I can't really tell in the picture if it is just the glazing falling out or the actual wood. Anyway, I'm not much of an expert glazer but you can look on YouTube for glazing videos to see how it is done. What you want to buy is DAP's 33 Glazing. You also want to read the directions on the can as to the painting of the glazing. I believe you need an oil based primer and should wait at least 2 weeks before applying the primer to fresh glazing.

Here is a link that might be useful: Glazing video

What may be most important is to get o coat of oil primer on the molding BEFORE the glaze( and after)

Yep....HUGE points by Chrisn & PG here!!!!

Once the channels are cleaned-out so no loose &/or rotten wood remains...

>>> VERY IMPORTANT to get an OIL primer into the channels that will receive the glazing/glass-panels.

* If ya don't, the dry wood will pull oils out of the glazing, making it crack/dry out too soon.
* Ideally, use a long-dry Oil primer. These will need a day to dry out and slightly penetrate the old wood.
* Now, you've got a good "bed" to receive the putty and glass.
* And depending on weather conditions, thick glazing puttys dry out slooooowww. If ya prime-'em too soon AFTER installation, the escaping/curing oil-resins will push-off the primer.
* Remember....OIL prime 1 day b4 glazing AND maybe the ~2 WEEKS after glazing.

Faron

Thanks very much for these great suggestions. I'm glad I checked here first.

Just to be sure I understand: am I correct that the oil based primer/DAP 33 goes on the molding area only?

There is also cracked paint on the window proper below, as you can see. I was going to use ordinary woody putty to smooth the area out and use primer and exterior paint. Does that seem about right?

By the way, I wanted to clarify something. Re paintguy's question, what seems to be dropping out is the wood itself, though I imagine the glazing itself isn't so hot either. Does this change the way I attack this problem? Thanks.

Well I can certainly see some glazing missing and the cracked glazing should be removed and replaced too. Once you start picking at it, the loose stuff should come out pretty easily. You do not have to remove the glazing that is still stuck well, but usually what happens is the window doesn't look great when you have some new glazing and some old. But, that is just the way it goes when you are dealing with old windows. The rule with glazing is that it is only meant for one thing and that is bridging the gap between the wood and the glass. It's not a general purpose putty really to be used anywhere else because it remains soft for so long. If that is actual wood that has fallen out, then yes wood filler is the way to go, but it looks like a pretty big gap...any chance you can pull that whole strip of wood out and replace it? I would look into that.

Well you know, I am not actually at the house so I think that I should reserve judgment as to whether it is wood or glazing. Having seen some of the videos on Youtube I think it may be glazing after all.

Awesome information. Wish GardenWeb had a "LIKE" button like FaceBook!

You might also want to post this on the Old House forum. There are several people over there who have refurbished their windows.

I have refurbished probably 3 or 400 myself. Without seeing it or asking the right questions it is hard to explain what exact steps need to be taken. Those windows look to be in sad shape, like replacement might be the way to go, but who knows?

I just had a quick question about the oil-based primer that it's been suggested I use. I have some Rustoleum primer that I've used on metal furniture. Would that be OK to use?

It usually will say on the can of primer what is it made to be used on. You probably don't want to use anything fast drying though.

Yeah, good point. It doesn't say on the label but if you go online and look at the technical specs, it says to apply to heavily rusted metal only. So I guess I'll have to pick me up some oil-based wood primer.