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Asbestos Shingles

Posted by msjay2u (My Page) on
Tue, Apr 16, 13 at 9:41

Hi all,
I was wondering if any of you guys have asbestos shingles and if so how do you deal with them? I don't have the money to replace them and it seems everything I do is cracking them. I patched them with plaster then painted over it but not even sure if that was the best thing to use? Also if you changed out asbestos did you go right over them or did you have them removed?

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Asbestos Shingles

Not considered 'friable' (capable of being pulverized with bare hands).

There are limits (based on weight) of how many layers of shingles can be on a roof, and if any leaks have occurred it should be stripped to inspect the roof deck before re-shingling.

If a few are cracked there are non-asbestos shingles available that look the same for repairs.

This post was edited by brickeyee on Tue, Apr 16, 13 at 12:57

RE: Asbestos Shingles

I am sorry I should have clarified that I was speaking about shingles on the house. Siding. I replaced a door and several shingles on the side cracked, same with when I removed a window. I tried to patch it up with a piece of mesh and plaster then I sanded it and sealed the cracks in it with caulk and painted over it. I did this some years ago and it held up so far but I was wondering if there is a way to nail in without shattering the shingle. I have to make holes for my security camera wires and it is nearly impossible for me to drill through them and when I got a stronger person to do so with the first wire the entire shingle shattered. It is getting very frustrating. There has to be a better way besides replacing all of it.

RE: Asbestos Shingles

The problem is that drilling them is one very good way to release fibers.

At least get an asbestos rated face mask and then drill them using 'tile' style drill bits with carbide tips.

NOT a regular concrete style carbide bit, they can case cracking of the shingle).

The material (asbestos and Portland cement are major parts) take the edge of twist style steel bits in very short order.

If I only had one very small hole I might consider it on a day with a reasonable breeze to carry away the dust and do the work at arms length, possibly with a long bit extension to keep further away).

Depending on your age it may not be a realistic hazard.

"The typical mesothelioma latency period is 20 to 50 years, with recent studies finding a median of 30 to 45 years. Under normal circumstances, the shortest possible latency period is 10 to 15 years, while the longest is more than 50 years."

I am a certified 'radiation worker' and long ago figured out how to keep my exposure down low enough to make sure I will likely die of something else before the slight exposure I do receive does anything (ALARA, "As Low As Reasonably Achievable" is the ongoing exposure guidance).

Here is a link that might be useful: Mesothelioma Latency Period

This post was edited by brickeyee on Wed, Apr 17, 13 at 13:28

RE: Asbestos Shingles

Thank you for all that info!! First off yes I was using a cement bit. Second I am50 so I am good lol. Can I put tape on the shingle before drilling to catch the fibers?

RE: Asbestos Shingles

"Can I put tape on the shingle before drilling to catch the fibers?"

It will not catch all of them, but might be better than nothing.

RE: Asbestos Shingles

I think I'd stop messing around with and spending money on questionable fixes. I'm surprised you even have them--around here, they're illegal to the point that the town requires them to be properly removed--at the homeowner's expense. and they don't give you very long to get the work done. You're liable to get one of 'those letters' at some point, and then all the money, time and effort you've spent will be wasted anyway. It's expensive to do the job right--but how much more expensive are the health issues caused by asbestos?

RE: Asbestos Shingles

Hi azzalea, I took your response to heart and contacted the state to see if this is the case here. They told me that I am NOT required to remove it and it is entirely up to me if I keep it but in keeping it there are some guidelines I should be following. I thought that was the case because there are so many houses that still have it. They also directed me to a website and I thought I would share what they said:
Because of its many useful characteristics, including resistance to fire and heat, asbestos has long been used in the manufacture of some 3,000 different building materials, including floor tile, linoleum or sheet vinyl, cement siding, roofing materials/sealants, pipe insulation, adhesives, sprayed-on fireproofing, and decorative ceiling treatments.

The presence of intact asbestos-containing material in a building is not likely to pose a health risk. However, if the material is damaged or disturbed, asbestos fibers can be released into the air. Some asbestos-containing materials such as sprayed-on ceiling finishes, textured ceilings, fireproofing, pipe insulation, and ceiling tiles can be easily damaged by water, vibration or physical contact. In other products, such as vinyl floor tile and siding, asbestos is combined with a binding material so that it is not readily released into the air. However, if the materials are sanded, drilled, cut or crushed, asbestos-containing dust may become airborne and may be inhaled. To prevent asbestos exposure, do not disturb materials containing asbestos, and do not dust, sweep or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. Major repairs or removal of asbestos should only be performed by trained asbestos professionals.
• DO have removal and major repair done by people trained, qualified, and equipped to handle asbestos.
We highly recommended that minor repair and taking samples to test for asbestos also be done by asbestos professionals.
• DON’T remove materials that may contain asbestos without proper personal protective equipment and
environmental controls. If materials that may contain asbestos are damaged by flooding, leave them
in place until they can be removed by trained asbestos professionals.
• DON’T dust, sweep, or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos.
• DON’T saw, sand, scrape, or drill holes in asbestos materials.
• DON’T use abrasive pads or brushes on power strippers to strip wax from asbestos flooring. Never use a
power stripper on a dry floor.
• DON’T sand or try to level asbestos flooring or its backing. When asbestos flooring needs replacing, install
new floorcovering over it, if possible.
• DON’T track material that could contain asbestos through the house. If you cannot avoid walking through
the area, have it cleaned with a wet mop. If the material is from a damaged area, or if a large area must be
cleaned, call an asbestos professional.
• DO keep activities to a minimum in any areas, such as
crawl spaces or attics, having damaged material that
may contain asbestos.
• DO take every precaution to avoid damaging asbestos or suspect asbestos containing materials

Here is a link that might be useful: state information

RE: thanks

PS thanks for prompting me to call and look it up. I should have done that first LOL.

RE: Asbestos Shingles

Luckily for the most part the laws do not apply that tightly to homeowners.

It is not a crime to disturb asbestos.

Improper disposal may be a crime.

The EPA created a crisis many years ago, then came up with all sorts of 'solutions.'

One of their 'choices' was to NOT inform folks that not all forms of asbestos are equally dangerous (it might be to 'confusing' to the message.)

This means tat even if you have a non-hazardous type, even the professional removers cannot take advantage of this after verifying the type.

And they later recanted all the school removals they wasted money on (or forced local school authorities to waste money removing).

The entire concrete ceiling of Dulles Airport was sprayed with asbestos flock for noise control when the place was built (at half its present size).

When this was noticed finally, the EPA had at least come out of full panic ode and 'allowed' a coating to be sprayed over the ceiling to make sure the asbestos remained tightly secured in place.

There is plenty of evidence that the lower TDS standrds promulgated by EPA without concultig their own 'in house' corrosion specialists has been contribting to holes in coper pipes.

The 'fix'?

Add back some of the things they ordered removed.
Phosphates that form a protective coating inside copper pipes (and lead pipes also) are added back to the water as Orthophosphate.

Ad al those kids runing around licking CCA lumber MIGHT have been affected by the arsenic.

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