It looks pretty good in the photo. A small quarter round trim might help but I would make it the same as the pine rather than stain it.

I'm with Renovator8 on this one.

Yes the pic doesn't show well. When you walk in the door directly ahead is one row going up adjoining one row going down.
In the pic it seems most visible if you look centrally along the beam, to the left of a wooden chair.

I was struggling with matching trim to pine or cedar, it seems pine is difficult to get locally. Maybe I will ask further...

When you walk in the door directly ahead is one row going up adjoining one row going down.
I have no idea what that means! :)

As the other guys said, it looks good in the picture.

See the chair? The planks at the chairs height quite clearly are not level, but rather go upwards toward the beam in center of pic.
Then, from that same center beam, the planks then go downward.

The pic isn't as clear as real life, but I'm sure you can see that even without a level.

It appears that the carpenter was successful in matching the lap joints, bay to bay, which may indicate an un-level floor.
However, the picture doesn't show an opposing adjustment at the ceiling.

A logical explanation, could be in the offing.

If there is a moulding wholesaler near you, ask at lumber yards, other than the big-boxes, trim can be milled for you.

Pull a level line across and take another picture please.

Welcome to life with old houses: they are seldom level and square.

It turns into a problem of deciding where and how to fudge the installation by inserting partial pieces. IF he ran the boards horizontally level, there would probably be pie-cut boards at top or bottom or both to compensate ... it looks like the two beams are not the same depth from the ceiling.

Wallpaper?

Well, I think it's a poor job and should be done over. You have to make the boards level, simple as that. If the ceiling or floor isn't level to begin with, you just don't start following the same un-level line! You cut in a piece to bring it to level and continue from there.

Thank you all.

Lazy gardens, yes he didn't have forsite to fudge, creating this problem.

Clarion, you've got it bang on. My problem is there isn't just one section that could be pulled out, but they about 20' x 5' swaths (except picture which is only about 8' tall under the loft).
I bought expensive pre stained material. I didn't have time to stain and the carpenter swore painting the visible side was all that was needed- my limited experience taught me to paint ALL sides to prevent cupping. So instead of that I just paid for the good stuff pre done.
Removal and replacement I fear will damage the planks more than it may be worth. Then it's straight but banged up some.
Like if you do one swath, you need to do it all, and the carpenter is by the hour, I think I just need to 'let it go'. Hate that!! Grrr.

Most tradespeople take pride in their work. It may have been a case where he/she did not realize how off the lines would be until it he was far into the wall. Sure, he should have backed up, put in an adjusting strip,and started over. But, with bills to pay and mouths to feed, the temptation to keep moving, hope it's not noticed, and get paid is there.

I would consider talking to the carpenter. Explain that it's noticeable to you, and ask if you can negotiate a reduced rate to address the problems, if he's ever got down time between jobs that he's looking to fill. Whenever I've asked my carpenter for a do-over, and it hasn't been frequent, he's been fine with it; in fact I get the impression that he knew quite well things weren't up to par, but wanted to see if I'd ask about it, hoping I wouldn't. He's never charged. But we're talking half a day of labor, not a week or more, so with that kind of time scale, throwing in a little more money might be needed. You shouldn't have to pay to get it done right, but reality and what motivates...

Yeah, there are a lot of jerks out there, but also a lot of awesome people. You'll know quickly into the conversation which category you're dealing with.

I always verify plumb, level, square and inform the customer, BEFORE I START, what to expect. 20-20 hind site, is akin to knowing you do not having enough toilet paper, and ignoring that.

What I would have done was reframe the roof so that all beams were the same size. This could also be achieved by planing the rafters to a common size and planarity, Of course the floors would need to be leveled as well. Then everything could be perfectly aligned, but would you have liked the price tag?
I believe you got the job you paid for; when imposing a standard-sized material on an irregular space, some mis-fits are baked in. You were unsuccessful in communicating your vision to him, and subsequently he used his own vision. It would have taken you but a moment to tell him to justify the layout from your preferred point, and give the worker a filled-out set of parameters. I suspect that he filled the vacuum of knowledge the best he could based on what you gave him, plus his own experience.
Casey

Sombreuil, If someone hires a carpenter, chances are they don't know tricks of the trade to micromanage that carpenter. This could have been sorted out with one phone call. Better communication.

Fireweed ... would you be less unhappy with not-square starting and finishing pieces? Because to make the middle boards level, it will take cutting the top and the bottom pieces to compensate for off-square, and then you will have a glaringly visible trapezoid board at the top of the wall emphasizing the slope of the ceiling, and one at the floor too.

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Sombreuil .... What I would have done was reframe the roof so that all beams were the same size.

How would you fix this? That's the door to my MBR, as seen through the DR doorway.

"How would you fix this? That's the door to my MBR, as seen through the DR doorway."

Photo editing.

We did a house a while back that had 7" dip in the floors. The repairs started like this:

Once we removed the main floor, we jacked the second floor and attic floors together, added the steel beams, and then the doorways became square again. We put back a new main floor system and 6 new posts/footers in the cellar. Easy fix.
Casey