to tint shellac you need to use a universal colorant (which I buy from my local paint store, but only because we have a strong relationship...you might need to try an art store if you don't have a paint store to work with). It's the same stuff they use to color paints. I get about a cup worth and then tint the shellac by hand in a glass bowl so I can see the color it's becoming clearly. I add a few drops at a time and then test a thin run on the type of wood I'm using, and adjust as necessary until I get the tone I'm shooting for.

Using a mahogany toned shellac will likely give you a much nicer color.

Alcohol soluble Trans-Tint dyes (available from woodworking suppliers) work great.

Here is a link that might be useful: one source

What kind of shellac and what weight of cut did you use as your pre-treatment prior to staining?

I used about a 1 lb cut. I have since tried again with multiple, very thin coats of stain (over shellac) and had better luck.
I have also ordered some alcohol soluble dyes to try.
Thanks for all the help

Did you sand both cases with the same grit?
Blotching occurs when stain has more area to stick to, i.e places on the surface deeper then others.
Try cross-grain sanding, also start with coarse (220) and follow up with finer (even 300-320) to make an even surface. Wet the surface with _clean_ solvent and you will be able to tell if it will splotch/blotch. Use some commercial anti blotching (lowes/hd has minwax) or in worst case use water borne finish or a gel finish in few thin coats rather than one concentrated.
You might even go with a one-step which also is less prone to splotch.
Shellac is easy to use, but will cause problems when not dried completely- you might dissolve the existing coats with the new coat. In my experience water based, although lacks in clarity , works good on splotch prone woods like cherry, or pine.