If it's just cracking, you can put mesh and a little "mud" over it and then prime and paint. If it's really coming off, it may be better to cut out that section and replace with drywall. We've had pros do both, I've never done it myself. Neither was expensive.

Thanks Thats just what I was hoping for!!!

RehabReuseRepurpose

great response!

Watch This Old House video using the method.

Great Video thanks!!!

Hi,
there's a more high-tech solution which uses an acrylic adhesive injected underneath between the plaster and lath, then mechanical pressure is applied (plaster washers or poles/supports if a ceiling). When the adhesive has set, the mechanical force can be removed. Anyone who has used a lot of plaster washers on a ceiling will know what this means; it takes a very thick skim coat to make the washers disappear; with the adhesive you need only fill the screw holes and you are better than new.
It saves labor. Unfortunately, I have no name brand to give you; probably find by searching under historic plaster conservation or some such.
Casey

This Old House again. Thanks, hadn't seen this before.

Im reading this and wondering if the "belly" on an outside wall of my parlor, where I have been removing wallpaper, needs to be "reattached"

It doesn't move when I gently press on it like some other plaster that I reattached using adhesive. there are no cracks or damage int eh area at all - just an area of plaster - about 9 x 15 inches - that bellies out about 1/2 inch from the wall surface.

What do you guys think I should do ?

Im reading this and wondering if the "belly" on an outside wall of my parlor, where I have been removing wallpaper, needs to be "reattached"

It doesn't move when I gently press on it like some other plaster that I reattached using adhesive. there are no cracks or damage int eh area at all - just an area of plaster - about 9 x 15 inches - that bellies out about 1/2 inch from the wall surface.

What do you guys think I should do ?

Going to help my friend today, picked up the anchors hoping it goes well. Thank you everyone.

How did everything go?

Stonehouse, I had the same sort of 'belly' protruding from an anteroom wall. I finally got tired of looking at it and just pulled it down. After filling it with drywall and moving on, I am glad I decided to part with it even though I was loathe to remove original plaster. I never could find a reason for why it was like that.

I'm in the process of reattaching my plaster to the laths using a version of Big Wally's Plaster Magic. I bot Weldbond white glue for the "conditioner", Big Wally's plastic daisies for affixing and Dap Weldwood Multi-Purpose Floor Adhesive to do the heavy work of attaching the plaster.

Using a 3/16" mortar bit, I drilled holes on either side of the crack at the laths (so the drill was stopped by the lath.) I drilled about every 3". Laths are usually 1" in width with a 3/8" space between. Vacuumed the holes to remove loose plaster. Spritzed some Weldbond glue (3:1 dilution) in each hole and waited for about 10 mins. for it to set. Used a tiler's sponge to mop up the drips. Then, using a syringe, I pushed the floor adhesive into the holes. I don't do caulk guns well, so if you can find a good latex adhesive for a caulk gun, that'll work. You'll be able to tell where the lath is pulled away the most because you'll be able to push a lot of adhesive in. Then I put in the "pressure daisies" by drilling into the lath. Do not! use the holes with the adhesive in them as seen on TV. Totally schmutzes up the screw and the daisy. The holes you've already drilled will show where the lath is so just go left and right of those. You'll know you've got good adhesion if you see the glue ooze out as you tighten.

Run water thru your Weldbond sprayer and spritz until it runs clean. They say the latex adhesive cleans up with water, but it is the stickiest stuff ever. You can use a latex paint cleanup product to get every speck. I used that to clean up my daisies and screws. Just threw about a tablespoon full in a jar with everything and shook. My beautiful tiler's sponge is now totally covered in adhesive, yuck. On the second round, I just used a very wet washcloth for the adhesive. Drill is also sticky, lol.

Let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. You can remove the daisies and fill in the now stabilized crack with regular old joint compound in a tub. Spritz the crack with the Weldbond white glue and fill the crack. Scrape it well to avoid sanding...and use the tiler's sponge to smooth. If your wall moves as you are using your scraper, your plaster isn't affixed. Back to square one. That happened to me on a section. Just redid that section and it's rock solid.

I had a lot of fun doing it and learned a lot in the process. Hope that helps.

This post was edited by lsimms on Sat, Mar 22, 14 at 6:40