you need to do a general treatment with next watering ..fungicide and meal bugs can both leave a residue that looks like powder. Mites may have also infested so add that to the list when looking for a general treatment. I also suggest adding pumice to the well draining soil. Pumice( lava rock IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE) absorbs excess water and releases it when the soil around it dries along with micro nutrients (minerals) and last using a compost tea during the growing season instead of plain water. Composting for dummies OR Making Yummy Worm Dirt (YMD) 1 storage bin with lid -I suggest the bottom part of container be clear so you can tell how much moisture is in the container. drill holes in lid OR around the upper edge of the bin. if you keep it somewhere it will get rained on fill 1/4 way with soil that has lots of organic matter in it add banana peels, egg shells, old veggies, the skins of potatoes, can even add bread ( add everything except things with oil and meats or mushrooms) stir refuse into the soil or keep a small spade handy to turn the the soil. Add a small spade (like a bulb digging spade not shovel) of dirt every time a bowl is added. Note : I have an open air compost for yard clippings and such if you can't dig up worms to help you out- go to Walmart hunting and fishing section there is a frig that has several types or look online for a local place to buy worms any kind will do and toss them in (yes they should be alive when you put them in.) make sure the soil has a bit of moisture- Usually the food provides the moisture if it looks dry add a cup of water leave in a shaded spot in summer and protect from cold in winter. i have 3 bins in different stages The first I have not put in any waste in about 6 months ( just turn it every few days and check on the moisture). As soon as I see the worms have finished converting my soil's waste I will use it to make compost tea( I don't have to wait but I want to make sure I am not putting a fungi or mold into my plants) when it is ready for use I will take out worms( I don't want to make baked worm mud pies) and throw them in the other bins I will leave that bin in the hot sun (turning everyday) with the lid on for a week this will kill some bad bacteria (cause I use this on veggies too) Compost tea Three are lots of how to do online Simplest method buy a air pump(It blows air into water via clear tube from a small pump) in the fish section at Walmart the cheapest you can find is fine 1 gal of distilled water (some use rainwater---If it is fresh and from a lightening storm collected in a clean container, good- lightening infuses rainwater with O3 or ozone which can act like a fertilizer. side note it is better to use o3 fresh too. Ozone can acts as used as a water purifier in some water treatment plants instead of Chorine and can flash off over time like chlorine can... but you want to get its benefits so use it fast) 1 clean bucket 1 cheese cloth or old pillow case( from experience pillow cases with high thread count are useless here. you want the really cruddy pillow cases. The low thread count allows more filtration) filled and tied off with 3 to 4 cups of yummy worm dirt Add distilled( or lightning water), pillow case (tea bag), and the air hose to bucket ( position hose to bottom bucket under bag plug in motor and let pump go for a full 24 hrs. remove tea bag and empty dirt into a container with refuse and worms wash sack for next use and water cacti and succulents with YMD (compost tea) works on all plants so if you have extra feel free to distribute best to use fresh ---

Lirope is a plant typically used around here in places so dry, hostile or shady that nothing else will grow, like under dense trees where theres a lot of roots in dry shade. I wish I could get rid of whats invading my yard on the east side from the neighbors thick mess of it, actually nothing can get rid of it except manually digging it out, roundup won't even faze it, it'll kill off the tops but the roots just laugh. It even stands up to extended periods of drought with summers of 100 degree days for weeks and no irrigation all summer long. The tops shrivel up and look bad but the roots are fine. Any little piece of root left in the ground will sprout a new one, they spread via fleshy underground roots forming colonies, the roots are tenacious and will travel through hard clay or a barrier if there's any little crack and its hard to get rid of. I believe a completely buried lirope plant might die off on top but its roots would still grow and I'd even venture to guess one planted upside down would take off or if you just buried some roots in the ground, those would grow too. So, planting too deep isn't a problem. Point is, you don't need to molly coddle it.

It's in 50/50 perlite & C&S soil. It has aquarium gravel top dressing. Its compadre in a smaller, plastic pot was in the same shrivelled condition but returned to normal condition after a thorough watering at the same time:

Although I have never lived in one (and wouldn't want to), I have dealt with any number of HOA's in my capacity as a landscape designer. I have never encountered any issues with them signing off on my designs. Once they have the plan and plant list in hand, they can easily verify that nothing will exceed any height regulations or expand rampantly. I even had one with a 'must have lawn in the front garden' reg (ridiculous when the entry garden area is not much more than 150 square feet!) that agreed to its removal and replanting. I'd try it. Often when presented with a professional design plan, they cave :-) It is true that many HOA's have boards that consist of petty despots who like to throw their weight around to feel important and that some of the regs are arbitrary at best. My ex moved into one like that after we divorced and after butting heads a few times, got himself elected to the board and made the landscaping regulation changes he wanted and thought others would appreciate as well.