Can't help with info on painting, but you could get a teak floor mat.

Here is a link that might be useful: teak floor mat

I think your best bet would be to lay some tile. But, if you are painting it, you do not have to remove all the paint. Just make sure you remove anything that is loose...anything stuck solid is okay to paint over. I don't know what Ox-O-Deck is, but I think a 100 percent acrylic coating might be best if you are not going with epoxy. I could be wrong though....been a while since I painted a floor. You will want to follow the instructions to the letter on the can when it comes to cleaning and/or etching the concrete because that is what will make the paint stick.

Well, I spent some hours over the past couple of days chipping and scraping paint off of that floor, but I still don't know what to do after that or what product to use for painting. I don't want to end up with another flaking mess. I don't think the stuff I got is going to work.

Tile would be better. It seems like overkill for a very little-used shower in a bathroom that's stuck in the corner of the laundry room, but maybe I'll look into what would be involved.

Here's a simple suggestion.

Instead of repainting or using tiles, you could lay flat pebbles as a shower floor. Bags of them can be bought for a song from craft stores, or found free for the picking on beaches.

You'd still need to remove the old paint (all of it, not just the flaky stuff) and float some mortar in which to imbed the pebbles, then grout and seal.

The finished product looks good and feels good to the feet.

If you Google pebble shower you'll find several illustrations of what I am suggesting.

Tile would be better. It seems like overkill for a very little-used shower in a bathroom that's stuck in the corner of the laundry room, but maybe I'll look into what would be involved.

That's why the teak floor mat would work so well. It would hide the ugly shower floor and give the user something clean and comfortable to stand on. You can custom order the exact size of your shower stall. Look at the link below - you could even put a small bench in the shower.

Here is a link that might be useful: Custom teak shower floor

I was wondering actually!

Stab in the dark to see if harrietthehomeowner is available to answer this question 7 years later: How long did the pool paint hold up? I'm looking at doing the exact same project and keep getting different suggestions about how to tackle this. Thank you!

I have a very similar scenario going on...I have a +65 year old home with a basement shower stall...concrete base. I have future plans to do a complete bathroom makeover some day, but am not quite ready to do that...and didn't want to commit to doing tile or pebbles as mentioned, only to tear it out again years from now. ...and I just decided to re-paint. I contacted Rust-Oleum support, and they do make a product called "XIM Tile-Doc"http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/xim/specialty-products/tile-doc-epoxy-acrylic-coating/ I recently ordered on eBay, and will give this product a try. It claims to hold up to hot soapy water.

Rust-Oleum said this was ok to use on concrete? I just etched the shower stall yesterday. That was awful work and I think my life span was reduced a little.

Yes, I filled out their contact form and described how I had one of these concrete bases for a shower stall...I got a reply back a couple days later that their most appropriate application would be to try the XIM Tile Doc product.

I used JASCO 15 min. Epoxy/paint remover...got most of the paint stripped off, but may need to try some muriatic acid as well before I apply the fresh epoxy.

Thanks!

Wear a respirator. The confinement of the shower stall made the fumes unbearable.

Also, will you use a primer sealer?

I was considering that. ....but the preparation instructions on the XIM Tile Doc do not mention using a primer/sealer....nor did the couple of how-to vids I saw. I trust that it would have been mentioned in the application steps. I may do a follow-up question to Rustoleum on that as well.

We have a similar shower situation to harriethomeowner. House was built in 1956, with basement shower with painted cinderblock walls and a painted (and peeling) concrete floor. The walls are in pretty good condition, just UGLY green paint. I'd like to do a simple update to this space -- we'll be moving in a couple of years, so I don't want to sink a ton of $$ into it, but it needs to be freshened up. I think the least expensive option is just to repaint, but I don't know what kind of paint was used before. A lot of the basement trim/doors appears to be a glossy oil-based paint and the shower floor is the same color, so possibly it is the same? Not sure about the walls. I'm thinking just scrape up as much of the loose flaking paint as possible, clean the floor and walls with TSP, dry well, prime and repaint? But what primer and paint is best? I'm wondering how the pool paint held up? How about the XIM Tile paint?

@jderden The XIM Tile Doc epoxy paint is still holding up very well...no peeling. ...going on about 3 years hot soapy showers.

I stripped as much of the paint layers as I could until I got to mostly exposed concrete... I probably didn't have to go to that length ...however not knowing the exact nature of the previous paint work...I thought it would still be best to avoid as much of a mismatch in paint types, and risk having the new paint job peel off. The XIM first layer acts more like a primer/sealer and gets pulled into the porous concrete surface I needed to do a second coat...and be sure to have good ventilation when applying.