Just re-reading my post and realized the product is called OLD Masters (sorry I got the name wrong!) So does anyone know if this stuff can be thickened or if there is a similar product that is thicker for faux-graining?

April,
I just wood grained my cabinets. I did not use a graining tool. I used a gel stain (minwax) 2 step process and truly love my out come. I'm not sure what you are starting with but here are my cabinets. They were originally dark walnut that i painted creamy white and then red. I would suggest spending some time truly looking at maple cabinets and pick a base color lighter than what you see. For example cherry has a red base, oak- orange, walnut- brown. The wood graining came from the application of the stain and color I used. I am no expert and got some advice from a professional faux painter but would help you as best I can because I am so thrilled with mine.

Cab's before

Pictures of base color and each application of stain, just to show how each layer darkens.

Base color with two the two gel stains i used:

Finished cab's w/ semi gloss poly:

Close up:

Hope this helps- it is certainly doable!

Hi NeverEnding!

They are beautiful! What process did you use for the staining and what kind of paint did you use for the base? And I have to ask... did you paint the insides? (I can't decide about that one). Mine are those ugly dark-stained plywood frames with off-white formica glued to the doors, fresh from the 70's. I can't decide whether to peel off the formica and sand off the old adhesive or just prep and paint over the formica. I haven't figured out how to post a photo but here is the link to photobucket.

Thanks!

April

Here is a link that might be useful: my 70s kitchen

April,

No I didn't do the insides, lazy I guess! :-) Gosh I don't know what to tell you about taking off the formica,there is a certain comfort level with all diy's - are you fairly handy? I will tell you with the right kind of primer you can go right over the formica and that may be the easiest method.

My paint was a satin finish and I only washed them well before I began the staining. Gel stain is thick like pudding with a consistency like jello. Mineral Spirits is used to erase and take up mistakes (I wiped down three doors and went back and re-did them because I didn't like what I was seeing); it also is used to thin the gel down to make it more spreadable, but you should play with it to see what it does for you. Cherry wood is a tightly grained wood with very fine grain marks, so without thinning it slightly the grain strokes were heavier more rustic.

To make the wood grain I just used a foam applicator brush, but you could use a regular brush too, but I liked the way the foam handled for me.

Okay-
I took down my doors and did my cabinet frames first and then moved to the doors.

I used Minwax Aged Oak, the lighter brown, as the first base over my paint, I just lightly covered the surface(fairly fast) and then took an old wash cloth to lightly pounce and add texture to the area, just to break it up and add the subtle color variations you see in regular wood. I let this all dry 24 hrs because it can be tacky. Then I moved on to my second coat of stain which was Mahogany. This coat I thinned down slightly and covered with basic up and down strokes until I was satisfied with the grain appearance and eveness of color, then I would move on. Occasionally as I was spreading and brushing out the stain I would leave some heavier feathered area's like you will see in real wood.

I did spend quite a few days looking at anything wooden just to see grain patterns and colorations to get an idea what I would want to accomplish as I was brushing on the grain. Playing around with the gel on any painted scrap gives you a better idea of how it will handle. The painter I consulted was right on about you will know it when you see it and she recommended studying grain pattern and practice to get a feel for your colors and techniques because there is only so much you you can describe.

I then waited another 24hrs until it was no longer tacky and then gave everything a coat of semi-gloss poly.

The whole project (not painting-cause they were already red) took one three day weekend. It was alot of fun but a heart in your throat adventure because I had never done any faux painting before! So So worth it!!! Ben Moore has some very nice browns that you may want to look into as a base coats. Had my red paint been a reddish brown I would have probably just gone over it once with Mahogany.

Hopefully I answered you, but if not I will be glad to check back to answer any other questions that may come up. : )

Thanks, NeverEnding! Wonderful information as well as inspiration!

So I went back to the paint store where I bought the maple stain, and I got the gel stain version in the same color and same brand. Hmmm... it's too thick. Well if the wiping stain is too thin and the gel stain is too thick... does anyone see any reason why I couldn't thin the gel with a spoonful of the wiping stain? I know I could thin it with a pinch of mineral spirits but I already have the stain, so it seems like a reasonable idea. If it's a bad idea I hope someone speaks up!

I als managed to find a good color match for the basecoat in BM Maple Sugar, and I think I will try that in the Impervo waterborne for the base. I think I am very close to having a winning combination here.

Thanks!

April

Good for you! You will be so pleased. I am not sure about combining the two, in theory it makes sense but chemically the two bases may be different, and from my own reading I think gel stain uses a different pigment for color.

Make sure to stir well and play around with it. Mineral spirits will do a lot for the spreadability, and a little of it goes a long way!

Good luck and keep us posted. I'm sure they'll be beautiful!