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Painting Garage Floor - Do I need to Etch?

Posted by PinesEverywhere (My Page) on
Fri, Jul 20, 12 at 14:38

I know you experts are sick of this question. I have looked at old threads and researched this and I am still confused.

My goal: Paint a concrete floor that was painted only once (long ago) and the old paint has mostly worn away. There is no sealer on it and it looks in good shape. This garage IS NOT used for vehicles but is transitioning into a game room. Light foot traffic only, cabinets, tables, chairs, TV and Pool Table -- that is it.

My plan is the following but I want to SKIP step 2 if you experts think I can.

1.) Sweep, Clean and Use a Degreaser
2.) Etch with Muratic Acid
3.) Paint with 1Part Epoxy Sherwin Williams Product called ARMOSEAL TRED-PLEX (Protective & Marine Coating)

Can I SKIP the Muratic Acid step (even though I was advised to do by Sherwin-Williams). That stuff scares me and all my walls and mouldings are freshly painted and perfect.

HELP !!!

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Painting Garage Floor - Do I need to Etch?

On the above POST for help, I forgot to add that in a couple years (four at the most) I would be completing the above Garage conversion and putting in some harder, nice flooring (ceramic tile, Congoleum, etc.).

So the above request and project only needs to last a few years of light traffic and entertaining.

Again, can I skip the etching part?

RE: Painting Garage Floor - Do I need to Etch?

I'm not an expert, but when we painted a concrete basement floor, we used a primer and concrete paint. It has held up well under light usage.

Speaking strictly as an amateur, I would skip the acid cleaning.

RE: Painting Garage Floor - Do I need to Etch?

In this case, pole-sand the floor after cleaning well.

Remove ALL dust...then paint!


RE: Painting Garage Floor - Do I need to Etch?

Gray Wings & Faron

Thanks for chiming in and the advice. Your posts came at the perfect time (right after we de-greased and scrubbed the floor with heavy brushes on our hands/knees going in circular motions, cross-wise, straight away, etc.). I soaked up the dirt & grime right away with a combination of shop towels and rags).

I did read somewhere that if water was soaking in, there was good indication that any previous sealant was well-worn away and that a good soakable surface existed for paint to adhere to. This was my condition so I was encouraged while scrubbing and AFTER reading your posts.

After the scrubbing and drying over-night, we patched one crack/gouge with paintable cement caulk and painted away. One coat was recommended but I ended up doing a second coat for color saturation. The soaking "in" seemed perfect and the drying time was half of what the label said. I would HIGHLY recommend this paint for anyone with a similar project.

I waited the label recommended time anyway to recoat and it looks fabulous. I've started moving things back in and so- far-so-good. I'll start a new thread later in the week with a before and after. I also stucco'd and painted an accent wall which was a painter's challenge too but I had experience with that.

You're advice on NOT to etch -- saved boat loads of time and mess so I appreciate it very much. Thank you!

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