We had side-of-the-vanity TP holders in our old house -- convenient and never a moment's trouble. Easier option: a freestanding holder: Personally, we've been having trouble with our on-the-wall TP holder. We removed it /smoothed over the space on the wall and replaced it with a free-standing holder shaped like a giraffe. I like it, and it can easily hold two rolls.

42" for a one-person work aisle 48" if two or more people will be working in the aisle 36" is for walkway, not a work aisle And remember that aisles are measured to/from the items that stick out into the aisle the farthest. In your case, the refrigerator on one work aisle and the range on the other work aisle. The aisle behind the island is a walkway because there are no workspaces, appliances, or cabinets. However, if you plan seating at the island (I don't think you are based on how shallow the island is), then you need at least 44" since traffic will be passing through (48" would be much better). Seating may be problematical for the peninsula idea, depending on what is directly behind the peninsula. If a table, then you need 60" b/w the peninsula and table. If you're open to other ideas (and I think you are), consider some of the suggestions made by others such as Mama Goose, Apple_Pie, HerbFlavor, Marc Colo (!), and others. FYI...counters usually overhang cabinets by 1.5", so the depth of the counters on the perimeter i2 25.5". If you are getting inset, then 25" is the typical depth of counters. That also means the island will most likely be 27"D with standard depth cabinets (24"). Consider shallower cabinets in the island to gain more aisle space. E.g., 21"D cabinets will gain you 3", 18"D will gain 6".

I find the drive for higher and higher ceilings baffling. I have never yet felt cramped in a room with 8' ceilings. These were standard for much of last century. Many (most?) of us probably grew up with 8' ceilings. Anyone living in a tract-built home from before 2000 probably still has 8' ceilings. And the average height for men in the U.S. is 5' 9". So unless you play in the NBA, you'll probably have between 1.5' and 3' clearance above your head while standing. (Anecdotally, my 6'4" husband just looked at me like I was insane when I asked him if he'd ever wished we had higher ceilings. :) ) If you're making decisions strictly on an aesthetic basis, then I'd say optimal room height depends on the use and size of the room. A large room that you want to feel grand and impressive would probably benefit from a high ceiling, but it runs the risk of feeling cold and exposed. An area that you want to feeling cosy (e.g. a reading nook) could have a lowered ceiling. Sara Susanka talks about ceiling heights extensively in The Not So Big House. Higher isn't necessarily better. A 9' standard will likely do you just fine in most areas of your home.

Like the idea of opening up the floor plan as much as possible but it should be noted that there is a lot more solid wall for overhead cabinets on the right side of the family room which is adjacent to the mud room -- and, therefore, the back door for carrying out trash -- than there is in the dining room. The sink could be in an island facing the patio door and the kitchen would then get every bit as much light in the front/entry end of the family room as it would if moved to the dining room. Also, if you're rebuilding the kitchen, a lot of lights could be added. Not a pro. Just some thoughts: A home is a huge investment ... so, instead of giving positive or negative reviews of a specific plan, you might consider suggesting to the prospective buyers that they talk to each other about what spaces they "need" and what spaces they "want" -- and why before they go house hunting ... certainly before they commit to buying a home. Infrequently used rooms/spaces can often just collect clutter and, effectively, become storage rooms -- when having a home with more closet storage or attic storage or basement storage or garage storage might actually be a lot more practical. Most people I know rarely use their "formal" living room if they also have a family room. Most people I know rarely use their "formal" dining room if they also have a breakfast room. Prospective home buyers should also ask how long they intend to live in the home, which matters as well. ... If there are or will be children attending school, where the good schools in the area are also matters as does convenience to employment and grocery shopping. ... Unless on the main living area there is a "bonus" room (with a full bath large enough for a walker or wheel chair as well as closet space for two) that could initially be used as an office/study or a family room or child's play room or game room or a craft room or a guest room, for now, but later could also be used as a master bedroom (such as when the owners' arthritic knees say they should no longer climb the stairs each day), then the home isn't practical as a "forever" home. ... IF a home has HOA fees that can increase annually, that needs to be considered along with other budget considerations -- along with the "rules" that can control pretty much anything the homeowners can and cannot do with their own home with regard to porches or decks or landscaping ... just about everything.