XIM's X-tender for Oil paints & primers. There's a version for Latex paints/primers too.
* You won't need it with FPE stuff though!
* Most SW stores have some XIM stuff. I've got it @ the ACE where I work, but ACE itself doesn't carry it. We've got to order lots of stuff directly from vendors.


RE: Trouble with oil base primer

Thanks everyone for all your help.

RE: Trouble with oil base primer

Faron, I ordered the FPE primer and paint today, can't wait to see the results I get with it. Also ordered the brushing putty. Emmett recommended oil base primer since I am trying the putty, and then I am going to topcoat with ECO latex in satin finish. My cabinets are going to gorgeous. LOL Will keep you posted.

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