No cycle in 4 months. I'm 42..why?
potato
22 years ago
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mary_md7
20 years agosherrylee1
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Toro Suzuki 2-cycle repair or replace
Comments (24)I've had my Toro Model 20684 GTS (Suzuki 2-stroke) Mower new since 1988 and I never even changed the spark plug until yesterday. I am loosing power when it needs it and I can't understand why. It still starts in 2 or 3 pulls, the compression seems ok by the way it feels when I pull the starter rope, no scoring observed thru the intake port, (I have not checked the exhaust port yet), I rebuilt the carb yesterday because the inside diameter of the fuel line was grossly deteriorated, causing particles of rubber to clog the inlet to the carb. Interestingly the manual states no ethanol should be used because damage to the fuel system can result, I wonder if this was the cause for the grossly deteriorated fuel line? (All the gas around here states up to 10% ethanol!). The only issue with the rebuild is the governor setting, I need to figure out how to set that so the idle is back to low rpm as normal, not it seems to be left to cut speed if you know what I mean. My mistake was not to mark the relative position between the governor shaft and the governor arm, (any help anyone?). Well it looses power when it needs it, higher grass, and it is so frustrating, It runs great under no load. I believe the lower crank bearing is going because I can hear a knock of late that is not normal, like the knock you may hear when the bag gets full and the blade is hammering away at a grass clog, but it knocks when it is clear. I wonder if there can be an air leak by the lower bearing that cause its lose of power, but I also believe an air leak will likely cause it to seize up, so I am stumped. Is there anyone out there who can help me out? It's been a great unit but I refuse to believe it has reached the end of its service life! Help!!!!!!!!!!...See MoreManually Starting Self Clean cycle on Electrolux Washer
Comments (15)I have a newer Electrolux machine and can't find the manual. I was looking here for how to run the clean cycle - even though it prompts me and I just have to hit start. I couldn't remember what to add and where. I finally found someplace that said to add a cup of chlorine bleach to the detergent cup (after removing the insert for powdered detergent). I did, then turned the knob to "clean machine" and hit 'start'. I'm not sure what all it did, but it was very different from a regular cycle. The water was really being sloshed around hard in the machine and there were lots of suds. Since I didn't add any detergent, I assume that is from the machine running the hot water and bleach through all the guts of the dispensers that don't usually get that much hot water (or any bleach) run through them. If I had an older machine, I'd never be able to remember all those steps and would have to look every time....See MoreFL Washer w/ short cycle & santi cycle suggestions
Comments (6)We have the Kenmore H3s (Whirlpool manufactured them for Sears). Love the Sani cycle. My motto is if the stain didn't come out in the Sani cycle, then its not going to come out. I don't have to use my motto often :-) However, I do not recommend the Kenmores/Whirlpool for their Express cycles. I do not find they clean anywhere near as well as the Normal cycle which is just about 10-15 minutes longer. I have heard Electrolux has the shortest cycle and I want to say some models offer the Sani cycle, but I don't know how well their short/express cycles clean. Hope this helps!...See MorePool heater cycles on and off incessently - how to fix?
Comments (15)I have a Pentair MasterTemp that I have been trying to troubleshoot for a year now. It calls for heat, heat starts for maybe 5-10 seconds, then stops, temp raises rapidly to 124 then slowly back down to 75 and cycles again doing the same thing over and over again. So far I have replaced the thermal regulator, igniter, thermistor and the bypass valve in the manifold. Today, I did a bunch of troubleshooting. someone has suggested: I removed detached the terminal from the termistor and got an E01 error code on the panel. I connected my old termistor and got a reading of 85 degrees. When I hold it, the temp slowly went up to 90. I then reconnected the terminal on the new terminstor and got 75 (I guess that's the water temp). When problem started happening last early last year, one of the thing I did was replaced a broken Jandy check valve between the heater and chlorinator. I also noticed that the flap wasn't opening even at 3450rpm and 20-25psi. Although, there's strong water coming out of the 2 return lines. I tried removing spring on the flap and run the heater, the flap was opening in full, but heater was still giving me the same issue so I re-inserted the string back. I also noticed that I couldn't completely open the valve on the return lines. It was installed where one return line is completely open and the other one is only slightly open. So, I opened the 3-port valve and adjusted it where the 2 return lines are fully open. I run the heater and this time it did something different. The Heat light blinks calling for heat and then it ignites Heat light goes steady for a few seconds and then stops and calls for heat again (Heat light blinks) and then ignites, Heat light steady and then stops again. It kept doing this several times and then sometimes the temp will start counting up rapidly and slowly counts down to the current temp and cycles again. Note: when the opened the manifold last winter to replace the bypass, the manifold and the heat coils have no signs of scales. I only found 1 small stone stuck inside where the bypass is. So I thought that was causing the problem. In case there is blockage in the heat exchanger, how do I fix that? Thanks for your advise. Here are the video links. 1st one is the initial issue. The 2nd is after modified the 3-port valve to the return lines. https://youtu.be/OaYfnEbjAFU https://youtu.be/OLxQI4lA1eg...See Moreeileenlaunonen
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