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stephanie_flynn

Painting Interior Cedar Shake Wall

Pines Everywhere
10 years ago

Hi Painters -- me again. The nice folks in the Decorating Forum helped me decide to keep a Cedar Shake wall in my Living Room.

Any advice on how to paint it?

I want full coverage and I want it to look like the whole wall was dipped in paint. LOL. I think I'm going with WHITE and I'm not afraid of detail brush work.

Before picture below (ignore the dog and the weird shake corner and hanging lamp -- I've already removed those shakes).

Comments (18)

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Inspiration Photo from a Home Decorator -- I love this look, however, these WHITE painted shakes still look "grainy". I need to know how many coats and what type of paint will cover the coarse grain of the Shakes.

    Thanks to anyone that reads or responds. :)

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    Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
    10 years ago

    you will never be able to cover the grain

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Well, I didn't mean the grain per se -- but at least those coarse/fuzzy occasional shakes. Should I sand them?

    Aren't you gonna suggest which primer? which sheen for the paint?

    Should I use a Zinsser product to prime this time?

  • paintguy22
    10 years ago

    I would use at least a 3/4" nap sleeve and then once the paint is on there, use a brush to get in all the grooves that the roller didn't reach and then roll it again lightly to face it off. It's hard to tell if you need to prime or not from the pic...if they are raw, then prime them. It's probably not a normal thing to sand something like this. The rough texture is probably appropriate for what they are.

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks Paintguy -- I'm surprised you mentioned a roller -- I wouldn't have even tried that -- I would have just brushed them all.

    Most of the edges are raw. Maybe I should prime/seal them because they are so "soft". I suspect they are going to just soak up paint.

    What primer/seal would be best?

  • paintguy22
    10 years ago

    The roller just helps to get the stuff on faster, which can be especially helpful for painting porous surfaces when you would have to do a lot of dipping. I would use CoverStain.

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks Paintguy!

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Okay, I went shopping for Cover Stain and got really confused.

    Which Cover Stain primer do I need -- the Oil-Based version?

    I need to prime the Cedar Shake wall, paneled walls and stained beams.

    Paintguy, Christophern, anyone? Help.

  • paintguy22
    10 years ago

    Yea, it's the oil based version. I didn't even think there was a latex version of this. 123 is Zinsser's latex primer.

  • paintguy22
    10 years ago

    Yea, it's the oil based version. I didn't even think there was a latex version of this. 123 is Zinsser's latex primer.

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks again Paintguy -- CoverStain (with the Gold/Brown Label) also has a version that says "Advanced Formula Water-Base" in a Blue Stripe label right under the CoverStain name.

    I figured for all my weird materials ... I needed the Oil but wanted to make sure.

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    So -- I'm priming this Cedar Shake wall and I'm finding some of these gaps .... REALLY unsightly. Some gaps are filling up with primer, others are not.

    Can I caulk between Cedar Shakes to close the large gaps?
    Cedar is so soft, I am not sure if the caulking will work.

    Help, please.

  • paintguy22
    10 years ago

    Yes, caulk will work fine.

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks Paintguy --

    While I have your attention (and please don't be mad or frustrated with me) -- I decided to go with a Latex-Based Stain Blocking Primer because I work out of the house and couldn't handle the fumes. I am using SW Prep-Rite Pro-Block which I was hesitant about but it is covering fine.

    EXCEPT, some of my shakes ... and some of my paneling ... are browning as the dry. I am a little concerned and I am hoping this is the "stain" interacting with the "primer".

    What do you think?

  • paintguy22
    10 years ago

    I think this is why we use oil based or shellac based primers to kill stains and tannin bleed. I'm not a big fan of the latex primers that claim they kill stains because I have tried many and they don't kill stains. It's just another example of manufacturers essentially lying with what they print on the cans by saying a primer will do something it doesn't. Then when you complain, of course they can say oh well it kills some stains but not all. However, from what I understand from painters using actual latex and acrylic primers to kill stains, you need to let them dry for 24 hours to perform their stain killing duties. I'm not saying this will work for you....just that some primers do work and this is the method. Another thing you can do if the stains are not widespread is buy an aerosol can or two of Kilz and just spot prime the areas that are bleeding and then go ahead with your topcoats. Of course, if the stains are all over the place then this could be a pain.

  • Pines Everywhere
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks for your assessment Paintguy.

    The stains were random, all over but surprisingly they did dissipate with drying. I took the photos into SW and the experts on staff and half-a-dozen painters were helping me. LOL. Everyone agreed (like you said) that oil would have alleviated this but ... they also said ... it is fine as the Primer is doing its job. They also said I don't even need a second coat unless I am freaking out about it.

    Most unusual thing we all noticed ... was why the stain bleed was more apparent on my 'brushed areas' around the ceiling line vs. my rolled areas (which stayed bleed free). The thinking was my strokes/brush was more heavy handed and penetrated the paneling grooves whereas my rolling was with a smooth roller and very light/topical.

    I think I am going to totally 'roll' on a second coat (definitely on the paneling). Tx!

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