So, here's where we're at. We met with our first contractor yesterday and the ballpark estimated cost was more than double what I was expecting. I had mixed feelings about the contractor. On one hand, he has a lot of satisfied clients, according to him, and his description of the process of how they go about a job, was very reassuring. He definitely seems to know what he is doing, is really well organized and pro active, we share similar philosophies, for instance, he suggested we might retain the floors and the windows. And he seemed very confident that what we want to do can be done. But - it's a lot of money. I am usually a very hands on person, as far as researching and monitoring any work done in the house, but a large remodel like this would be difficult and with this contractor, I feel I might not have to be as involved. So it is tempting. But - it's a LOT of money. So - I added together the value of our home, with the cost of the remodel and have been using that figure as a price range to look for new homes. In the communities we would want to look, right now there is nothing. Even homes that are higher priced than that, look like they would also need renovating. So, right now, I'm feeling stuck. So, maybe a pro/con list and a talk with all involved will have some benefit.

Hope my post isn't late, and that it's a little helpful. I used to live in Augusta, GA, but I wasn't an extensive gardener. If I had to start with what you have, I would first reference all of Walter Reeves' advice on The Georgia Gardener. He'll have great grass recommendations, especially for grass. I know you'll want to start soon because you're entering the spring rainy period when the grass can establish. Then, I'd figure out what others above have asked: How do I want to live in this house? For example, we have four kids. That means we spend significant time just driving in and out of our driveway. So, the driveway area gets attention because we see it all the time. It makes little sense in my opinion to put a garden bed in a place that "looks like a bed would go there" if it's in a spot you will rarely enjoy. We inherited a bed like that in this house, and it provides little pleasure, so it is being turned into a 100% pollinator bed (at least they'll enjoy it!). Do you use the front door or back/garage door? If you only use the back, the front door might not be an early priority for planting. Next, consider what you see from inside the house. Any place near Augusta means summer is spent mostly indoors in the air conditioning. Why have summer flowers if you never see them from your windows? Think about your views out the window during the hottest days of summer when planning. (We have the opposite problem. Summer is nearly perfect for being outdoors, but I have to think about my winter viewing.) One issue with lawn is getting rid of grass if you want to replace it with gardening beds. Certainly it's done all the time, but it's a pain, in my opinion. If you can decide how you want to live in your yard and where some future beds might be enjoyed, instead of planting grass there now, just turn them into a simple mulched area. No grass will grow to become a head ache to remove, and the beds wait for you whenever you're ready to plant. I have had some areas of my yard just mulched for over a year while i was waiting to plant things there. One reason mine were just plain mulch for so long was because I was killing grass and weeds, but I would have done just mulch to preserve the area for future planting just as readily. This technique also allows you to spread out the cost. You can put plants in slowly over time as you can afford, and as you decide what you want there. Lastly, if I lived in the south again, I'd plant these things in a heartbeat: Rosemary as a hedge: Why plant boxwoods when you can have a row of fragrant Rosemary? It is so beautiful with the fine blue-grey foliage. Camelias: So nice to have them blooming in January, which is when they bloomed for us in Augusta. Such a great color during the brown time of year. (Now, per my comment above, if only the blooming Camelia had been placed so we could see if from the house!) Gardenias: Oooo. Such an amazing smell. I miss the fragrances you can get from gardenias, wisteria, and honeysuckle. (But wisteria and honeysuckle are supposed to be invasive, I think, which makes me sad!) Lantana: Lantana is so nice they sell it as an annual up here. It's perennial for you, and the color variations are beautiful. I especially like 'Miss Huff,' a variety that Miss Huff herself discovered in Athens, GA. Butterfly bushes: Place them where you can see from a window and you'll get the pleasure of watching scads of butterflies feed. Southern Magnolia: Talk about beauty, fragrance, and structural interest. Such a winner! Crape Myrtle: Another beautiful small tree that produces flowers when the color is very welcome. Dogwoods: I know I'm in the south when I see dogwoods blooming everywhere!

While dealing with a Neck Fusion’s restrictions and starting Lawn Equipment, I have used a Heavy duty drill and a socket on a Mower and Trimmer. Such As, a ½” bolt with a socket to fit the Flywheel nut or starter. Three flat spots ground on the Bolt’s treads to prevent slipping. This has worked well for Equipment that has not been used regular or required more torque than I felt I should give. Such as, I have a 23” Etc MTD, Self Propelled I use only as a “Backup” to collect leaves. After sitting a year with fresh fuel and Compression Release you can feel the Pull! My “Close Neighbors” gave me a Few Pulls as I help them with Maintenance when needed! Fearing a Kick-Back, I initially welded heavy duty sewer cable to a threaded bolt to hold the socket. It twisted off w/o an effort. The solid bolt has worked well “being pushed off on start-up or priming for an easy hand starts. My Old School Edger that I donated came back to help me vs my string trimmers. It still started very Easy and I put the blower housing back on. My Wife gave it one easy pull and I was on my way Edging. I have not found a way to use a drill to Simply Start-Up my 2 Poland Hedge Trimmer’s Season. I could not see a direct drive location to get help from a drill. The Universal Pull Start in this post looks good except for the “Price”! I feel there are cheaper units or will be soon. I have gone to Electric Chainsaws at home Only from 70’s Poland’s S-25. I have an 18” Poland Wild Thing/Husqvarna Donated for labor that Works well. I’ll save it for my planed “12 inch Dia Work “Limit”. Have Some Safe Fun With Your Equipment And Chores

I don't really follow many of the rules when it comes to starting plants from seed indoors. I mix different mediums with a few containing fertilizer, I figured outside soils contain nutrients so why not a seed starting mix, and has worked quite well. My mix is usually made from seed starting medium (peat or coconut), potting soil (usually miracle gro) with fertilizer, vermiculite, and a little jobe's granulated plant food. (chicken manure). I tried using a little cow manure and compost but they were full of weed seeds and other potential problem so I use Jobe's now. I use capillary wicking mats raised off the trays sitting on PVC utility tiles I cut down and with legs made from PVC pipe. This makes watering so easy from below and only requires filling every week or so. I plant the seeds in 1 1/2"-2" cells and transplant into 3" and 4" pots when roots are large enough, and not based on the plants size. My goal is to plant outdoors when roots fill out the 2nd pots without becoming root bound so timing is critical. Root bound plants may never grow right and cause delays so if you're in doubt dump a plant into your hand and check the roots. Below are the components used for the wicking trays. Standard tray, the white wick mat's bottom, to the right is a mat right side up sitting on a tile. Exposed tile has the lines in it and the PVC legs are visible on the left. I'm not sure if you can get the capillary wicking mats locally. Below isn't the goal you want, this size should of been in 6" pots. This was from a few years back and I planted to soon. Using heat mats will germinate sooner than what is listed on the package. I didn't want the flowering yet and picked them off, and also slightly root bound which slowed establish after planting. I've had tomatoes germinate in 3 days using heat and wicking mats and over the years have adjust planting times. Peppers grow slower than tomatoes but go out last, so a start date should be selected for each item you want to grow. I also start my determinate processing tomato's like Celebrity and Roma later because of space, and prefer harvest later in the season for canning. I live 20 miles north of Minneapolis and have some seed packs I don't plan on using in the freezer. but not sure it's worth the drive. I try different seeds every year looking for the best (doesn't everyone?). You can shoot me an email at kevin9408@yahoo.com if interested. One tomato you may want to consider is Mountain Magic, you won't find them in stores and are starting to sell out online because they're so good and hardy. 300 - 400 tomatoes, 2 oz's in size and produce till they freeze out while other plants have turned to dust. They've been the most disease resistant tomato plant I've grown so far, almost fool proof. No more cherry tomatoes for me, I love these things and also grow them for 3 other people. I guess I could give you a couple of seeds but be warned if you become hooked the seeds cost around 50 cents each or in bulk $2700 per ounce!