or you can contact someone to do this for you ... here is an interesting link if you want to read up ... while I do like to do as much as I can myself I think this is one thing I'd hire out. I give you a lot of credit for tackling that job !

Here is a link that might be useful: tub refinishing

For epoxy in a closed area like that you should use a toxic paint mask even with brush/roll on application. In the garage, for example, just a fan blowing over the job will do but not in the bathroom. Wear gloves too if you can. If not have a big tub of warm soapy water to wash your hands frequently if any epoxy gets on them.

If you choose to use a 2-part polyurethane you'll need a special mask with it's own independant air supply. And gloves and, if you spray, a complete protective suit. Because they contain isocyanates that will absorb instantly thru your skin. And they can/may kill you. Unlike epoxy they don't wash off with soapy water. Got some on the back on one hand and had a trigger finger for 7-8 months.

So make sure which type you have.

Blowing those fumes out the window may be (probly is) illegal where you live so be carefull who knows what you are doing.

Thanks, OldFixer, for the detailed instructions. Your tub turned out great! I've been trying to work up the courage to re-coat my ancient clawfoot when the warm weather returns. Definitely not a winter project in New England.

I'm curious - what product did you use?

dilettante: you'll need that courage, but go for it. With more ambition, and effort, you have the option to move the project outdoors. Plus, you have more exterior surface to coat to do it right. (bottom & feet too) My built in only has one front surface. Start the gruelling prep process now, to dull the surfaces you can reach. If being used, soap residue can be removed in a final cleaning. Sorry, product name eludes me. Search "epoxy tub paint" to find several brands at normal stores, and some reviews. Avg. $30. Seems to be a good DIY project, despite the STINK!!! Good luck to you.

I may try this on a bathroom sink - what would you use to repair rusted out spots around the overflow drain hole? I wouldn't want it stark white though - more of an antique white to match the tub would be good - is there such a thing?

My claw tub gets frequent use, so I didn't want to refinish and deal with the inevitable peeling. Itwas very worn on the bottom but the rim was still shiny (just some scratches but oh well). My approach was to get hot AND cold soft water run into the bathroom which elimates lime deposits (which are hard to remove from worn porcelain) Its very easy to clean now, and there is a clear porcelain polish that you can put on for a shine and extra protection if you want (sorta like car wax). That's an alternative approach for tubs that aren't as far gone as some.

k-k: you'd have to do the search to find manufacturers, then look for color options, if any. Some discussions were how to repair rusty spots. "inevitable peeling"?? Then you haven't prepped right. It should 'wear' same as the normal surface. Did my basement laundy tubs 20+ years ago, and no peeling yet.

Thank you for your example OldFixer. I think I will try just as soon as warm weather returns. One thing I would like to know is if anyone has experience using Bondo to fill in where some of the porcelain is gone.Are there other products that will do the same?

emma: try that searching for more answers. If the finish is only "gone", the area may be feather-sanded to help blend in. If the metal is showing, some offer a primer. Some say use fiberglass resin to repair big cracks, chips and rust spots. Bondo is not a waterproof fix. None of the above will add more than a few $$$ to the project if needed. Do some simple homework now. I started with some tough grit sandpaper on an electric palm sander. Then finished prep by hand with 100 grit wet-dry sandpaper. Good luck. Prepare for the stink!!