You would not necessarily be required to eliminate the pop out configuration. You could use 1/4 inch copper tubing cut in 3/8 inch lengths (need 4) and put regular crimp type eyelet wire terminals on the ends of the replacement diode wire pigtails. Then you use a machine thread screw and nut to secure the eyelet terminal to the short length of copper tube by running a screw through the tube lengthwise. Then secure the eyelet connection to the tube with a nut. Might need a flat washer under the nut. Pop the tube into the existing diode clips and you are set to go. Of course you must observe correct polarity.

Hi there, Here are my views/ experiences: 1) Low voltage bulbs generally project less heat than line voltage. They also last longer (even much longer, depending on the bulb). A 50 watt low voltage halogen bulb is a little brighter than a line voltage halogen bulb. Low voltage cans are available in smaller sizes than line voltage. The con is that low voltage is more expensive- there's a transformer to buy. But taking into account the smaller size, longer life (up to 20k hours vs 2k hours) less heat projection and brighter light, I always go low voltage when there is a choice. Now, if you have 30' ceilings, that's a different story. But for most homes, lv works great. 2) Not really. Kitchens are very task oriented. So the cans will be closer together over counter and other work areas to give good overlap and eliminate shadowing. But over walkway areas, they'll be farther apart. 3) Cable and rail halogens do offer a lot of flexibility. You can not only slide fixtures to move them, but add more very easily if needed. There is also a design issue. What do you want to see on your ceiling? I have rail in my hall, but recessed (3" low voltage) in my kitchen. Basically, every lighting design I do involves low voltage cans. As I'm in California, I'm forced to use LED for kitchens and bathrooms. Which are great units. But in a design sense, the low voltage allows for the smallest hole in your ceiling without sacrificing brightness or coverage. There are always exceptions, but for the most part, you can light up a room using the same number of 3.5" low voltage halogens as you would with 6" halogens. The light would be the same (if not better) and the overall heat in the room would be much less.

Low voltage outdoor lighting (i.e. landscape lighting) transformers are supposed to be mounted outside due to UL listing codes. If a transformer is approved for outdoor use it actually is supposed to be mounted outside (and not inside). However, off the record, many people do mont them inside (like in a garage or cabana). The reason for not connecting the first fixture with-in 10' of the transformer is because the lowest output on any low voltage transformer is 12 volts (multitap transformers go from 12v-22v). There is slight variations on actual output (due to some houses may actually have 125v, some 114 v, etc) and accordingly a close fixture may actually be slightly overvolted. If the real output is 12.4 volts, the first fixture will be overvolted. However after 10' voltage drop will make sure that the first fixture is under 12v as a safe guard. You can always mount a fixture closer than 10'--just use 10' of cable and bury the slack. We manufacture professional grade landscape light fixtures and outdoor lighting transformers and have robust learning areas on our site if you want to learn more. Here is a link that might be useful: Outdoor lighting transformer

it takes a circuitous path that requires about 12' of cable. That's fine. They want a minimum 10' of cable between the transformer and first fixture.