If you just add a coat of shellac, you won't darken the worn areas much...buy your shellac in flake form--it is probably cheaper that way online. I need to price some myself.

For the cabinet, it should match the woodwork...go by the inside of the doors and match that...with some stain, then shellac over it.

Here is a link I found...searching 'shellac flakes'.

Here is a link that might be useful: Shellac.net

Thanks, colombusguy! I had considered purchasing online, but hadn't looked for it yet. I checked the link, that's really cool.

I was concerned about buying online, only because it seems like color matching could be tricky - as viewed on one monitor, another, or phone. :-) I did finally realize that there are 2 applications on this floor. The VERY dark (& thick) layer of almost black shellac was applied over a lighter more-red tint. Both are worn away from the center, but 1 clue was the "pits & gouges" in even the worn areas are the dark color. Here's an example, see the rather large (& deep) dark pit?

Oh, yeah... What's that light spot? Proof that shellac takes more time to dry than I thought. I'd have sworn it WAS dry, there.. Supported my weight on my hand so I could reach just a bit more floor with cloth without crawling on my floor-abused knees again, and...

...I "veneered myself". Picture subtitle, "Um, can anyone identify this wood species?".

The worst part, seriously, is the quarter-size chunk of floor & finish gone. I was devastated. I crack jokes at gosh-all, but this raw spot still has me heart-sick. One thing to blend a worn finish over another, but this is different.
So, now I'm thinking about removing more of the dark layer & matching the inside of cupboard doors as best I can, (another clue) - & applying it to the floor as well. (Maybe "drag" some of the black into bald spot first.. I'm tempted to leave the dings & divet's dark anyway, for character & to not have it look

like I'm trying to make it look new & hide the symptoms of age.

It certainly seems flake is the way to go, or you have a choice of - what, 3 shades? More affordable, too, which is a factor. Right now, more than usual. Surprise fiasco's... watch out. They travel in packs - especially in an old house. (Getting excited about finally starting that project you've wanted to do for years? A sure sign that something is getting ready to gush or sneaky-leak water, explode, or crack, unexpectedly). Yet, we love them - in a way our "fancy new house" friends & family will never feel about their temporary buildings.

I'm going to check out shellac at my local Lowes, but I'm thinking flakes for my sills...which will probably mean the online site.

I have a can of shellac a few years old, unopened, but I read somewhere here that premixed is probably no good now due to limited shelf life...is this true?

Ready for one thing, and another pops up--you bet! Discovered this week that the commode (original) in the basement has a slow drip where the water enters the tank--my water bill was a bit higher than usual--the REALLY good news: no shut-off valve between this line and the main house shut-off!

Unless there is some putty thing or that 'flex seal' I see on tv, I'm going to have to put in a shut-off valve. Anyone tried the two alternatives? Since I suck at soldering, would compression fittings work to install the new valve?

I've been looking into shellac too for some doors and trim and it seems that it does have a limited shelf life if premixed. But I don't actually KNOW anything. :)

Lee Valley Tools has a lot of shellacking supplies. Maybe you have one local (I don't).

Now, I think that dark pit is just part of the character of the floor that makes it so cool. And that light handprint spot? That too. Why shouldn't YOU be allowed to add some character to the floor too? Don't beat yourself up about it. It's just extra charm. Seriously. :)

"I have a can of shellac a few years old, unopened, but I read somewhere here that premixed is probably no good now due to limited shelf life...is this true? "

Iyt starts to polymerize once dissolved and will not longer harden correctly but remains thick and sticky.

Test pre-mixed shellac on a surface before using.

All you need is a single bad can to mess up a job.

The flakes last a lot longer, but still not indefinitely.

After dissolving make sure it wil harden correctly.

I usually paint it on a piece of glass and check hardening time.

It is eaily remove dwith some denatured alcohol or with a single edge razor blade so the glass can be used over and over.
My piece is about 9 x 11 inches and 1/2 inch thick.
I also use it with wet or dry paper as a sharpening stone.

Water is used to 'stick' the paper to the glass, and then more water on the front of the paper to touch up chisels.

Not sure if you are still working on this or not, but after reading your post, I thought I'd try shellac on my new box beams. I just picked up a can of Zinsser at the local big box, in case I didn't like it, I didn't want a bunch of flakes sitting around (shellac flakes, that is!).

I used it over my 'custom' old house stain and it looks amazing! I'm so impressed with how easy it was to use. I set up my saw horses outside in the sun and the stuff was immediately dry. I waited an hour and recoated. The beams look just like the original woodwork that still has a bit of a sheen to it, so now I feel comfortable using it on the existing woodwork. I was even able to stain over a damaged spot, and re-shellac, and the stain held on over the new shellac- can't tell the difference.

"I didn't want a bunch of flakes sitting around"

So throw them out after the job is finished.

You can also purchase smaller quantities to try and match you needs.

It is NOT hazardous waste or anything (there is even food grade shellac that is edible).

Colombusguy, sorry to hear about your leak problem - did you get it resolved? I couldn't answer your question, sorry. My plumbing knowledge goes a bit beyond "jiggle the handle", but not much. :-)

Fori, thank you... My intent is to leave the dark in the depressed areas, and remove a little bit from edges & corners where it's so thick that the lighter layer doesn't show at all. Just a little bit, though.

Thanks, Brickeyee - I like the glass pane suggestion. Plenty of picture frames here that I haven't gotten around to using, I could use one for this, instead.
I've been derailed by weather - & kids, lol. Too hot to run the house fan, or even open windows, for ventilation. No kidding - it's 108.6 degrees, right now!!! Not going to be much - if any - better any time soon. We're in an "excessive heat warning" through next Friday. (And stupid city made us drain our inflatable 8' diameter kiddie pool? The boys won't be outside for a while!).
Oldhousegal, that's also why I couldn't shellac anything outside (not an issue regarding floor, tho, lol). Much hotter, &... Hmm.. Chemical combustion or heat stroke, which would happen first? ;-)