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Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Posted by gonefishin (My Page) on
Sat, Sep 18, 04 at 12:55

I realize that I have already posted this on the lawn and garden forum, but it involves metal working, fabrication etc and might reach a different audience (or some different ones)here.

That is what they used to say on the old "Mission Impossible (or was it mission redicilous?) show when it was a T.V. seriese, before it became a big hit movie, is as folows:
The problem: I am gonna need a moldboard plow right after the first of the year to turn under mulched greens and compost in the garden. Oh, I could use ol Big Brutus, the man handeling 8 hp front tine tiller built like a Sherman tank, which I have done a few times, but that is too much like work, and I would prefer to flop it over upside down to bury the good stuff then tear it all up and mix it thoroughly, later when preparring the ground for planting. The only plow in my sole possession is one that is a three point hookup that worked on my old Sears tractor (undergoing restoration as I get time), before my oldest son "borrowed the hitch part to adapt it to use on his ATV at the deer lease to make food plots for deer clover, oats etc. to attract game to the area". I can't seem to get him to part with it and bring it back. I have another one, with lighter and smaller arms, but would prefer to fabricate something from scratch that might perhaps be simpler and more functional, and raise and lower with the actuator.
I know that there are design engineers on these boards that have been polite and kind enough to refrain from laughing too hard while I flounder around, nor to make comments about "amateur night at the local highschool gym" and I appreciate that. I have not turned my attention to this much until now, but it's time has come. Meanwhile, I think that my subconscious mind (which I think is considerably smarter than my conscious one) may have been running in the background like one of those insideous computer programs that you dont realize is there. This morning I woke up with non digital images of some materials that I have on hand, some 3 1/2 X 3/8ths" flat strap stock, some 1 1/2" wide, some 2 X 5/8ths" that fits nicely in a slot hitch, some quarter inch 2 X 2" angle, and the goodie of the stock pile, a tie rod off a truck languishing in one of the little metal barrells waiting to be used for something. The end swivels to any direction. I have an idea of how to combine all of them to come up with something that just might work. Time will tell, and I am eager to get crackin on it.
Meanwhile, perhaps there may be those out there that have some input, or better ideas. I will post three pictures below to show the challenge that I am facing, the plow is good, just looks rough, I have already freed up the coulter wheel and repacked it with grease!
Bill P.

Those stainless bars are where the end of the actuator will be, fully retracted. I discovered that what I thought was really tough stainless steel will not stick to that magnetic welding block it is laying on, it might be titanium, or perhaps kryptonite or something. Come to think of it, that may be why I have been feeling sorta weak of late! \":^)


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Just out of curiosity - how many times and in how many places are you going to post this thread.


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Ok, I'll be the bad guy here.

Why didn't you design your lift for a Brinly system or 3 point hitch in the first place?

It would seem that would open all kinds of doors for attachments.


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Why Ed ? It is easy to just scroll on down to a thread that you want to click on. Ed, you seem to be just a mite testy lately, is something wrong ?
JoeJ, I set it up initially to adapt the wheelhorse slot hitch to a sleeve hitch and have a dump bucket and a tooth harrow that works on that. I had an old Craftsman moldboard plow sitting around, the prices on ebay for them are pretty steep, so I wanted a way to use it and a couple of other things that I had left over like a middle buster or hiller, so this is what I came up with today.
Now I can use either by pulling a couple of pins and switching out the part that slips in the slot hitch and the bottom of the electric actuator (not sown yet).

Not quite finished and proped up.

A little more detail of the linkage

Oh well, perhaps this is an eliteist board and I am out of my league here.
Bill P.


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Oh hell. Knock it off. Nobody I know is an eliteist. Get the wedgie out of you butt. Nice work so far. A little complicated/busy for me but well thought out and executed anyway. If it works for you, use it. All of my rear attachments hook up via a sleeve hitch.

Let's assume your mouldboard plow is in the fully raised position. How long does it take for the actuator to lower it to the full down position?

ED


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Yes, chill man, it's easy for me to sit and see things different, but I can't be in your mindset when you built the hitch.

I do see 1 problem, I think, the flat stock across the front is going to take a beating. Maybe ad some structure to that.

Other wise your doing a great job.

I'm not familiar with the Wheel Horse hitch system, so I couldn't see where you were headed.

I just got a Brinly plow and can't wait to play with it.

Also, what is the round that goes from the front plate to the beam for?

And I learned, on Simple Tractors, that adjusting the plow is very critical. Perhaps KentT will come in and point you to the thread there for adjusting it.

Joe


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

O.K. Ed, nobody said electric actuators of the size and strength used on lawn and garden equipment would compete with full blown hydraulics (and excluding those used in aircraft and space technology), nor do they fall into the same category as far as installation with all them pulleys, pumps, control valves, plumbing or expense, so we are just talking about something adequate for the light applications, inexpensive and easy to install. No, the speed is not comparable to hydraulics, nor the strength. I would probably not need the plow in fully raised position unless it was in transport position rather than plowing, where it might be raised half way up to turn around. From fully raised to fully down I would guess 3 or perhaps 4 seconds, not too much time for a retired man, but more than adequate for my needs. I have had, and could have bigger equipment with the bells and whistles, but have no real need that would justify them now. This is just something to play with kinda like a hobby since I am retired and not needing to make a living with any equipment.
Joe, that flat stock across the front is 3 1/2 X 5/8ths" and most likely will withstand any stress that I put on it. If not, it would not be the first time that I went back to the drawing board. It would be relatively easy to add a couple of braces from the 2 X 5/8ths" bar that runs from the slot hitch to that plate. I will post some pics below of where I started from and the end result. When I bought this wheelhorse tractor, all that came with it was a mower deck and a little trailer. I had never seen the hitches or attachments for them and had no idea what they looked like or how they worked, but left to my own method of figuring it out and apply my ration of logic to it, I have managed to fabricate some things that work well and have enjoyed doing it.
I grew up on a farm, learned fairly early on to adjust plows, cultivators to leave dirt lapped up around the plants with hardly a blade of grass visable anywhere. I have spent some time with moldboard, or mouldboard plows, sometimes called "listers". They are kinda unique, need a little flexiability to do their "thing" and one of the main adjustments is that top adjustable link that relates to the plane of how the plow runs, preferably on plane atthe right depth. Nose down, it will try to dig too deep, nose up, it won't stay in the ground right. I have a link to that page about adjusting plows, but not much new there to me. I looked for a brinley plow, watched some on ebay go for $275.00 etc. and thought "why not make something so that I could use the old Craftsman 3 point stuff that I have laying around ?"
That black bar in the center is an old tie rod off a truck or something which will swivel just about any direction, while maintaining a firm hold on the plate in relation to the distance between the plow and the plate. A little bit of flexiability is necessary for the plow to "list" a little (thus the term lister used by some) to do it's job correctly, assuming the plane is adjusted correctly.
Thanks, I ask for it, and do appreciate the thoughts, critique and suggestions. See pics below.
Bill P.
This is the wheelhorse slot hitch my starting point:

Progressing to this:

And this:

Other attachments at work:

But first, I did some things with the hitch on the front to be able to use an angleing blade and dumping bucket similar to a front end loader and a few other things.

Pulling up fence posts:


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

uh gonefishin -

Lignten up a bit. All I said was that I used a sleeve hitch (manual) for all my rear attachments. I was just curious as to how long it took your actuator to move an implement from full up to full down.

Further, I said that I thought your hitch was well thought out and well executed. I do think it is a little complicted but that's just my observation and is not meant to be negative.

ED


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Huh, ok, have fun.


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

Well, the old moldboard plow cleaned up pretty good, and it works. I still have some tweaking, minor modifications and setting and adjusting to do but feel confident that it will serve my purpose to turn the compost under in the garden when the time comes. The down force will lift the rear of the tractor off the ground. I have a middle buster, or bedder that I will probably do next. As a side note, I had a very heavy load of logs on my little trailer, we disconnected it and sat the tongue on a cement block. After I took this plow off, I put the hitch ball on to move the trailer to a better place till I could make a place where I wanted to put the logs. It took two of us to unhook it, but I tried backing under the hitch then raised the hitch ball right up into the hitch, cleared the block, got off moved the block and latched the hitch down. Real handy and no strain at all.
Bill P.


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

OK I am new here and found this post by doing a google search so if there are any sore issues Sorry for bringing it back up.

Here's what I wanted to ask.

Does anyone know of an commercially available adapter that adapts sleeve hitch attachments to a cat.1, 3 point hitch?

Kinda opposite of what gonefishin did with his cat. 0, 3 point plow.

I have a few sleeve hitch attachments already at home and now I have a Kubota tractor with a category 1, 3 point hitch. Anyone know of an easy way to adapt them to work


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

daMadman - Welcome. I don't have an answer to your question, but try the link below to the gardenweb Lawn and Garden Tractors forum. You'll likely get some help there. Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lawn and Garden Tractors forum


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

I made one of those. First I made a 3pt to 2" receiver adapter. Then made the sleeve hitch to 2" receiver adapter. I had some little sleeve hitch forks I wanted to use on the 2210. The 2" reciver sleeve hitch is really simple to make and the 3pt to reciver is commercially available.

Good luck,

Kurt


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RE: Your challenge, - - should you choose to accept it2:

I am new to the garden tractor mods and was really interested in the front end loader that you have built...

I have NO welding experience and dont have the money to just go buy a commercial loader for my tractor...

how is the end loader working? is the actuator doing any good? and is it capable of the same rating in pull and push? I found actuators at a decent price but dont want to jump into it if its not worth it...

do you have more pictures of your loader or maybe progress pictures of the build?

I have a craftsman 15.5 horse manual transmission mower that I will beef up if I need to ...

any help or input would be great.... thanks


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