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| is Rustoleum (or other enamel) paint typically difficult to work with or is it me? It came out very streaky. I used foam rollers for flat areas and a 1" regular brush for moldings and cutting in.
the long story: I painted a desk/hutch awhile ago using Aura Black eggshell and it came out nice. But I recently realized that the chair I used with that desk ought to be black too. It had a lot of rungs on the back so I figured spray painting was the way to go. So I spray painted it with Rustoleum Satin Black. The cap color matched my desk great. It came out wonderful, but much blacker and shinier than the desk (and the cap!). I sanded it down lightly to take the sheen down and antique the edges. But still the two blacks were worlds apart. I wasn't sure if it was a sheen difference (eggshell/satin) or a color difference, but I suspected a bit of both. So I bought the same Rustoleum Black Satin that I used in a spray paint in a quart to re-do the desk. Definitely, not my best work. Okay from a distance, but up close, lots of areas not nearly as smooth and sleek as I would like. I'm tempted to go back and do it all over again in Aura satin but I might not match the black chair right. I suppose I could do that over too even with the rungs. Now that the chair was spray painted once, additional coats could be done by hand I guess. Or do I need to focus on more sanding to even things out? with what exactly? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| R-O is very good paint...spray or brush-on. We go thru bunches of it! What exact R-O spray &/or brush-on series were ya using? Faron |
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| It just says Satin.... "classic low-sheen". I think it has too much gloss for Satin, but that's another story. I used a foam roller and I can see some edges. Would I be better off going over it with a brush? Is it self-levelling? I was fearful of brush marks. |
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| Hmmmm...Is it the "Touch-n-Tone" series? That's the LOW end stuff. Others: Faron |
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| Stops-Rust |
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| SR is a good line. The blacks will be different because the TINTED Aura won't be as black as a factory-tinted black (spray or liquid). Was the Aura factory-tinted or STORE tinted? Bottom-line...they'll never match exactly (sheen or color) unless both are done with the same paint. Faron |
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| I'm not trying to match Aura/R-O at this point. That's why I did R-O on the desk. Right now, I just want to get the R-O nice looking. Can I? The R-O chair is great (spray). THe R-O desk is streaky (paint)
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| (went out to finish mowing front yard...now that it's cooler!) Yes, every paint "handles" different obviously. Faron |
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| scuff-sand ... what do you mean precisely. grit? medium? * How wide a brush are ya using? I was using a 6" foam roller. The door with the largest surface that gets all the reflected light, is about 18" wide. What size brush would you recommend? |
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| Scuff-sand: Use ~ 120-grit. For wide areas: Use the foam roller. Faron |
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| an update... I got it a little better, but it was still streaky. I used the foam roller again. And of course, I couldn't cut in around the stiles with the roller so that edge was not clean either. Today I gave in and just removed the cabinet doors and drawers and took them outside and spray painted them. Success! The frame is fine as-is, its too thin to be a problem and the side panels don't get the good light that the front gets. I will never use Rustoleum liquid again. (but the spray can't be beat!) Plus I don't like that I can't easily cleanup and re-use materials. I disposed of everything even a (older) good brush and hated that. I usually wash and re-use even disposable things. Aura for me forever... |
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