You can have an efficient pantry in a 22" space. But with the 30" depth-- it will take some serious pull-outs. Can you post a pic? Most pull-out are going to be 22 1/2" deep.

Cathy

You could use the standard depth of pullouts, and have some serious back-of-the-door pockets (they can hold lightweight stuff like cereal and chips).

Or you can have the pullouts custom-made which ALL those sources I gave you will do. (As will a local woodworkers)

You'll want full-extension slides, of course; fortunately, the full-extension type that work w/ those brackets come in 28" lengths, $25 per pair, if you buy 5 or more pairs, (and 26", if you like).

You'll lose about an inch at the back of a cabinet just for the back itself.

Talley_Sue_nyc: Thanks so much for your incredibly detailed response. I wasn't aware that full-extension glide hardware for shelf standards even existed. I used those standards in my closet. Your response set me to thinking: I could attach full-extension pullouts to sturdy shelves and then set the shelves into those standards using normal shelf brackets. The shelves would take up a bit more room but might add a lot of bottom strength to each pullout. It's a thought. I wonder if standard shelf brackets could support a lot of weight....

clink: I don't have a photo to post (don't even know HOW to post yet!), but just imagine a 22-inch-wide coat closet that is 30 inches deep: three walls and a door opening, only the space goes up 14 feet. That's all there is to the space.

I don't think you need to double up by putting each pullout on top of an additionalshelf. That seems like a waste of money and time--plus, most pullout glides (most drawer glides) are designed to attach to the SIDES of drawer and cabinet, NOT underneath. So it would be hard to get the shelf to actually support the pullout.

A well-made pullout will hold a LOT. Like, a hundred pounds or more. A well-made drawer/pullout won't have the bottom drop out of it (that's all a pullout it--a shallow drawer). (it's only the crappy ones in assemble-it-yourself furniture that give way--the bottom is too thin and flexible, and it's set in too wide of a dado).

I think those slotted shelf brackets will hold a lot, as well. They'd be more than sufficient for a pantry.

Think about it--they hold up books, which are VERY dense, and very heavy. They're attached snug to the wood (sometimes set into a groove) at SEVERAL places.

So especially if you laid canned goods on their sides, and therefore only had a single layer of cans for each shelf, and spaced them close together (more shelves = less stuff on each shelf), there would be no weight problems.

Those adjustable clips won't work. If you set a fully-loaded pull-out shelf on them, and then pull out the shelf, the back end will tip up, spilling everything.

In addition, the entire weight, front-to-back, would be on the front 2 clips. They are not designed to carry that much weight.

You can get bottom-mounted Full-Extension pull out shelves at slidingshelf.com or kitchenslidingshelves.com . Many different shapes, shallow or tall. These would install on top of the permanent shelves you invisioned. (not adjustable)

Here is a link that might be useful: slidingshelf.com

talley_sue_nyc and sliging_specialist: Thanks so much for your very detailed responses once again. I have to tell you that I spent three hours in The Container Store in San Francisco this past weekend, and I think that the simplest solution for me will be to use their Elfa runner frames and drawers in the "medium" width (18 inches). I will be able to stack one 10-runner and one 7-runner frame, giving me the possibility of 17 drawers that are about 17 inches wide, 20 inches deep, and 4 inch high on the sides. Placing as many things as possible on their sides, like soup cans/boxes, pasta boxes, etc., should make this work. I would have two inches on either side of the frames to hang things on the side walls of the pantry or to rest them on the floor, such as a stepstool I recently saw that folds to less than two inches thickness.

All of this hinges on making sure that my builder can put a door frame and door on this space that leaves me with an opening that is at least 18 inches wide. So I will be pursuing that question with him.

Thanks again, everyone, for all your ideas and concern.

Those adjustable clips won't work. If you set a fully-loaded pull-out shelf on them, and then pull out the shelf, the back end will tip up, spilling everything.

This is NOT TRUE!!

If you look at the drawings of those clips, you'll see that they are designed to be *BOLTED* to the drawer slides (and the drawer slides are FASTENED W/SCREWS to the sides of the pullout--the shelf is not simply " set on" the drawer slides). Then the clips slip into the slots of the standards. When you pull out the drawer/pullout, the last section of the drawer slides REMAINS FASTENED to the clips, which will remain in the slots of the standards.

There are people on our own kitchens forum who have kitchen pantries w/ these adjustable clips for their pullout shelves/drawers, and like them a lot. I've posted over there to see if we can find someone w/ first-hand experience w/ them.

Those clips & standards hold BOOKS in libraries--so they can certainly hold the weight of a single kitchen-pantry pullout. How much do you think a pullout holds? Not enough stuff to weight more than 100 pounds, probably. a *BIG* can of beans weigh 16 ounces; how many can you fit on a pullout shelf? Not 100, that's for sure!

And if you were going to give up the adjustability, and use bottom-mount slides to fastene them to permanently mounted shelves, why not save yourself a ton of trouble, and simply use SIDE-MOUNTED DRAWER SLIDES? Why go through the *extra* step of installing permanent SHELVES?

Also, bottom-mounted drawer slides are more limited in selection, and can be more expensive--so bottom-mounted slides attached to permanent mounted shelves is just silly.

sliding_specialist--do you have a business connection w/ the "sliding shelves" link you posted? Or is that similarity in naming a coincidence?