Orange : Not Stubborn at all just knowledgeable within Proper Oil Specifications. You have 13 LB which run ok on Marine Grade Oil then that's all that matters to you . I have run Snowmobiles , Snow-blowers , Chainsaws , Motorcycles , Outboards and Inboards and frequently upgrade my Oil Specifications accordingly to the Best (Better than Suggest Manufacturer Grade). I also repair and rebuilt the above for numerous friends and clients for over 30 yrs. I guess that's why have Chainsaws and Lawnmowers and Snow-blowers that never quit due to improper maintenance or inferior lubrication , because I have seen the results 1st hand.I further understand that the TC-W3 Specs which are Administrated from the NMMA have been recently amended , however that has do with the reduction in dispersant additive within the oil for anti fouling due to moisture intrusion from thermal cycles or leaking seals . It had nothing to due with the adding a detergent to Reduce Carbon which is a Proponent your Marine grade oil will not provide your air-cooled unit. Any amount of carbon 0.40 fouling on a Piston Dome can cause rapid failure . This is why Old Mineral oils required routine Engine Top End De-carbonizing back in the Day . As I said I don't Rely on a Manufacturer who wishs for eventual unit replacement to Guide my Oil Selection . The Oil I use is a little more expensive but I feel it's warranted do to the Application of Use and the Additives Required. You have a right to your opinion but I would suggest you review the Most Recent Oil Specifications Guide on Marine vs Air-Cooled Engine Recommendations and Not Minimum Standards of one Manufacturer . Anyhow Good Luck with your Lawnmowers Bro ! I enjoyed the discussion :)

deeredoctor: --------------- That was helpful ... I wish it was just a bit warmer outside (n.nj) Id go fiddle with the engine. I have a feeling this is something that will improve the starting on my Scotts... Q's: ---- ... Then continue past the same 1/4 inch drop of the piston as the single cyl engine. Im not quite clear in this procedure... It kinda sounds as if your telling me - with valve covers off and me spinning the crank Ill be able to determine TDC easier (makes sense - so far) ... Ill probably poke a screwdriver down the plug hole to approximate TDC... (or is the screwdriver a bad idea) i guess I could put my finger over the plug hole and feel for the compression stroke? Im wondering with the plugs out - will I be able to spin motor by hand ? how do the pros do this ? I assume its easier with 2 people - but I'm solo over here and Its likely ill be doing this alone... AND "the 1/4 drop of the piston" .... I need more details. Am I too assume the 1/4 drop ensures that both my valves are TRULY closed (on the power stroke) and therefore this is the best location to set the 4-6 clearances ? Mownie: ------- I was thinking about the TDC issue on a twin cylinder, obviously VERY important... Thanks for bringing that up as well !!! thanks again.

UCL is highly recommended for ALL classic cars especially when they are not often driven. 1- 5 tankfills a year means that petrol (USAterm = gasoline, gas) is in fact always old, somewhat deteriorating and collecting condensed water. Nowadays one should absolutely avoid bio-ethanolized petrol because some materials (metalparts, seals, rubbers; from petrolfill-entrance to and including exhaustpipes) oxidate and or desintegrate because of the ethanol and waterattraction. In Dieselengines UCL lubes the Dieselpump which nowadays is not lubed by the Dieselfuel anymore because Sulphur had to be eliminated from this fuel The Sulphur in the olddays Dieselfuel, lubricated the Dieselcompressionpump better than the modern Dieselfuel does. UCL protects/has benificial effects, also when fuel is not streaming or dried up (a thin protective oily layer of UCLoil stays on all surfaces before the burningstage, when the gasoline has evaporated after some days of stand-still) : Less rust in fuel tank Rubber gaslines don't dry out Petrol- and Dieselpumpparts (electric AND mechanical pumps benefit); membranes are lubed Carburettor is lubed (critical for copper and other non-ferroparts) Inletvalves benefit Cylindersurfaces are lightly lubed during firing and also already during the coldstart. UCL implies that only oil that combusts properly and burns fully, should be used. ONLY, ONLY AND ONLY 2-Stroke Oil does that. It will not carbodeposit on internal engineparts. Some people use engineoil, ATF or whatever. DON'T DO THAT, EVER. ONLY 2-Stroke oil is specially designed for nicely burning with gasoline and Diesel! Use cheap, the simplest undoped 2-Stroke oil, it may be not, half or fully sythesized. Use NOT the stuff disigned for modern 2-Stroke engines, as it possibly contains agressive dopes (Bad for aforementioned materials) . For years now, I use 1 part 2-stroke oil on 200 parts gasoline (ratio 1:200) . DIESELENGINES: 1 L for every 60 L of Diesel (ratio 1:60). Try to ride your fuel tank as empty as you dare before adding fuel, FIRST add the 2-Stroke oil so it mixes by and with the flow of fuel pumped Expect to use 50 liters of petrol? First add 250 ml (1/4th liter) 2-Stroke oil (= 2-T). This is a small beerglass on an average fill. Better use a dispenser with marks, though.... 40? 200 ml 30? 150 ml 60? 300 ml So every 1 L of gas, first add 5 milliliter of 2-T. Ratio is then 1:200. Sometimes I underestimate the needed gasoline to fill-up and allready added the 2-T. No problem, one time I calculated I had made a mixture of 1:100 (that is double the prescribed amount of 2-T) and experienced nothing in particular that half year later. Remember, 2-Stroke engines use 1:25 - 1:50 ratio which is 8-4 times 'fattier'. Mind you, Dieselmixture can and should be : 1L 2-T on a fill of 60L Diesel I provide ALL my none-catalyst diesel- and petrolcars with 2-T. From my Peugeot 201 of 1931 to my Citroën CX Diesel 1982 and gasoline-engined BX E from 1987.

Thanks Walt! I am beginning my reassembly now. By the way, I did all of the cutting on the pulley with a Dremel tool. Actually a black and decker wizard with the wand attachment and a 1.5" as well as a 1" cut off wheel. It might have taken a little longer, but I was able to get closer to the sump without worry of cutting into it. I had to bend open the pulley in places to get the tool deep enough to cut through the thicker middle section of the pulley but that was eased by the cutting to the holes the guys at the machine shop drilled in order to use a wheel puller on it.