I feel like the ice & water shield is going to trap any moisture inside the wall and start rotting it from the inside out...

Correct.

This post was edited by worthy on Wed, Jun 19, 13 at 11:32

Is there anything I can do, short of tearing the siding off and starting over with regular old felt paper?

Not really!

This post was edited by millworkman on Tue, Jun 18, 13 at 15:57

Feel free to use 15 lb. felt, #30 is for roofs. Even red rosin paper would have been all right in this application. Or Tyvek, Typar, Lo-vek (facetious appelation for Lowes house brand), etc..
Casey

I agree, I'm sorry but it has to come off and be replaced.

It will never be easier than now, so might as well get 'er done.

I'm not suggesting you might, er, cough, cough, postpone this fairly urgent fix, but it you do, I would make sure that those walsl on the inside were painted (before winter) with vapor blocking paint. Won't eliminate the problem, but might mitigate, in a small way, the issue. Short-term.

Worst is, the Ice shield costs a lot more compared to plain rosin or felt paper. They don't call these houses money pits for no reason.

It would be an interesting thread to ask folks who've lived and learned on their old houses what really bone-headed mistakes they've inflicted on their buildings. None of us was born knowing the right, smart, correct, or perfect way to do things. None of us!

I usualy end my posts, "HTH", for Hope That Helps.

In this case, I hope that my last paragrpah does help you realize we've all BTDT.

L.

A question, what is the difference between laying snow and ice on the wood sheathing on the entire roof and the entire exterior wall as was done in this case?

Lets assume there is no attic with a vaulted ceiling.

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I suppose the silver lining is that brand new siding should come off a little easier than the old siding. Any tips to minimize breakage, other than just go easy and pry gently?

Since that layer behind the shingles is the actual drainage plane, rosin paper would NOT be suitable.

Tar paper (or another water barrier tat is NOT a vapor barrier) is needed.

'15#' tar paper still strikes the correct balance.

what is the difference between laying snow and ice on the wood sheathing on the entire roof and the entire exterior wall as was done in this case?

In a vented attic, there is little or no temperature difference, so no vapour drive.

See here for question and answer identical to the original question.

Interestingly, there is a role for I&W Shield on exterior walls as part of the PERSIST insulation system.

This post was edited by worthy on Wed, Jun 19, 13 at 16:41

Resin paper would work only if the siding was the actual water shedding layer. It's not. The sheathing is the water shedding layer. The siding is just decoration, and some protection for the felt paper or house wrap that is the water proof medium.

I don't know how extensive the siding patch is, but I suspect that if it is not too big it could be left in place with a minimum risk of damage. There is vapor pressure on an exterior wall, unlike a well-ventilated roof, but most likely the vapor will bypass a small impervious area without ill effect.

Not the best solution, and not without risk, but we're not looking for best practice, just something that has a fair chance of working.

So once I get the siding down and then back up, what's the story with sealing the siding itself? I'm leaning towards caulking the vertical joints (between the ends of the clapboards and trim pieces) and leaving the horizontal gaps between the courses of clapboards open so the interior can breathe. Opinions?

You don't caulk the joints in wood siding.