Not at all, and I don't remember writing anything that should leave anyone with that impression. If I had to identify the crux of the thread, it would be that to take advantage of highly aerated media and their sharp drainage, it's essential to start with a very large volume of coarse ingredients, and there should never be enough fine material to fill all the spaces between the large particles. When you add a marble/perlite) to a jar filled to the rim with sand or peat), aeration of the medium in the jar DECREASES, and continues to decrease as you add more marbles/perlite. It is only when you have added a volume of marbles/perlite) so large there is not enough sand/peat) to fill all the desirable pores between the large particles that aeration begins to INCREASE. This is called the "threshold proportion". Al

Phals can be easy to grow, but they were not easy for me to grow in either bark or sphag. Bark does not retain moisture effectively enough to suit them. Sphag can hold too much water for too long, especially when it becomes compacted in the pot and air can not move through it. The most foolproof and beneficial potting method I have found for Phals is to use fine to medium-grade coconut husk chips in an ordinary clay pot or orchid pot, either glazed or unglazed with openings cut in it. A plain plastic or glazed pot is okay, but not as good for maintaining an ideal air-moisture balance as one that can breathe. In any case, it seems that the best shape for a Phal pot is more or less the shape of an African violet pot. Squatty rather than tall in relation to width, and just large enough so that the roots fit comfortably in it. CHC retains water well, but it also holds air. It provides an excellent environment for Phal roots, which need air, but do not want to dry out between waterings. If a Phal has lost some of its roots, either from smothering or dehydration, it can quickly grow new ones after being potted in CHC. The specific frequency of watering a Phal in this medium would depend on the light, temperature, relative humidity, and air movement where the orchid is kept. Under ordinary indoor conditions with fluorescent light, I water mine every 5 to 7 days, usually with an organic fertilizer each time.

I have fibromalgia and I retain alot of fluid I cut out sugar completely and notice a big change,also I can not tolerate cheese I eat once a day good meal with chicken or turkey or Bison, vegetables, like fresh frozen asparagus,peas,green beans. fruits are apples, oranges,tangerines,grapefruit,red grapes. nuts almonds,walnuts. salads are fresh spinach,salmon,red canned or freshly cooked,don't eat pink canned salmon,only red,fish is good as long as it is ocean or raised locally. avoid canned tuna because of mercury. I drink a ton of organic fat free milk, i have no bone loss, or osteprosis how ever I can not tolerate any other organic or non organic dairy products they cause bloat and fluid retention. if I eat more than once a day I get sick.

It would seem to me that the diapers would pull moisture out of the soil mix, which is exactly the opposite of what you want them to do. And I doubt they would release any of that moisture easily and even less so to plant roots. And I cannot envision how they wouldn't adversely affect drainage, unless you chopped them up into little pieces. So, although I have not tested this personally, I would think they would produce a result that is the exact opposite of what you want. Why not just use the beads or gel? At least these get dispersed uniformly throughout the soil and plant roots can actually access the moisture. They still have an ability to compromise good drainage however.