Here are some pics of my mess..

Here are some pics of my mess..

{{!gwi}}

Since there is poly in the stain in that PolyShades product, stain isn't going to work like a normal stain because there is goo in there. I would try some normal stain and then poly over your repairs/touch ups. It's not going to be easy though since you are not using the color that was used originally.

Paint guy,
Thanks. the pics show the original cabinet stain. I have door off of one that I used polystain on because when i researched google I got info that said using a darker minwax polyshade would cover them. I can post the pic but they look the same,, blotchy but darker shade... and didn't cover over greenish at all. So you are right about not being easy. I can try a regular stain but ...Starting to look like I have to strip and start over.(Ugh)

Yea, well you probably need to get down to raw wood at least to do the repairs. This is when it becomes hard to blend. Also, need to question why the finish didn't hold up. 4 years isn't that long.

That is a good thought... The stain was cabot water stain. I purchased at Lowe's and it is discontinued. Maybe it was a bad choice? I.m not a pro so maybe I didn't do it right. I've stained wood for shekving and it turned out fine.
Are you familiar with rustoleum cabinet creations? I found info on that and wondering if that may resolve this.
IAny suggestions are welcome. I just want to save the cabinets and make them look nice.
Thanks!

Yea I have seen the Cabinet Creations system. It looks like a paint with an optional glazing step. Painting them would fix all your problems, yes except that you will no longer have that stained look.

I kinda prefer the stained look, just nervous about the whole stripping thing.
Is there a stain that is better? I'm getting that the 1 step with poly aren't so good I don't want to do this again. I live in an older home with beautiful mahogany wood trim and it is in great shape. The banister get's grimy sometimes but it cleans up nice and doesn't show wear. Maybe made better product back then?

This post was edited by candeelyn on Sat, Jul 20, 13 at 23:07

I watched the video for the Cabinet Creations and it doesn't appear to be a process that involved stripping. They tell you to use a deglosser (I would sand) then apply the primers/paint and glaze.

I would say that if you apply poly correctly over a stained surface, apply two coats at least with sanding in between, that it should hold up to normal use. I have heard that some have had success with PolyShades but at the very least I would apply some real poly over it after it is dry.

I think using the poly over the stain is a great idea. This stuff wore to quickly and never looked nice and rich. Not sure if I'll use the polyshades or cabinet creations yet.... guess it depends on amount of work I want to get into...
Since you saw the video would you suggest I use cabinet creations or polyshades? I just don;t want to ruin the cabinets.

I've never had any success with PolyShades. In fact, I hate that stuff. I think it's a stupid idea to mix poly into stain because you make the stain less potent which means you need to almost paint the stain on and even then, it's guesswork arriving at a color. After this step is over, you still need to topcoat it with something because the poly mixed with stain isn't enough. I have heard of people liking the PolyShades though, just not me. The Cabinet Creations looks cool, but really it just looks like a system where you paint the cabinets and then apply a glaze (optional) where you would add some extra effect instead of just having them painted. But, you never know until you try it what it's all about.

Have you ever heard of General Finishes Gel Stain? I came across a post on pinterest (link below) of someone who had used a dark java version of this on oak, without having to totally sand off the old finish. I have some similar cabinets and ordered some of the stain from Rocklers (Amazon also carries it) but haven't gotten to use it yet. The explanation of why this works over existing stain and polyurethane is that chemically it stays more on the surface, and doesn't need to penetrate like typical stains. It also doesn't have a built in polyurethane, so you apply that separately when you're finished with the stain. Looking at the pictures, it looks pretty impressive. Along with the java that seems to be popular, it comes in walnut, mahogany, and other colors. I've run into other posts on the internet where people have used the General Finishes stuff, and the comments are quite positive.

http://pinterest.com/pin/38491771785699791/ The original post was from a DIY blog called Monicawantsit.com. If you click on the picture that comes up on pinterest link, it should take you to her original post and tutorial.

WAIT!! DON"T SAND TO BARE WOOD!!

Sorry for shouting, but I had a similar problem with our 10 year old custom made and finished cabinets and fixed them with two General Finishes products. The first product was GF oil base gel wood stain, http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-wood-stains-sealers/oilbase-gel-stains#.Ue18EdIm6So.........The second was GF Arm-R-Seal Urethane topcoat, green can, http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-top-coats

Two years have come and gone and the cabinets look terrific. There has been absolutely no wear anywhere. I first lightly scuffed the cabinets with 220 sandpaper, then wiped with mineral spirits. The gel stain comes in 12 colors and is made to wipe on over existing finishes. It covers beautifully. The urethane topcoat is made to wipe on with a cloth and dries with no brush marks or imperfections. I did 3 coats, though 2 are enough.
Good luck and I hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: General Finishes

Okay so I am definitely over the whole 1 step poly thing. Not gonna risk it just to save time. I agree with you paint guy because I am a hairdresser and never liked the all in one shampoo/conditioner...
No problem with shouting because I really don't want to strip the cabinets!! I looked at the links (thank you) for the General Finish gel stain and it seems like exactly what I need. I really don't want to paint them. I like wood.
So light sanding? Do any of you know if it will cover evenly over my already uneven cabinets? Also color. I don't want to go a lot darker since my kitchen is not real big. But I'm assuming it would have to be somewhat darker since I'm not completely stripping the old??
The video on their site says wiping on and then using another rag wiping off? I'm assuming enough of it stays to cover well? How many coats?
I found a store about 18 miles from my home that sells it so... maybe I'll head over there tomorrow.

I used two coats of the gel stain to get it the color I wanted. Wipe it on with a clean white lint free cloth, they sell packs of these at Home Depot. It takes a fair amount of rags so I would buy a couple of dozen. I know it sounds like overkill, but once you start wiping the stain off the rags get soaked with stain quickly and don't wipe it off any longer. You are supposed to be able to use a lighter color stain over an existing darker color, though I personally have not done that. Make sure to wear nitrile disposable gloves to keep your hands stain free. As far as the sanding goes I emailed General Finishes before I started and they said it wasn't necessary, but recommended?? The stain is amazing, how it covers the existing stain and still shows the wood grain is beyond me. I'm used to the old school stains that soak into bare wood, but this is just as good and I can't tell the difference. I bought my stain at Woodcraft and also online from Amazon.com.
The Arm-R-Seal topcoat is easy to use. I used semi-gloss but wish I'd used satin for it is very glossy.
What I like is I emailed General Finishes twice and within a day they respond with helpful advice. Try getting Minwax to do that!!
I included an after photo.

Here's a "before" photo

I found a woodcraft store 20 mins from my house' so I went today and bought a gel stain. I'm going to light sand with 220. I prepared a test pc of wood and applied a coat...... (deep breath) color looks good so far... have to wait for it to dry and probably do another coat..
Question...
Do I wipe off immediately?
And thanks your pics look great. very helpful to see before/ after pics. Soooooo guess wait and see.

Good for you! It makes me want to at least do a practice run with mine. Just now I did some reading of comments from people who have used GF gel stains, and whether to wipe off/don't wipe off. It seems to vary a bit--people who want it extra dark mentioned not wiping it off, except if there were globs, etc. Others wiped it on then wiped off pretty much right away. My guess would be to play with it a bit and see what gives you the depth of color that you'd like.

Good luck!

IMHO the stain must be wiped off otherwise it will dry with globs of stain here and there. It's better to do two wiped coats to get the desired color than to not wipe it. Also, don't forget to go over the cabinets with mineral spirits (paint thinner) to remove grease, oils, and fingerprints before staining.

Okay so I sanded slightly and cleaned with the mineral spirits. I applied 1 coat to couple of cabinets. Color is great... covers over nicely..One problem.. a couple spots at the touch points (as in pic above) are staining but not blending with the rest. kinda changes the color but not accepting the full rich color. Any suggestions??
not too hard to wipe on/off. I would agree to not wipe at all would not yield good results i just wasn't sure if I should let it on for a bit then wipe. I experimented on my test pc of wood and better to wipe off right away.
except a few spots the cabinets are looking great! So glad I've learned of this product.. Thank you for all your help!

I am unsure what to suggest. Perhaps another coat in those areas? I would recommend emailing General Finishes for suggestions. Their email contact form follows.

Here is a link that might be useful: General Finishes Email

Thanks. I did email Gf and I am awaiting a response. I also contacted a local woodworker and he said I did something wrong when I initially stained them since they were blotchy then and the resistance I am having now.Ugh. He suggested taking the old stain off completely and start over. I will see what gf says' Hopefully an easier solution...

So frustrating! Hopefully GF can offer some advise that won't involve starting over.

Sorry to tell you but once you have poly urethane on it once it cures it is totally a differant surface that nothing will adhere properly to that is why you have to scuff up the whole surface with 220 or 180 sand paper and reapply poly urethane to it again the sandpaper rough surface gave it some thing to cling to or it will eventually peel off in time like paper and unadhere plus you should have first washed the whole cabiney with borax and vinegar to kill all the mold fungus type color you wre talking about or it will reappear under the surface again and detach the new surface or grow into it after you wash it with the borax vinegar let dry then sand as I stated then what ever heavy duty thinner you use with the polyurthane wipe the whole area clean do not use any other coatings over it it will look good for awhile but it will not last after all that get some new polyurethane that is a deeper color that has the darker pigment in it already they sell it like that you have no choice cause you have a somewhat sealed surface already now if you do it this way hopefully it will last minjimum 15 years maybe 25 or your life time sorry to say the Pro"s that gave you the advise were wrong and it will be only a quick temporary fix that looks good but will not last that long

I posted online, my before and after kitchen (videos 3 and 4) It took about 5 days. So easy! Tested on inside of one door first and it passed the scratch test.

Https://vimeo.com/user12732009/videos

Clean, light sanding, very little ebony stain, 1 coat semi gloss poly.

This post was edited by donnasophia on Sun, Nov 10, 13 at 14:39