oil will yellow over time

I've heard that you should specify a "non-blocking" paint to prevent sticking.

Oil or latex, you should really try to avoid having painted surfaces touching other painted surfaces.

Many companies have been phasing-out Oils for years now.

ACE/Valspar is phasing-out their remaining Oil line, & IS NOT compatible with the newer 0-VOC Acrylic colorants that we're now phasing-in. Most ACE/Valspar dealers will be on the new system by years-end. We're a bigger retailer, so we got our new tinters/colorants last fall.

>>> We can no longer tint Oils!!

For a few years now, the better choice for Cabinets & Woodwork, are the "Hybrid" paints, which are Waterborne-Alkyds. Also, there's a form of Polyurethane-resin(s) in this class of paints. These also "level" better too...assuming one doesn't "overwork" the paint.

Check with an FPE-Retailer too. They do still import some STUNNING Gloss Oils. Your prep-work to show this stuff off HAS to be impeccable though! They have some awesome Hybrids though too. Prices though? Wellllll...open your wallet wider than normal...

Faron

My wallet is not big enough to afford that stuff! :-)

I've been using the Ben Moore Satin Impervo and it seems to be fine, yielding a tougher, much better looking finish than the water-based enamels I've tried, which I've found extremely hard to get a smooth finish with and found that they remained rubbery and subject to damage for many years. I do add some Penetrol to improve brushability--the brush seems to drag in the unmodified stuff. Our trim colors are all things where a little yellowing will not be noticeable.

I just came across this older post--and have a comment.
I recently renovated my childhood home. The old cabinets were painted with oil BM Impervo. Looks fabulous. The painter misunderstood me and used latex on the adjacent doors. The difference is day and night. The gloss is significantly less and brushstrokes are very much more evident. As long as they keep making it in oil, I'm going to keep using it.