Over the past nine years I have purchased and paid for installation of 26 Pell Designer series windows and a patio door. I was replacing Rockwell windows which had rotted, warped, leaked and were clouded between the glass. The windows I purchased from Pella are aluminum clad outside and wood trim inside - all casements. I purchased the Pella rol-screens when available and mini blinds between the glass, also when available. But here are the significant problems. Yesterday I discovered the interior wood trim on the portion of the window that cranks out is peeling off. On a guest bedroom window that is used rarely I discovered the trim is completely off. That caused me to inspect the other windows and discovered 16 windows in total are peeling from 2 inch to 8 inches starting from the top and working down. Some of these windows have been in as briefly as 5 years, some up to 9 years. This is the final straw in a series of disappointments. The first disappointment was cosmetic - the realization that I could not get the mini blinds on all sizes. So the cohesive, clean, contemporary look I was striving for is unattainable. The second was quality - 22 of the windows have blinds. The blinds are poorly constructed - some of them do not drop all the way to the bottom of the window - this appears to be a matter of mismatched tolerances, a manufacturing problem. About half of them have the protective piece installed over the string mechanism falling off, a materials/adhesive problem. Some of them have warped blinds, blinds that have never been outside the glass are distorted. On these "older" blinds, the strings are a hassle - they blow between the window and its frame and they tangle, and washing the window around the hooks provided to wrap the string is cumbersome. Which is the third frustration - when Pella introduced their new design without strings, they left all the earlier customers without an opportunity to upgrade. And I repeatedly asked for an upgrade plan. Finally I reached the phase of replacement where we were installing tall narrow windows, and then I discovered Pella doesn't offer true casements. The benefit of casements is that you can wash both sides from the inside - but not with Pella. Pella provides you a casement window with a butt hinge which means you are (I am) dragging out the ladder and buckets to wash these windows from the outside - and yes, blinds are not an option for these windows either. Oh, and to lock them requires multiple mechanisms. After being surprised when the first set of windows arrived with butt hinges, I waited four more years for Pella to get with the program. Finally I replaced the remaining nine windows with Andersen windows. Should have done that in the first place - the Andersen windows have a great strong hinge, open for ease of washing, have a single mechanism to lock the tall windows (vs multiple on the Pella), have more glass for light and view than the comparable Pella windows, and were clad by Andersen to match my existing investment in Pella. No, I am not employed by Andersen - I am just tired of being ripped off by supposedly credible companies like Pella. Pella got over $50K of my money and I got a series of problems and disappointments.

I do not have a circuit diagram for your vehicle, so can only speak about generalities. First, most systems of that era required that all lamp loads in the blinker circuit be present for the blink operation to function properly. Are you certain that all signal lamp filaments are good? That's both ends of the truck, front back. There may be one or two lamp bulbs in the tail light. If its one, then it will have two filaments, one brighter than the other. The low wattage one is the running/parking lamp and the brighter one is the brake light. If you have 2 bulbs, there is a variety of combinations possible. Usually, one bulb will have two filaments and the other one, one filament. If you find that all lamps are good - Test for continuity. At times, a broken filament can be hard to detect visually. - then loook elsewhere for the problem. If all lamps are good, then the next common suspects are the blinker relay, and a control module if it has one. The next level is circuit continuity problems and this can encompass a large number of possibilities, and on older vehicles may be caused by corrosion or broken wires. In the northern tier of states, corrosion from road salts is a problem. Examine all connectors and grounds in the signal lamp circuits. The blinker switch and connections at the end of the blinker lever are suspect also.

It could be mouse ear chickweed but the picture is insufficiently clear to tell for sure and appears to be upside down.

Spots on the plant with leaves that have blackened margins usually indicates bacterial speck. Or crispy margins could be drought stress, overwatering stress, too much fertilizer, etc. But whether it's septoria or speck, the response should be the same, and it's what you're doing. Copper is a good option because it helps with both bacterial and fungal issues. Neither disease will be cured once it sets in, but the pruning and spraying can slow down the disease and keep your plants alive and producing for the rest of the season. Also, there may be other reasons for your blossom drop issues. What "tomato food" are you using, and how much are you giving? Your plants do look a little pale, although that could just be a photography issue. And what is your location? How have the weather conditions been for you lately?