I have about 35 roses in containers overwintering in my garage this winter which is about my norm. You would be surprised at how much difference the temps are between the garage and the outside temps. I make sure my container roses have frozen soil before putting them in the garage and then when it snows I put many shovels of snow on top of them in the garage to provide moisture and a blanket of insulation that keeps the temps even more level. I have never lost any roses overwintering in my unheated garage this way. I checked on them today and find I still have many of them that the leaves are still soft and healthy green despite the bitterly cold below zero temps which we have had many of this year. Come early Spring I bring them all out and strip off the foliage and prune any dead, weak, or sickly looking canes--which ususally isn't very much, and then they are pretty much ready to go for the next growing season. I always have roses in my garden on the shovel prune list and it is at this time I dig them up and transplant roses from the freshly prepared Pot Ghetto plants into the vacated garden spots. The roses are usually still quite dormant, but will readily wake back up as the days lengthen and warm. The main key to successfully overwintering roses anywhere is to have healthy roses going into the cold weather and then providing needed moisture during the winter to prevent them from completely drying up. Good Luck with your roses, John

As others have said, a drying agent, like Jet Dry or Rinse-Aid, is a must. Running the hot water in your sink before starting the dishwasher so that hot water is in the pipes as the dishwasher begins to fill. Finally, cracking open the door once the drying cycle is complete helps as well so that the steam can escape. I've had a Miele since 2015 and, at the time after reading reviews, the reason I purchased it was because it automatically cracks open the door at the end of the drying cycle. I've never had any drying issues with it. At the time it was the only dishwasher that opened the door automatically but I believe more brands do that now.

I designed my house and was active in reviewing the contractors recommendations based on the Manual J analysis. When all is said and done the old adage of 12,000 btu (a ton) for every 500 sq ft of floor space is pretty accurate, except I would modify that for any known major variable that you know would cause a problem. In my case, I had shade trees all around so there's less direct sunlight load, but I have 9' ceilings which is more air to condition. My split system has a 13 SEER that was sort of cutting edge for 1996, a single speed scroll compressor. The blower is a variable speed one, which is key to my system because I have a humidistat installed (inexpensive). During the heat of the S. Texas day it will run at higher speed for maximum cooling due to the heat load, but since it runs for like 12 minutes, humidity is totally wrung out. In the pre-dawn hours when the humidity is like 85%, but temp is 72, it doesn't run much cause there's no heat load. When it does run, the humidistat tells it its getting humid in here so it runs at slow speed so it wrings out the air, slowly getting to the selected temp setting. I have the humidistat set for like 63%, so if it achieves 64% or higher it automatically shifts to high speed. I like it alot. Last week it was 97 outdoors, the AC ran like 12 minutes then was off 18 minutes. Before you select your SEER, you should understand that number directly relates to your energy bill. Ex: Since a 16 is 33% more efficent than a 12 (diff of 4 divided by 12), an electric bill that would be $100 with a 12, will now be $67 with a 16 (of course a 16 costs more to buy, but rebates/tax credits help). Good luck.

Hi 80810snut, I didn't see any benefit to the commercial machine given our usage: we wanted drying because we unload the dryer into our cabinets. The pro-speed cycle plus drying time = express cycle time on the residential machine. So, for our dishwasher there was no difference in timing on a program that included drying. Yes, 2K vs. 5K was also a big consideration. Even if I was saving 20 min. per day, I wouldn't pay the extra 3K given how we do dishes usually: after dinner and don't unload until after an hour of TV, so an extra 10-20 minutes didn't seem to make any difference and the cost is astronomical. In a commercial setting with continuous use the extra $$ makes sense, but we're usually doing 1 load a day, maybe 2 max except for special occasions. For special occasions (lots of cooking) I can do an express short load in 23 minutes... that's 4 minutes longer than the equivalent load on the 8083. I decided I could deal with an extra 4 minutes *shrug*. IOW 3K>4 minutes. Also, repairs: I figured if anything went wrong I would be able to more easily find residential repairpeople who knew the residential units. Hope the above helps.