However, faced batts may be unnecessary or counterproductive depending on: 1) what vapour control layers are already in place in the ceiling and 2) your climate zone.

You haven't posted your Zone, so open the link below for the recommendatons for your zone.

no.
for reflective surface to reflect, it needs
a minimum of 3/4" or larger air space to work.
facing the reflective surface down..(as in vapor barrier
to warm side).. puts reflective surface on attic floor.
facing reflective side up..would work in hot climates
as a radiant barrier..but only until dust buildup
reduced reflectivity.

I used fiberglass batts in my attic. all
unfaced. first layer in joist bays, second layer
across joist bays.
just what I did in my own house.

before adding insulation, air sealing attic floor
to living space below is a good investment.
if you minimize air flow through insulation, it
will perform to its rated R-value.
caulking wire penetrations, plumbing penetrations,
sealing around vent fans for baths & stove vent
penetrations all help.

if your ductwork is in
the attic you should seal ductwork prior to any
added insulation.

it is much much easier to work in attic prior to
insulation. it will never be as easy again.

where are you located?
I'm interested in what you chose and why.
if you don't mind sharing.

for further reading on vapor barriers here
is a link to a blog that has some great info.
peruse some of the earlier postings also.

http://www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/54110 /You-Don-t-Need-a-Vapor-Barrier-Probably

best of luck.

I'd strongly suggest you work with a bundle before ordering any more. If you find it's not for you, it's not wasted money. Just put in what you have and finish the rest in another insulation.

I had to haul batts through my
house & into attic via closet & tiny attic
hatch. it was more work than putting insulation
in place.

if you have a window the pulley & rope
isn't a bad idea.

best of luck.