She was set to use BM Satin Impervo (from my recommendation - I've never actually used it) but the store that carries BM paint, doesn't have that kind. We were then going to use Regal but then after a quick search I found an old thread ...

Posted by paintguy (My Page) on Tue, Feb 3, 09 at 19:07
I think you are right. Usually what I do when I need a semi gloss is use Aura or go somewhere other than Benjamin Moore. Satin Impervo is okay but their semi-gloss is just bad. It may be more durable, but applying the actual paint itself is not fun and this is coming from a painter. I can't pour enough extender into that paint to make it flow.

That's making me want to run far away. Thought about using SW Pro Classic but heard scary stuff about that being tough to paint too which is why I thought I was going to be safe with the Impervo. The learning curve of Aura also makes me want to run.

Thougths for a DIYer?

My next question is the glaze, she's set on using water based paint. How long after the 2nd coat do you need to wait to apply a glaze?

After the glaze, I'm assuming we'd want to use a (water based) poly but how soon can that be applied? Do we need to wait only a few days? Or a full month until after the paint cures?

I do know we need to do proper cleaning, sanding, priming etc.

Thanks in advance!

My sister decided on SW Antique White for color and I didn't think CC could be tinted. It looks like they have a variety of creamy colors and I'm sure one is similar to what she wants. I'm going to look into that more today, thanks!

Graywings - I called my hardware store and the girl at the register insisted on trying to answer my question. *sigh* I ended up calling Cabinet Coat and they can tint it so that's what we're going to go with I believe. I need to check about finish though. I thought it came in semi gloss and the girl at the hardware store told me just satin. Is that's going to be shiny enough to work glaze?

Anyone have any thoughts about the glaze/polys?

Thanks!

Also keep in mind one paint brands satin is another paint brands semi.

But do search Farons review on Ace Cabinet,Door and Trim.

Make sure the C-Coat TINT-BASE it used!!!
NOT the stock "White".
Even if you're just doing an Off-White.
* They consider it a "Satin", and I do think it's slightly less shiny than ACE's S/G version.
* The ACE will have much more color-choice, since they have all the tint-bases.
* CC can only go to medium-pastel tones in their tint-base.

As long as you're in the Satin sheen area, glazing is fine.
I'd wait a few days for the paint itself to harden-off some b4 glazing.
I'm NOT a fan of the glazed look...to me (IMO), it just looks "dirty" all the time. I'd recommend against it actually! MAY be somewhat of a detriment at sale time...

We purposely don't stock any cab-dedicated glazes, other than normal paint-glazes, which can be used too. Rarely get asked for it...it seems to have come-&-gone to a degree!

Faron

They carried the much vaunted primer STIX, that is a bonding primer and usable on ... plastic. I'm using it on melamine. Those 1980s white cabinets that look so clean, yet now look so dated?

And....
More importantly, they could tint the Cabinet Coat the color I was already using on the wooden cabinets. Duron's Rugged Road (I think. I'll have to look.) But my point is that it was more than a pastel and they made it work just fine. It's an extremely gray green or green gray. The light changes it.

The point about the tintable base is not debatable. They must have that in stock or you can't successfully tint the white. It's something to do with the hardening factor, it was explained to me.

On their recommendation, and the fact that I'm not so thrilled with how the dark base cabinet color I'm suing is going on, I'm giving them a coat of the same oil-based primer I'm using on all the wooden uppers, then a final coat of the same dark paint. I love the color. I was shocked at how satin smooth the primer was on the upper wood cabinets. I (almost) can't wait to paint all of them.

Be careful with glazing. People tend to go too heavy and it not only looks dirty all the time, it looks like "oh, someone's first glazing project." Remember that like vermouth, cyanne pepper, and applying perfume, you can always add more, but you can't remove what you've already done. Start light and think coats. An already wet cheesecloth has always worked well. But that's another thread.

Good luck.
C.

Not the cheapest...$40/gal, but d*mn good stuff!

Yes- DON'T have anyone try to tint C-Coat in the White-Base.
HAS TO be the "Tint-base". Even for a very light color.

Faron

I really did not find it difficult to work with. You just have to paint fairly fast, don't go back over what you have already painted because it does get sticky fast. But it is workable enought that you have time to do the job right. I did one coat of primer and two coats of paint.

I will use it again on my kitchen cabinets - when I have the time.

Tuesday