Hi Connie, I am not familiar with Buttons n Bows. A new to me Camellia that I highly recommend to my rose loving friend is Winter's Rose. It is a dwarf camellia with lovely light pink flowers. It has been covered with flowers for the last few weeks. Winter Snowman is one that grows very upright for me. It blooms for about six weeks in November and December. I visited Camellia Forest in NC for their annual open house last year and picked up several that are doing well. They have a large selection of cold hardy plants. One that they highly recommended for cold hardiness is Gov. Mouton. I will have to check out Little Five Azalea Farm. There is also a couple who sell camellias at the Gordon Road Farmer's Market on Rt 3. Kathy Here is a link that might be useful: Winter's rose

Depends on your conditions really. There is no best mix to repot them. As long as it drains freely and stays on the moist side anything is ok. I've grown Miranda in a variety of mixes over the years, it isn't particular. Most of my Nepenthes are in some combination of cocohusk chunks, orchid bark, charcoal, perlite, long fibered spaghnum moss. If you grow it inside you may need more sphagnum in your mix or need to water it more often if your mix is less moisture retaining. If you plan to grow it outside and it's humid where you are you can get away with less sphag to none. Miranda is a good plant to experiment on and learn what mix is best for your particular conditions and growing style. Just know that it will probably sulk, stop pitchering and growing temporarily after a repot. That's normal, they don't like to be messed with, so don't assume it didn't like what you repotted it in right away. Give it a few months before you decide you've made a mistake and want to re-repot it if it still isn't happy.

Lellie, being in zone 9 in Florida means that you can take your pick of most passis. The heat you have during the summer rules out most of the Tasconias (high mountain species), but I can't think of many others. Natives are always a good place to start--p. incarta, p. lutea, p. foetida and p. pallens are all native to Florida (or at least certain varieties of them are). Other passiflora species, such as p. caerulea, p. edulis, p. quadrangularis, p. actinia and p. alata will grow very happily for you. The hybrids Incense, Lady Margaret and Amethyst will do very well for you. You have a lot of options. I've heard on occasion that some passis don't have a high salt tolerance, but this doesn't seem to be a major issue and I'm not certain which species those may be at any rate. Probably the best thing for you to do is head over to the library or bookstore (whichever you prefer) and get copies of John Vanderplank's "Passion Flowers" and Torsten Ulmenr & John MacDougal's "Passiflora: Passion Flowers of the World." Those books are invaluable references and contain a great amount of useful information. I believe the latter is currently available via Amazon for $15 or so in hardback. I've got a bunch of incarnata seed on hand currently. If you're interested, I'll send you some for a SASE. Let me know.

OK, I'm back. Here's my stab at it. Others will tell you if something I say won't work. This is all referring to your plan, not the current kitchen. I have exactly the same distance -- 7'3" -- right now b/t my sink and fridge. Granted, the stove is 6' from the fridge and the sink is 11' from the stove and all the counters are separated from each other by doorways and more. Terrible setup. There is no taking things from one place/zone, pivoting or short steps to put in the next zone. I have to take several steps. Your distances b/t the other two appliances are shorter than mine, but I don't see an easy way to get things from the fridge, clean/prep them, and take them to cook. All those involve more than a pivot or one or two steps. We ended up putting a rolling cart in the middle of the kitchen, which helped with that, but it always felt like it was in the way, we were always having to shift it one way or another to get around it or into things. Is the pellet set in a place that it can't be moved? Before I saw it I wondered if you could switch your LR and DR and have columns to replace the wall b/t the LR and kitchen. If no, then forget what I'm about to say. I also realize that the LR is much bigger than the DR, so maybe this could work just to borrow a little space from the LR and keep the DR where you have it. If you have a more formal LR though, you probably won't want to do it this way. But let's just say it is possible. Here's what I see. I may be biased by my own layout, but you can try it on for size anyway. - Open the LR to the kitchen with columns for support. - This would eliminate the run of cabinets by the fridge. - Start your cabinets on the next (stove) wall. Put a tall pantry cabinet in the corner on that wall. To its left, put the fridge with the side panels. To its left, a run of counter and upper and lower cabinets. - Turn the corner. Allow enough space for the range; move the window to the left to accommodate it. - Move the sink to the left to allow recommended counter space b/t stove and sink. - Instead of a door there, continue the lower cabinets further along. They could go another 2' and still allow more than 36" for clearance to get into the DR without changing that wall. - Start the window to the left of the MW cabinet and center the sink if you like, or have upper cabinets if you need them, and start the window at the sink. (My vote would be to start them at the stove and go to the end run of cabinets. You can center the windows above this run and center the sink with the windows. If you have any kind of view to the left as you are standing at the sink, the uppers on the left side will drive you crazy (or would me). - Replace the middle bay with a door. - In the middle of the kitchen, 42-48" from the counters, run an island parallel to the sink run, 6'x36-39" with seating. This would leave a 42" aisle to the left of the island from the DR through the kitchen. If it doesn't work to switch the LR and DR, I still have another idea. - Leave the long wall b/t kitchen and LR alone. Instead, add 18" to the 12" section. Move the peninsula 30" into the kitchen and down to butt up against your new 30" wall. Your doorway to the LR will be 3.5'. Your peninsula will extend in the same direction and to whatever extent you want, leaving clearance. - Keep the same L-shaped plan as above for your kitchen work zones. - In the middle of the kitchen, put a smaller island for landing and work space, leaving 42-48" for working aisles, 36" for passage aisles. A 4'x2' island running parallel to the sink would give you some workspace and some storage and a 36" aisle b/t it and the peninsula. - An alternate to the peninsula: make the cabinets in the DR next to it 12", bring the peninsula 3' out and make it an island, 3.5'x4', with its long middle where the wall is. I'm assuming you will have something for support? Columns or a beam or both? GW thread on islands with columns Island with columns If you like that look, google "Kitchen island with columns" to find more One other thought: if you were to put the stove on the outside wall, would you consider getting a regular hood? We are trading our OTR MW for a full hood and separate MW. I don't know about your OTR, but mine is no good at clearing the air when cooking and is way too noisy. I hope that is all clear and somewhat helpful.