Like many other things, the base is they key to longevity. If you just pave over a poor base the new layer will fail too.

Maybe it's me but wouldn't pavers make things more expensive?

Here's a picture of what I hope for our driveway to look like. Again, which comes first?-- asphalt pour then cut perimeter edges to be straight to lay pavers, or lay pavers first so top is a few inches above gravel base and pour asphalt to be level with top of pavers.

We had pavers put in at the bottom of my driveway when we repaved. Damned if I can remember which happened first, tho', since the paver did both. We wanted to do exactly like your photo, but it was way, way too much money.

I really don't know but it seems to me technically it would be pavers last.

I would think that with the pavers in place they'd get marked or stained from the blacktopper's boots and raking and shoveling etc. If they use a paving machine that could hit the pavers. Or leave a gap which would be filled in by hand. Don't forget the roller - can they roll it without hitting the pavers? Maybe, but it'd have to be exactly along the edge. And the edge bulges out a bit during compaction. That woud move the pavers. Or they'd have to use hand tampers - not as good.

Also look in the streets. They only ever lay a mat over the old and it cracks up before not too long. Well what is not too long?

For comparison have you priced concrete?

Here's how one paving company edges asphalt with pavers.

Here's what our "cap" looks like in not that many years. Saved a bunch though!

This post was edited by worthy on Sun, Aug 31, 14 at 15:40

To "worthy" from last posting ...
How many inches asphalt did they cap the old layer with? And did you follow up with resealing every couple years?
Also, did not see a link or additional information about your first comment on how an asphalt company did paver edging.

I'd abandon the idea of so much blacktop. This would really cut costs. Start thinking where you could use this:

Here is a link that might be useful: Core grass

Here's the link showing the asphalt going down after the paver edging is set. Just requires some care. To be doubly secure of a firm edge, I would anchor the paving stones with an edging restraint. (Not shown.)

The one-inch cap on our driveway was put down by the previous owner, within the last 15 years, I gather from the neighbours. The section pictured began falling apart after the POs removed the dumpster they used to "pack"; no protective plywood was placed under it. You can also see the crack patterns that are everywhere. I don't know when these started reappearing. (It's a teardown, so I don't care much.)

Since the expected useful life of an asphalt driveway is ten years, according to HUD (see table C-3), I'd say they got their money's worth.

Paving companies typically claim a useful life of resurfacing of 8-12 years, often with a proviso of surface sealing every two years.

Like you, I'd be torn between being sure with a new surface and reworked base and saving $24K by resurfacing.

My preference is for paving stones. With bi-annual sealing and regular maintenance, a 25-year useful life should be no problem. I'm judging by ones that I did put in 25 years ago. Or perhaps consider a mix of the two, as in rear drive asphalt and front done in pavers.

[Nostalgia moment: I remember when driveways, other than for mansions, were gravel and dirt; then came those two narrow strips of concrete in the grass. Now it's pave the world.]

This post was edited by worthy on Mon, Sep 1, 14 at 21:21

Does anyone have anecdotal (not just reading off the internet or heresay) experience with the life expectancy of an asphalt driveway complete redo (taken down to the gravel base) or with an asphalt overlay (1.5-2" new asphalt over old one)? We like likely be in this house for 20 years so if I have to redo the driveway in 15 years, I need to take that into account vs using pavers or concrete which will last longer, although I have to keep in mind concrete over 20 years is surely to crack.