We have the Kenmore H3s (Whirlpool manufactured them for Sears). Love the Sani cycle. My motto is if the stain didn't come out in the Sani cycle, then its not going to come out. I don't have to use my motto often :-) However, I do not recommend the Kenmores/Whirlpool for their Express cycles. I do not find they clean anywhere near as well as the Normal cycle which is just about 10-15 minutes longer. I have heard Electrolux has the shortest cycle and I want to say some models offer the Sani cycle, but I don't know how well their short/express cycles clean. Hope this helps!

was there some hill is really funny.... as there where some GREAT hills getting to the corner where I was to meet up with the rest of the group. Then, just prior to the lunch stop the next group of hills... and yes, I hadn't been riding enough to do this trip in one swoop. This is why I had planned to do 4 days, out of a 2 day trip. The knee is giving me no indication of any problems this morning. I thought, just taking a whole day off from riding any measurable distance as well as walking all over the place would fix it... and it looks like it did. Just look at the picture, you can see the hills.

I hadn't give thought that you might think I was infering dishonest about cleanleness until A Air commented on taking people at their word. Truth is I've lost count of how many times contractors and employees told me a coil was clean when it wasn't. Their warn't lying,they simply didn't see dirt until I showed them how to make certain. I did the same until wiser men showed me different. I still haven't mastered how to perdict what third parties ( mfgr,dealer and distributor in this case) will do. Hopfully you don't need to go that far so let's do what we can on our own before finding out. I just believe this is well worth persuing since it cost's nothing and will do no harm. I can't say the same about tapping into sealed systems. Manys a perfectly charged system has been contaminated,caused to begin leaking or worse when needlessly opened up. As a rule of thumb,as compressors get smaller, sensitivity increases across the board and skill to deal with it become's increasingly neccessary. If not useful on this unit,I have some tips for confined coils. Adapt as the need arises. I carried mirrors including one similar to those dentists and hygeniests use. It's sometimes amazing to see what's around corners. Much quicker than dissassembly only to find everything ok. A garden sprayer will handle most coil wash jobs but in addition I carried pressurized containers with different coil washes inside. I often prefer pushing dirt back out in direction it came from. A 1/8" soft copper pipe with spray head can be snaked into back side of coil and using high pressure liquid or plain air ( depending on whether pressure tank is upright or inverted) can drive dirt out to side I can see. Eventhough you can't see wand and spray head,the spray can be directed by watching dirt come out side which is visiable. I figure this can save tech time and do better work when dealing with M-splits. If a wet vac hose with 90* floor tool can be manipulated to catch dirt and liquid as it's expelled,you can do 1st class on central system coils. Bigger spray head,more water and more pressure. I would use no rinse evap coil cleaner on this ms but it usually only come's in gallons. I have no objection to diswashing or laundry detergent if that's all one has. If you have a digital thermometer that reacts within secounds of temp change, and an amp meter,do this. Watch and record running temp and amps. Do amps increase above rated run amps before compressor cut's off, do temps progressivly change as amps change and other readings. Since I've lead us this deep,I should at least say why I think this could be air flow related. A freeze up caused by low refrigerant can be expected to start iceing at point where it enter's coil then progress until air flow begin's to drop then continue progressivly covering coil in turn progressivly restricting air flow. That's a clean coil with inadiquate refrigerant. A properly charged coil drop's temp rather even across whole coil. A properly (and to a degree, inadiquate) charged coil with inadiquate air flow from dirt restriction or too low fan can be expected to frost then shortly ice across intire coil surface. Anywho,this will be one less thing tech need's to do if one must be called. Your amp-temp chart might also prove helpful.

Don't know. I've had three different brand new air conditioners do this to me. Whynter, GE, and Toshiba. Based on BTUs, all were oversized (10,000-12,000 BTU ASHRAE) based on specs. But based on how poorly the portables cool, none did near as well as the 5000 BTU window unit that was too noisy for the neighbor. Maybe air pressure or ability to suck air into the room? But the Whynter was dual hose.