"wait, wait...are you saying I can put six HUNDRED plants in a 10x10 plot???" Those yields are based upon a degree of soil conditioning that is very labor-intensive... and while I have read of such recommendations, I have yet to see photos, or hear first-hand observations, proving that they would work for most gardeners. All of the digging aside, in my area, I'd be flirting with disaster if I crowded my beans that closely. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it. Most bush beans - when healthy & mature - have a footprint of 1/2 - 1 sq. ft. or larger. 100 plants (1 per sq. ft.) should be a safe bet; I've successfully used 6" between plants w/ 2-foot spacing between rows, which is close to the same thing. You might be able to get away with 2-3 plants per sq. ft. for the more compact varieties. Crowding more closely than that may work in the warm dry climate of California; but in the cooler, wetter Northern climes, it could lead to severe disease problems. I'm not saying that it wouldn't work... just that I wouldn't put all my eggs in that one basket, unless/until small-scale trials proved it to be successful. In a post above, I had mentioned "seed efficiency". To put that in perspective, large kidney beans are somewhere in the neighborhood of 40-60 seeds per ounce. If planted at the recommended bio-intensive density of 600+ for a 10' X 10' plot, you would need between 10-16 ounces of seed to plant... so you would need to buy (or save from the previous season) a pound of seed. Assuming you harvest 24 pounds of dry seed (which is, keep in mind, the best case scenario), it would represent a return of between 24/1 & 38/1, depending upon seed size. Most gardeners would get much less than that, since the maximum is for experienced gardeners, on well amended soil. In contrast, my observations are that large-seeded bush beans, given the 6" plant/2' row spacing I mentioned above, are easily capable of a seed increase of between 50/1 - 100/1. Small-seeded types will tend to yield about the same weight/plant, but at an even higher ratio of increase, well over 100/1... so in terms of cost effectiveness (if purchasing seed) small is often better. Pole beans can do better still; the "Striped Cornfield" I grew this year (@45 seeds/oz.) produced a return of over 500/1! My results were obtained by mechanical tilling, with leaves & mulch turned under each season. Using these numbers, the same kidney beans - if grown in 5 rows in the same 10' X 10' plot - would be 100 plants. This would produce between 5 & 10 pounds of seed minimum... with only 2 ounces of seed required for planting, the average in a packet of beans. Also, at this spacing, the plants have sufficient air flow through the foliage to minimize the chances of disease during prolonged periods of rainfall. Having tested that theory in some very bad years recently (such as in 2008) I consider these yields to be realistically attainable, year after year. I don't doubt that my spacings could be improved upon; it is something that I often experiment with. Most likely, there is a happy medium somewhere between row spacing & high-density plantings which will produce the best yield, for a given area, with the littlest possible seed. That "happy medium" should take into account the expected annual variations in climate, since what works well one year, might not work the next. With soybeans, I have had some success with closely-spaced double rows, with standard row spacing between the pairs... so that may work for bush beans as well. Given the observations I have made on over 100 bean varieties over the years, I expect the optimal spacing will vary widely, depending upon variety, climate, and soil fertility. So there is really no "one correct answer" for bean spacing... just starting points for personal experimentation. Keep in mind, John Jeavons' bio-intensive recommendations mentioned above pertain to bush beans only. Pole beans are not suitable for wide bed planting, due to shading. However, you can have the best of both worlds using pole beans. Planted in a single row on the North side of the bed (where they would not shade shorter crops), they take up a relatively small footprint. A high-yielding pole variety could give you 3-4 pounds of dry seed from one row in that same 10' X 10' bed. You could use the majority of the bed(s) for other things, and still get a good crop of beans. My apologies for all of the long (and probably dry) posts, but as an amateur researcher, I just wanted to share some "bean science". Just wish this was on the Bean Forum.

For less than the cost of stamps, you can easily get those seeds. Try the dollar store. My friend got 3pkg. for $1.oo for a project with her class.

I always have some cooked beans on hand. I cook them in a slow cooker and keep in the fridge for quick meals. If I have too much, I will freeze portions. I also have brown rice (usually seasoned with parsely) cooked in the fridge or in indiv portions in the freezer. I don't like brown rice very much if it is fresh cooked. It is always best when it is reheated after being frozen or refrigerated. I've used this simple recipe with nearly every kind of bean and it is always good. Makes one hearty serving. 1 cup rice cooked 1 cup cooked lentils (or garbanzos or black beans or lima) kosher salt pepper shallots chopped (to your taste- I use 2) a nice handful of cilantro (to your taste) olive oil drizzled parmesan cheese - 2 or 3 tablespoons on top combine all ingredients microwave on high for 2 - 4 minutes depending on your microwave. This is good to take in a plastic container to work to be heated at lunch. ======================================= Wilted lettuce/bean salad Another way is to make a nice green salad of lettuce/tomatoes/shallots/mushrooms and all that you like in a salad. Toss with salad dressing. Heat 1 cup cooked lentils (seasoned with salt and pepper) Add heated lentils to top of chilled lettuce salad top lentils with parmesan or romano cheese and serve (croutons are nice too if you have them) (You can add a little extra olive oil to the lentils depending on how you cooked them). I love the combination of chilled lettuce and warm beans. Try it, you'll like it.

DW has been helping me with the dry beans. Dry beans were once almost completely unknown to her. It's been a slow process. However, she has developed an interest. Especially after I got back to growing beans for chili and soup. BTW, she has only been casually interested in edamame but the kidney beans seem to have captured her enthusiasm. It may mostly be the colors of Jacob's Cattle beans and Burgundy Bolita. (You can see both of those varieties in the thread on hot peppers Zach has posted.) She isn't likely to easily admit that just as she won't be heaping praise on my recipes unless there is one that she likes and I'm not cooking it often enough or, I stand in the corner and pout ... manipulative, ain't I? She stayed right with me shelling them and helped me gather more from the garden ... actually, since she is so adept at these sorts of things, it's really me helping her. Quickly I fall behind and she rounds the bed and begins picking back towards me ... The Bolita will be the most anticipated new variety. It's a half-runner and I'm really not sure how much trouble a passel of the plants might amount to. They are early and fairly prolific. There were few seeds sown but we will get a taste and have more in 2016 if the flavor pleases. Cascade Giant pole beans may be what got DW started down this avenue. I'd grown them for several years as green beans but with so many bush beans, neglected them one season. We had so much seed that we decided to try some in soup. With those heavy pods and small seeds, Cascade Giant are a bother to shell but the taste was delicious! These rattlesnake-type beans are popular as dual purpose and it's understandable. By comparison, it's easy to shell Jacob's Cattle beans and they are also very good. A world of beans is out there and it will be fun for us to try a few new ones every year. Steve