Sorry you're having such a hard time. I haven't used Zinsser primer, but I have used SW oil based PrepRite (on unfinished wood) and ProBlock on stained woodwork I wanted to paint white. I used a good quality China bristle brush-before I knew about Chinex-read below- and the surface came out nice and smooth. I only needed one primer coat on the unfinished wood, but two on the stained wood.

It could be that your brush is causing the brush marks, and not necessarily the primer.

Get the best quality Chinex brush you can find (Coronas (Excaliber and Edge) are great, but kind of hard to find-I got them online - SW owns and sells Purdy and they're good as well). Chinex can be used for both oil and latex paints and once you try it, you'll never go back. I LOVE them. The bristles are so soft and silky feeling.

I'd suggest not working anymore on the actual cabinets until you are satisfied with the results. Instead, get some scrap pieces of lumber and practice on them first. It's a good idea to practice on something disposable if you're using a product that's new or a technique you haven't tried before.

Some of the newer waterborne finish paints are tricky to use and you haven't even gotten to that step yet. I practiced on closet shelving with SW ProClassic, e.g., then windows and trim before I went on to bigger surfaces like doors and still it took me several tries (and lots of sanding) to achieve the results I was satisfied with. They do give a lovely finish when you get it right. I don't know if the BM paint you're using is a waterborne, but if it is, practice on something first so you get the hang of it.

You're doing the right thing laying the doors horizontally. When you get the right brushes, primer and technique right, I'm sure you'll get a lovely smooth finish.

BTW, I don't think you have to be a "pro" to use Cabinet Coat. I've seen pictures of cabinets painted by DIYers on the kitchen gallery, and they look excellent.

Good luck.

Set aside the CoverStain.

Sand to a smooth surface and reprime with SW PrepRite Classic primer or BM Fresh Start. A light sanding will be required on either to insure a smooth surface.

Cabinet Coat is probably your best bet. Two thin coats works best, and try to work with the doors and drawer fronts in horizontal position. It will apply easier for you than the Pro Classic. I use PC for almost everything in trim, but I've been spreading it since it come out. That makes a difference.

As randita suggests, practice with it until you have it right, then proceed.

Michael

Thank you for the help!

So, is the cover/stain particularly hard to work with? I tried the backs of the cabinet doors today, both with a sponge roller, and my old brush. I just can't believe how bad it looks. Even sanding doesn't smooth it. I swear I now need to apply a wood grain filler!

Fresh Start alkyd or water-based (or does it matter?)

I don't have access to Cabinet Coat here in my small town. And the bully at Mark's Paint laughed (actually laughed--though the name was funny sounding) at me when I asked for it. Said he'd never heard of such a thing, and *he* has heard of *everything*!

Wishing I could hire and fly Michael out to California to do this job for me...

Francy

I'd like to meet this "worker" at Mark's Paint....
You should mention to him "well, they've had it in FARGO for some time"!!

I've babbled about this before, but we've had CC at our ACE for YEARS now!! It's been in the ACE system that long too...
Last November, ACE released their version of CC. It's 50-state VOC-Legal (under 50g/L.). The people who've used it here really like it.

Great advice above. I like Purdy's "Syntox" brushes, but a "full" Chinex would be better.

Faron

bayareafrancy - I haven't had experience with the Cover/Stain, but I would follow Michael's advice and use the SW PrepRite Classic. I have used that and can attest that it's very good product. Get rid of the brushes you have - inferior brushes will not give you a nice smooth finish. If you want the best finish, get the best (unfortunately, the most expensive brushes you can buy). If you take care of them, they'll last you through many future paint jobs.

If you want it to look close to a professional job, you have to start by using the products professionals use.

If you can't get CC, try the ProClassic (get a quart to start with), but practice a lot with it first. It sets up really fast, so you absolutely can't overwork it and you cannot go back and fix a mistake until the paint is fully dry - then you can sand out the mistake and touch up. As an experienced painter, I found the ProClassic easy enough to work with on horizontal surfaces and got a nice smooth finish, but really had a learning curve on vertical surfaces--I tended to put it on way too thickly and it would drip and sag. I've gotten much better and I love the finish. It's so smooth and it just glows like a pearl - not too glossy even in the semi-gloss.

Don't be in a hurry. Get the new products and practice on some scrap, then go back when you're ready. You're persistent so I can tell you'll eventually get it right.

One thought - are you seeing the grain of the wood after the paint dries? If so, there's nothing you can do about that except put some kind of smoother on the wood first to fill in the grain. I've never done that. Primer and paint will not fill in and level the natural wood grain totally. I don't mind seeing the wood grain, but it is a matter of personal taste.

On the thread below, you'll see some pictures of cabinets done with CC. I think you can get an equally good finish with ProClassic if you practice.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/paint/msg0819042712662.html

Thanks again for your helpful words!

I went to Mark's Paint this morning (in my small town, I am limited to Mark's, the local hardware store which carries BM, and Kelly Moore. No access to SW.) I took a door with me, and my lousy brush. I had hoped to get a pro to advise how much of the problem is the primer, how much is the brush, and how much is my technique. No such luck. The guy basically said that my brush seemed stiff, and that the Cover/Stain is fast drying.

I didn't get new primer yet, b/c I figured I'd go ahead and try the new Corona brushes before I waste all this primer and buy new. Since I've already gone this far with the painting, I will probably have to live with some brushmarks, since I just can't sand down all these doors. (I have too many 80 year old doors that have to be sanded, so I just can't face adding the new ones--paint grade birch--to the mix.)

Here are some photos of my lousy work. The brushstrokes come from one single pass of primer with my old brush. There is no self-leveling.

Door:
{{!gwi}}

Closeup of door (not sanded--tho sanding doesn't help much. This is why I joked about needing grain filler!)
{{!gwi}}

Drawer, unsanded with heavier layer of Cover/Stain primer:
{{!gwi}}

Drawer, after sanding. Hard to get the brushmarks to show, but they are still there.):
{{!gwi}}

So, I think I'm a little bit stuck with these brushmarks, b/c even if I switch primers, the marks will show. I wonder how much better they will look once the real paint is on?

As a final *grump*, can I just add that I really, really hate painting with my 2 very wild little boys in the house. And they are always a few feet away from me.

I'll let you know if the Chinex helps. If it doesn't, I can always go get the Fresh Start. Even if the old marks show through, maybe it will help me to not add new marks.

Thanks again!

Francy

Update:

WOW CORONA!

What a difference!!!!

Back to the paint...

francy

Francy

OK - STOP what you are doing if you want this done right.

I know this will be a bit more expense, but do you really want to put all the work and effort in and have to live with sub standard results? If not, please do the following:

1. Buy yourself a small finish sander (you should be able to find one for around $30 at Lowes or Home Depot - or even less if you have a harbor freight nearby (just take out the extra warranty which is a couple of bucks if you buy one of the Harbor Frieght cheapies in case it breaks so you get a free replacement)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=121

2. Use the finish sander to sand down the doors you already primed plus anything else that needs sanded. It will be much easier than hand sanding

3. get one of the primers recommended above (SW PrepRite Classic primer or BM Fresh Start) and re-prime using a quality brush

4. Buy Cabinet coat - if the idiots at Mark's paints don't carry it, go here and find the nearest dealer:

http://www.insl-x.com/findDealer.asp?tmpID=52

OR you can order online if no dealer is close by at

http://www.o-geepaint.com/ArchiCoats/inslx.shtml

5. Search this thread for all the Cabinet Coat application tips and FOLLOW THEM. Cabinet Coat will self level if you let it do its work. Do not overwork the paint. Lay it on and get out of it. Do not overbrush

6. Lightly sand and do a 2nd coat of Cabinet Coat

7. Stand back and admire your factory finish like work

TRUST ME - I painted some woodwork and pantry doors following the above guidelines and they turned out great

bayareafrancy - yes, those brush marks with the primer are ridiculous. When I prime with the SW PrepRite, there aren't brush marks. There might be little nibs you have to lightly sand off before the real paint, but no brush marks.

I agree with berryberry. Sand as much primer off as possible and start all over. Whatever you see now is going to show through on the final coat, so while you still have the chance, sand off the brush marks.

Live and learn.

If you can, prime your pieces in the cool hours so it won't dry so fast. Since you're using an oil base primer you can thin it with odorless mineral spirits. The stuff labeled paint thinner is okay for cleaning your brush but I wouldn't use it for painting.

You can use wall board compound to fill old pieces with heavy brush strokes. Sand the piece and then apply a thin coat of wall board compound. I put a small amount of mud on my taping knife and apply it by holding my knife nearly parrallel to the surface and use some pressure when I spread the mud. You only need a very thin coat. I use an old 1/3 sheet pad sander to sand it back. The bigger foot print makes it easier to avoid digging in with the sander. When you're done sanding the piece prime it. It's dusty and a little slow, 12 hours dry time for the mud, but it's cheap and it works.

Don't lose faith or courage! Proceed with what you've learned here. A beautiful cabinet finish followed by hard work and lessons learned brings about a lot of satisfaction.

Michael