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Plaster walls

Posted by wellerman2200 (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 4, 09 at 7:53

I will be removing some out side plaster walls to rewire and insulate. My question is what kind of problems will I run into with the window and door casing (size wise)I would like to reuse all the wood work if I can. Thanks


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RE: Plaster walls

You will have to use multiple layers of drywall to build up to the thickness of the plaster you remove (commonly around 3/4 inch).

Two layers of 3/8 usually works well.

Why are you tearing out entire walls?

Plaster is very expensive to replace, and it is not that hard to blow in insulation and then make repairs to the plaster.


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RE: Plaster walls

We have a couple of plaster walls that needed entirely removed. Since they are open, like you, we are running in new outlets, moving switches, and insulating. Because of the size of gap that remains after the plaster and lath has been removed, we are running furring(sp?) strips across the studs and shimming behind them if needed to create a flat surface for hanging the new drywall. The new drywall will attach to the furring(meow?) strips since the drywall will have no opportunity to rest firmly against the studs like it normally would, therefore the furring strips need to be well attached to the studs. The thickness of the availability of the lumber you have for the strips will kind of determine the thickness of the drywall that you will need to use.

Something to consider when running your new wiring is that you'll need to move the protrusion of the electrical boxes out on the stud far enough to clear both the furring strips and the drywall as opposed to mounting them at the depth you normally would in a newer house.


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RE: Plaster walls

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RE: Plaster walls

"Because of the size of gap that remains after the plaster and lath has been removed, we are running furring(sp?) strips across the studs and shimming behind them if needed to create a flat surface for hanging the new drywall."

Rip 2x4s in half and attach them to the sides of the old studs with the face set for the thickness of the new wall.

Shimming and furring out walls takes way to long, and still often results in less than flat results.

One of my favorite tricks is to take 2-coat plaster walls (one of the original uses for gypsum boards was as a backer for plaster walls) and remove them in large pieces, then put the plaster back up and fix the joints.


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