Hi BKW!

A few questions obviously!!

1) What was on the wall b4 painting w/ the Valspar, and its finish/sheen?
2) How long was the Valspar up?
3) Was wall washed, and with what, and rinsed b4 Valspar went up?

I'm trying to get the history of Pre-Valspar status!

Separate point here...
The bonding of the 123 primer and new paint coats takes DaaaaYYYS INTO WEEKS B4 full cure-out! Even longer for deep colors.

Don't wipe walls with anything for a few....DAYS if at all possible.

Dry to the touch....vs. FULL-CURE are light-years apart!

Faron

Faron! So glad you saw this and responded.

Pre Valspar bath paint( the glossy paint) was Valspar eggshell. The walls were prepped by washing with a TSP solution (my hubby did this step, he usually washes and rinses), then I primed it with some sort of primer that I had around the house. Said it was ok for drywall and for washed painted walls. The eggshell paint had those "runs" from moisture so we wanted to cover it with primer before painting, just to be safe.

The Valspar Bath paint was put on the wall 8 days ago (last Sunday). Immediately I knew it was not going to work for me. (the color, the sheen, the combination of the two)

So, when I found the 123 and it said I could use it on glossy surfaces, I thought this was going to be the stuff for me.

Well, what do you think? What should I do? Ripping the drywall down isn't an option. I could never get it done before my dh returns from his trip this week. lol

The 123 looked slightly glossy, it didn't really cover the Valspar thickly, like the Kilz always does. Is this ok? I"m thinking that this is why the dark color didn't really cover, it was being repelled by the glossy surface.

arghhhh

Thanks so much for your help. Maybe I should go ahead and rip the drywall down...
-Bee

>>> NO need to be wall-bashin'!!!

123 is a VERY good primer.

I'd use IT instead of ANY variety of Kilz.
* How a primer goes on is absolutely NO indicator of its quality. BIN primer from Zinsser is a fairly "thin" primer, but it's one of the best indoor primers/stain/smoke-blockers out there...period.
* Also- a primer doesn't need to completely "visually hide" a previous color to be doing its job!! Most primers aren't as opaque as paint.
* A primer is MAINLY for increased adhesion. A secondary benefit/function at best...is aiding in a big color change.
* Primer CAN be applied too thin though!! If you're pushing a roller-load more than 2'x3', it's getting too thin. I cringe when I see people painting on TV!!! They're just willy-nilly rolling out paint as large as 5'x5'....WAAAYYYY TOOO THIN.

Plz. find out if your DH did in fact rinse the walls. After most TSP versions, 2 or 3 separate rinse-passes are needed.

>>> That's why I hammer so hard on POWDERED Dirtex!
Rinsing RARELY needed, unless you're cleaning-up after a smoker....

Faron

I will find out if he rinsed. I'll try to make contact today. He's flying all over the place today.

What if he did NOT rinse???? Then what? That's when the new drywall plan kicks in right?

I've got the "small area" thing on my side never spread it too far and too thin.....

Since I never tried the 123 you have to understand my concern...I wasn't bashing the product, just myself for trying something "new".

I'm about to go in that room, and do the early morning evaluation of the color....there's a little birdie telling me "it's too dark. you really screwed this up"...oh brother.

thanks again
Bee

Hi Faron, well, I've caught the Beekeeper before he gets onto a plane this am....

bad news

No rinse

Now what?

Blow Torch?

Gut it back to the studs? (can you imagine if that is the answer? You know I'd be saying, "well as long as we are taking it back to the studs, lets replace the tub, the vanity, the toilet!)

Seriously, what do I need to do now?

So far the peeps on Home Decor forum are voting to keep the dark purple. This is quite shocking to me, I thought for sure they would say to ditch it.

omm omm

BKW-

LOL! No I should've phrased it better....I wasn't bashing any product! I meant...No need to bash down any walls!
Sorry!

IMO-
Considering the "history" of the wall, I'd just go ahead & put 2 full coats of the "Winning" color over your Zinsser 123 primer.
* What sheen is the new color?
* Remember good paint/tools techniques here: Top-notch 9" x 3/8" roller-cover (Purdy White-dove or Wooster Pro-Dooz).
* Do all cutting-in 1st!
* Apply in ~2'x3' sections per roller-load. Do 4 loads in a vertical column 3' wide. You'll have Four 2'x3' "blocks" vertically now.
* After the 4 blocks are done, bring unloaded roller to the top of the column and LIGHTLY/SMOOTHLY do a continuous "sweep" ceiling-to-floor over your just painted column. You'll do ~4 of these vertical "sweeps" per column of course.
* Repeat around the room.
* Same technique for 2nd coat.

>>> Now...don't touch anything on the wall for a few days!!
Give everything time to meld together, and to the wall.

Faron

Faron, you're the best!

I will be using BM's Aura Bath & Spa paint. I am planning on using the Aura roller. I used that roller on my bedroom when I did that room with an Aura paint, it was quite dreamy. No roller lint or lines. I think I might need a new roller holder thingy. The roller kept slipping on the holder when I was applying the primer and I kept having to adjust it. What a pain!

Your "directions" are quite impressive. I have no idea what that means! lol Since I don't think that there is anywhere in this room that is even 3' wide, I'm guessing I'll be fine! The ceiling is another story.

The winning color was BM Nimbus, btw.

Thanks so much,
Bee

Well you're on your way then BKW!

Yeah...my technique coaching is best illustrated by using a "full wall" example.
Yes, for cut-up bathroom walls, you have to alter it a bit of course!

Definitely get a new roller-frame! Purdy has a good wood-handled frame with a good stiff 1/4" frame-rod.

You could even use a smaller cover and frame in a bath.
"Hot-Dog" rollers and covers are what they're called in the trade...

Just remember....give everything TIME!!!

Faron